Hi all. Just had a truetrac installed in the ifs d30 (also called a super30). Part# 912A585, bought from amazon for about $425. Took standard d30 carrier bearings.

I pulled the front diff myself and found that just like others had mentioned on this forum, I had to cut the two outer differential mount bolts that hit the lower control arms to get the diff out. I bought m12 x 1.75 x 80mm flange class 10.9 bolts, length fit perfectly. What you should know is that the mounts use bolt/nut combos so you can reuse the nuts or buy new ones. Make sure you keep the diff vent tube valve that clips to the shock bolts, they are no longer available anywhere.

I had to take out: battery, battery box, air box, brakes, spring/shock assemblies, engine shield, both front hubs, separate the upper and lower and tie rod ball joints, and of course the axles. Axles just pop out with a bit of gentle prying.

I have 242 select trac tc, I will report back on steering and traction during 2hi, 4ft, 4pt operation once I have it installed in the next day or so.


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Install went good, No problems.

Immediate 2hi steering result is that the wheel has about 10-15% more weight and demand to return to center off turns. Hard lock to lock u turns just start to engage the bias in the lsd - you can hear the tires scrubbing just a bit but doesn’t bind or cause any issues. High speed turning is nearly unaffected. Seems to track straighter on highway.

During 4pt the steering is about 20-25% heavier than an open front but I haven’t done extensive testing yet.

The good news is that it works great! Seamless traction/engagement and grip. Has not affected mpg at all. No steering wheel vibrations.


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Okay update: had front alignment checked, front right toe was out and tires were getting a little unevenly cupped. Rotated tires and alignment fixed and most of the perceived increased front lsd steering wheel feedback has disappeared. Now front truetrac is truly invisible to the point I’m not even sure it’s working. Which is perfect.

Upon doing a bit of off-roading and “testing”, I was curious as to how much extra grip I had with the rear of locker engaged. And then it got stuck locked, and the wife and I had a panic moment 30miles from home. Supposedly you can just “pop out” the rear cable of the ox locker and insert emergency drive away kit, but to my surprise you will need a flare nut 3/4” wrench to access the recessed cable nut in the housing. WTH! Luckily I was able to get it out of lock after some doing but that highlighted how unprepared and unfamiliar I had been with the locker, and honestly in retrospect I might have just done a rear truetrac and call it a day. So then began the journey of testing and readjusting the cable. Anyways, now I have it figured pretty well, but it’s not a “hit the switch and forget about it” operation - my stupid previous thought. To get the locker to reliably engage and disengage you need to make small /slight turns while going less than 5 mph to help alignment of locking pins. Same after wheeling to reduce axle stress - even with actuator releasing, it still won’t disengage without a tiny bit of help which makes perfect sense when you see how it’s put together. I also changed from Dino 90w140 to synthetic 75w90, which seems to greatly help things align as well.

Now I have a true 4wd!


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Oh one last thing about truetrac: Detroit recommends non lsd additive Dino oil. They say that synthetic oil which most of the time comes with lsd additive is too slippery and causes a small reduction of bias (lockup) of the truetrac. I installed full synthetic 75w90 with lsd additive and I’m perfectly happy with result and considering it’s a front lsd, I’m also okay with a reduction in bias in to keep things more dynamic.


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Great write up.. This is on my list to do...Someday...

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06 Renegade, 265-70-16 Duratracs on Moab's/OMF, RL sliders ,roof rack, On board air, JBA-UCA, adjust-a strut, Rear-OME 948 two uppers ,Sensatrac shocks, Boiler rad. skid, Mopar/4x guard skid,Terra-flex 4:1,HD cooling,more lights, gauges. ARB/Warn, Mudds Rear Bumper.

Did fairly extensive testing this weekend in snowy conditions while running ft 4wd
and tt up front. The amount of additional traction is just... remarkable. With the lsd up front I had absolutely no issues going up 10-15% inclines in snow and ice where previously it was a little touch and go. The slippery the conditions the more you could feel a pull to center in the steering but the kJ tracked straight and true. At highway speeds in ft 4wd steering felt just a bit heavier but no unstable vehicle maneuvers. Saw another 4wd kJ have to run chains on the rear while I just blasted around like it was nothing. Then again they probably didn’t have select trac ft 4wd.


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Check out the Redline 75W-90NS variety of gear lube. It doesn't have the friction modifier added. That's what I run in my rear Truetrac.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Motul 300 is a good one too !

Most European gear oil brand have a version with or without friction modifier of their gear oil.

Different story with the U.S. Brands as most have it in with no mention of it. Nice to see Redline offering this product!