I have an 02 Sport that I purchased when they first showed up in 01. Pretty much the only lifts available on the market were the OTT spacers. I installed it before everyone started having real issues and mine doesn't go offroad. I've always had the banging issue at full drop but that usually just happens over big speedbumps. I am looking to take care of this but am not exactly sure of a couple things.

1. How does the OTT spacer cause this issue when other lifts do not?
2. Even if you replace with an aftermarket longer strut wouldn't the upper A-arm be at the same angle, as the OTT, and still hit the strut? (I'm guessing this is the frankenlift.)
3. Would replacing the A-arm with a longer one like http://www.jeepinbyal.com/files/index.php be better, though more expensive?

I just don't see how any other lift would keep the a-arm off the strut. Please explain.

Thanks for the help.

The Frankenlift comes with a little piece of plastic attached to each spacer in the strut assembly which cushions the upper control arm contact area at full droop. This prevents damage to the coil spring, the control arm, and it's ball joint. I don't hear anything at full droop

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2003 Limited, Silver - L.O.S.T. # 068957 Rockies
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2006 Kawasaki KLR650

So the Frankenlift replaces the OEM strut with a longer one to gain the lift. So how is this so much better than the OTT everyone cuts on. All they did was add a bumpstop to stop the banging. How would a longer strut help since the tire can still only drop, or bottom out, just as far with either.

So if I bought the front end Frankenlift to stop the banging, all I would be adding is just a plastic stop with a strut I really don't need. I've got the same height already by using the OTT. Seems kinda odd that everyone cuts on the OTT just because it doesn't have a stop. But let me guess that no one has yet made a stop (for the OTT) to attach to the OEM strut, wouldn't that just take care of the problem?

If I've missed something else along the way let me know.

02kjsport,
this is from the Fabrication Section.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5379

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Slightly modified Lt. Khaki 3.7 2004 LTD 4X4. Purchased new 8/6/03.
What I don't have....A Mag light mounted to my seat.
Original Old L.O.S.T. #000354

Nick's Pics & Mods click here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/531173
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The frankenlift does not add a longer strut. It is still essentially stock length (maybe .25" difference or something) They add a different top plate to the strut which effectively moves the upper mounting point for the strut (not the spring) lower. Think of it as inverting the stock strut top plate. This allows a little more droop (only until it bottoms out) and relieves some of the pre-tension from the additional 1.5" in-strut spacer.


I'm not 100% sure on the problems the OTT lift cause because I've never had it, but I can speculate from looking at the design. The OTT lift adds a rather larger over the top strut spacer. This adds two problems.

First it effectively moves both the spring and strut upper mounting point lower, resulting in lift and increase droop. However, the spacer they add is too large. This results in a banging/clunking sound when the upper control arms hits the springs. The frankenlift uses, a rubber square bumpstop on the spring to prevent the contact.

Second issues arises from the soft stock springs and the low placement of the upper strut mounting location. This cause you bottom out the strut considerably more often. This results in more banging and wearing out the strut quickly. The frankenlift could have similar issues, but a heavier spring is used, it has internal bumpstop inside the strut assembly, and the upper mounting point of the strut is down as much.


You could add two bumpstop to each side to solve alot the problems. An upper and lower bumpstops. First the lower bumpstop is the little piece of polyurethane you wrap around the bottom of the spring. Second, you need to add upper bumpstop as depicted in the post Nick linked too. This upper bumpstop will prevent the strut from bottoming out. However, with the addition of these bumpstops (especially the top one) you start to limit wheel travel.

I appreciate all the help and now have a much clearer understanding, thank you.

But of course I have one last question. Mine is pre-lowered with 265/75/16's (BFG AT KO), if I convert to Frankenlift on front will those tires still fit? Guessing that since I'll be swapping out my slightly longer struts that I'll drop down to where 245's are as big as I can go. If not what would be my next option? Maybe the new arms I mentioned before? Tires will surely run me more than the new arms.

Man I hate the thought of getting back in there to swap the lift out.