Mid-Level Set-Up?

dark_luther · **Posted:** Mon Jun 12, 2006 9:33 pm

I have an 'o3 KJ, stock everything. It's my commuter - and I would also like to upgrade for limited off-road use. I am in "Libby Limbo" because the frankenlift / etc. / maximum set-up looks like too much hassle and $$ down the road (unless of course the lift and suspension last longer if you aren't climbing hard) ... and on the other hand, cheap spacer lifts seem like more problems than they're worth. Is there a middle ground anywhere? Is there any way to get more trail ready w/o creating never-ending suspension problems?

Whatever help you can give me is more than appreciated. [/b]

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Mon Jun 12, 2006 9:39 pm

How hard/often do you plan on wheeling? WHere in Cali are you and have you wheeled in Cali before?

dark_luther · **Posted:** Mon Jun 12, 2006 9:45 pm

I'm in Dana Point (OC) for now, but will be headed back home to CO w/in a month. I haven't gone at all since I got my kj, but I hope to start this summer. I look to go monthly and only on intermediate trail once I get some kind of set up.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Mon Jun 12, 2006 9:54 pm

So far The best long term setup is the Frankenlift. Sure it might cost a little more now but it will be worth it. I have daily driven and wheeled mine now for over a year 1/2 and still love it. It soaks up everything I throw at it.

Skyjump136 · **Joined:** Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:50 pm **Posts:** 1633

Take a look at Rusty's COIL lift as well (not spacer). There aren't many problems reported and it performs very well at a fair price.

dark_luther · **Posted:** Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:17 pm

I'm not particularly mechanically-inclined - and I would definitely have someone put the lift on for me. The irony is I would pay (according to some quotes) about $400-500 for an install. That puts Rusty's at 900-1000$, and, since I'm near All J's I can get their lift for 800 and an install for 300, so 1000-1100$ for a frankenlift. Which is the better value? I'm looking for the least amount of long-term problems. Also - it seems like their are additional parts (a arms etc.) that people are saying they need to accompany their lifts. What else do I need to purchase to have a problem free set-up?

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:32 pm

No doubt I would pay the Little extra for the Frankenlift! You will love it in the long run. I have been running factory original LBJ's and stock upper control arms on my Frankenlift w/ No problems. I will soon be moving my Frankenlift to my wifes KJ but will be upgrading to Moog lower ball joints and Al's upper arms mainly so I can grease the ball joints. You can run the FL no problem on stock parts but at a minimum I would add in a set of Moog lowers for peace of mind.

PitViper · **Posted:** Tue Jun 13, 2006 5:40 am

what he said

The only problem i have with my lift is the squeaky bushings. The silicone spray trick don't last long. I'm going to try the spray grease soon.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:20 am

PitViper wrote:

what he said

The only problem i have with my lift is the squeaky bushings. The silicone spray trick don't last long. I'm going to try the spray grease soon.

On the sway bar? If so, Drill through the bushing retainer/clamp and bushing and install a zerk fitting. Then grease em up!

dark_luther · **Posted:** Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:29 pm

Thank you. This has been very valuable help. I'm curious to ask you guys (and I've seen it discussed a little bit in another thread) about the OME supsension replacement offered by rocky road. Does this system have the potential to cause just as many LBJ, A arm troubles and alignment issues? Or is it generally safer? It seems like it would be safer because you get less total lift and are replacing parts rather than adding & replacing them. Am I thinking about this right? It also got me wondering about another alternative, couldn't I just march into a dealership and tell them to give me the best spring/strut/suspension system available for my model? That seems like it would give me the least amount of "lift" (no lift technically), but cause the least problems. Lend me your wisdom!

nolakj · **Posted:** Tue Jun 13, 2006 4:10 pm

dark_luther wrote:

...couldn't I just march into a dealership and tell them to give me the best spring/strut/suspension system available for my model? That seems like it would give me the least amount of "lift" (no lift technically), but cause the least problems. Lend me your wisdom!

....sure why not. You could also give me the $1000 bucks to come meet you and kick you in the groonies. You might as well get something tangible for your hard earned money.

dark_luther · **Posted:** Tue Jun 13, 2006 4:17 pm

....sure why not. You could also give me the $1000 bucks to come meet you and kick you in the groonies. You might as well get something tangible for your hard earned money. [/quote]

That's a generous offer ... but I'll pass just this second. You're right, though, about the dealership idea. What about the OME suspension change-out?

Fouros · **Posted:** Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:25 pm

The OLD MAN EMU system is VERY good, you wont have as much lift as the franken lift But the ride is exellent, you have the choice of 3 different springs fron and rear depending if your goind to add a bull bar or do a lot of towing,

i have the OME springs with Rancho Shocks and Struts, it is the only Spring lift available in australia apart from the Skyjacker

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jun 13, 2006 10:20 pm

Dark_Luther go read the post on smallest lift by AdirondacKJ on here I posted some info on the OME springs etc. I took almost a year reading , asking stupid questions , phone calls etc and the went the OME route. With this setup I have what I think is the best riding, handling 4X4 that I have ever owned and I have been lifting 4X4s since back in the 70s

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:45 am

Cheap lift that will work...

Buy four stock rear spring isolators...Take out the rear bottom spacer...glue one of the purchased spacers upsidedown on top of the other...then glue the third facing up to hold the spring...let it set...you can even tie wrap the bottom two together after you glue...the third has to be glue only so the spring will seat properly.

This will give you 1" of lift in the rear...

Next just adjust the front cleavis up about 1/2 of an inch or so and torque back to stock torque values. The 1/2 inch will get you about 9/10s of an inch of lift. Now you can fit some 245/70/16's MT's/AT's without any rubbing problems.

You will not have any added problems from doing this "Budget Lift"...the stock shock should be able to handle the extra 1" of travel if you leave the rear sway bar attached.

With the "Budget Lift" and slightly taller tires you will get about 1.25" of total lift...It is amazing what that will do off-road. Of course you need to armor the underside and rocker panels. The extra weight of the armor will probably bring you back down a little in the front...if it does you can slightly adjust the cleavis to level out you "Trail Ready" KJ...

dark_luther · **Posted:** Wed Jun 14, 2006 11:06 am

This has all been very valuable - thank you. I have a huge phobia of strange clunking and squeeking noises coming from my suspension. I understand that the "budget lift" is not supposed to cause any problems - thanks for the interesting idea. Going back to the OME set-upfor just a minute (I went through the other thread) ... it seems like the middle or heavy springs is the only way to go (to avoid nose-diving issues) ... are there any problems that come from running the heavy coils w/ a stock bumper and no intent to tow? ... Also, has anyone who is running the OME's has had issues with lbj's, a arms, or alignment?

Guyute1210 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 14, 2006 2:25 pm

dark_luther wrote:

This has all been very valuable - thank you. I have a huge phobia of strange clunking and squeeking noises coming from my suspension. I understand that the "budget lift" is not supposed to cause any problems - thanks for the interesting idea. Going back to the OME set-upfor just a minute (I went through the other thread) ... it seems like the middle or heavy springs is the only way to go (to avoid nose-diving issues) ... are there any problems that come from running the heavy coils w/ a stock bumper and no intent to tow? ... Also, has anyone who is running the OME's has had issues with lbj's, a arms, or alignment?

I have the Frankenlift with the HD OME coils, and no ARB or winch. The ride is still much better than stock. Just get the HD ones, you will be happy.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:24 pm

I ran the OME heavy dutys for about a month (over 1200 miles) before I put the ARB on and liked the ride a lot. So much better than stock. So much better in the curves , running down the four lane and on gravel back roads.

dark_luther · **Posted:** Wed Jun 14, 2006 5:49 pm

So far, it sounds like OME HD's is the way to go ... I read on Rocky Road's website that all lifts have the potential of tearing cv boots (and it seems that this also indicates much greater stress on the joints themselves?). Is this a problem with the OME / Rancho strut set-up too?

Mid-Level Set-Up?

Who is online