Hey all, Just bought my 2006 Liberty 'Renegade'.
But I'm having a hard time with lifts.. Yes, I have creeped about 30 threads regarding lifts, but have yet to find an answer to my issues.

I bought a 2.5" Daystar Lift. And the strut kept hitting the body before I could get close to the LCA. So I contacted Daystar, they told me that the 2.5" Lift does NOT fit on the Renegade edition.. So I then purchased a 2" Lift that bolts onto the top of the strut between the body.

I have attempted to install this on 3 occasions, thinking I overlooked something or I missed a key detail. No luck.
The lower strut perch, seems to be absolutely crushing the axle on the driver side ( I have not even attempted Pass Side).
Am I missing something here? I have slacked the LCA camber bolts so much that they are literally just dangling below the vehicle.

Is the Renegade different ?? All part numbers seem to be the same regardless of Trim level?

Any help would be great.

Congratulations on your new to you Liberty. These are great little jeeps that will surprise you if done right. Now with saying that, you should of went with a spring lift vs. a spacer lift. The coil springs from the factory were weak from the beginning and will sag causing a very rough ride (coils will stack when compressed). Do a search on here and the topic has been covered to death.

Now, to get your coilover assembly back in, remove the clevis fork from the coilover assembly and you should be able to slide the assembly up through the upper control A arm and loosely install the nuts just enough so it does not fall out. Then install the clevis fork onto the bottom of the coilover assembly so that the axle is between the clevis arms. Now the fun part, with a ratchet strap, wrapped around the clevis arms and anchored to the passenger control arm, pull till tight. With a floor jack, raise the lower control arm, axle, spindle assembly up till you can aligned clevis bolt holes with the lower control arm clevis bushing. You may need to pull in the clevis arms a bit in order to get the hols lined up. Install lower clevis bolt and the install the upper control A arm.

Tighten all bolts to the FSM specs (don't forget about the clevis bolt that holds the strut assembly) and any bolts that have a rubber bushings should be tighten with the full vehicles weight on the ground. And go get a front in alignment ASAP.

Lots of info in these pages and over in the other KJ forum, just use the search function and I guarantee someone has had a similar problem. Enjoy the KJ

_________________
05 CRD; Rebuilt top end w/ARP studs, EGR delete, SEGR, 3.7L HD cooling fan, Samco hoses, in tank pump, JBA coil overs & control arms, KK clevis fork, 1/2" cradle drop, 1/4" motor mount lift, WJ rear upper trilink w/WW mount, WJ lower control arms, 4:10 gear, front/rear air lockers, ARB bumper, Rock Lizard sliders/roof rack, Mod T-stat

^x2 that method has worked for me a couple times. OP, not sure where you are located, but if you want to try another option, I have a cheap suspension lift for sale right now that may work for you.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=92076

_________________
2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax