Anybody ever lowered their Jeep Liberty? I was looking at the Eibach lowering kit for about $300. I will probably only use 4WD when needed, in mud and rain. The kit lowers the Libby 1.2 inches, which might make it easier for me to tansfer to the seat.

I have a 2005 CRD. If people think there are any disadvantages to dropping 1.2 inches I might just leave the hieght as it came from the dealer. Any lowering suggestions or tips are appreciated.


Hoovy

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AKA: Scooby2b2

2005 Liberty Sport CRD Bright Silver
With 22C customer package, trailer tow hitch, mud flaps, Jeep tire cover, roof cargo basket, and hand controls.

"L.O.S.T." in the Texas Hill Country

You may have the same problem lowering the CRD as we have raising them. The spring rates for the new springs don't seem to match the CDR as well as they do the gas rigs.

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No one knows as much as all of us.

And the spring rate is.....? I don't know the term "spring rate" Do you mean the amount the Jeep will be lowered or highered by the differemnt springs?

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AKA: Scooby2b2

2005 Liberty Sport CRD Bright Silver
With 22C customer package, trailer tow hitch, mud flaps, Jeep tire cover, roof cargo basket, and hand controls.

"L.O.S.T." in the Texas Hill Country

When they tried to lift the CRD with taller aftermarket springs, they sagged back down to nearly stock height because of the added weight of the diesel engine. They ended up only using a spacer which retains the factory springs. So if you put different springs in to lower it you might get it lower than you originally planned.

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David
Bel Air,Md
2003 KJ Patriot Blue Sport w/mods R.I.P.
2005 Wrangler Unlimited not so stock
L.O.S.T. #082670
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/803306
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2399643
More mods planned than money.
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"Roads, where we're going we don't need roads."

I see. That is a good argument for leaving the springs and height on my CRD as it is. Would their be any thing wrong, ie would it be too low to drive on the highway and dirt roads, if it was lowered three inches?

Scoob

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AKA: Scooby2b2

2005 Liberty Sport CRD Bright Silver
With 22C customer package, trailer tow hitch, mud flaps, Jeep tire cover, roof cargo basket, and hand controls.

"L.O.S.T." in the Texas Hill Country

I want to lower mine also. I was going to go back to stock height to try for better mileage but I am considering the Eibach kit instead. I ended up just trashing the Jeep everytime offroad anyway. I will buy a $500.00 Cherokee to thrash and keep the CRD on the highway.

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

I don't think anyone makes a lowering kit for the CRD. So can you just cut up the factory one. It has the right spring rate.....

If you tried to put the Eibach springs it would probably lower it more than 1.2 inches.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650

or you can get some custom coils made, I know of a place that will do it, and for a good price

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/

As a Jeep owner I am saddened by this thread.

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Have fun out there.

2003 Cactus Green Renegade w/ NP231 & NV3550
Al's 4th Gen UCAs
Custom 3.5" Lift
Rear DTT
Spidertraxed 245/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

Is the eibach kit the only kit for lowering a libby. I'm not a off raoder by any means and have no intensions of really taking the car or pavement so a good 2" drop would be ideal but all I seem to find is the eibach kit.

The Eibach kit is most likely a progressive-rate kit. I wouldn't recommend it for the CRD as the lighter rate on the progressive scale will probably be too light, which would leave the front end sitting lower than planned.

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_______________________DogDomain_______________________

x2

One of the saddest days I have had is when I saw a lowered Wrangler with super short and fat wheels on it.

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My Rig:
2008 Jeep Wrangler JKU
OME HD lift
35" tires (thus far)
plus a ton of other things. J.E.E.P.

cutting springs are a hacks way to lower a car and not safe. i would never even consider doing that to a vehicle. the springs are designed a certain way for a reason

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2002 Cactus Green Renegade~OME HD/Rancho
235-85-16 Firestone Destination MT's~Detroit Locker~AL's 4.5 Arms
ARB bumper/Superwinch 9k~PIAA 540 driving lights/PIAA reverse lights~Crane 8.25 diff cover

Forgive my noob questions but what does CRD stand for? I'm a DSM guy so I"m not up on my jeep acronyms. I want the jeep to sit low. Not like slamed or anything obnoxious but pretty low. Again no off-roading for me just paved streets. Does anyone hae any pictures of this kit installed or know where to find any?

CRD is Common Rail Diesel,it's the diesel KJ.

Oh and to let you know lowering your vehicle will cause more problems(some of the same problems as lifting also) the lifting your KJ.You will have the same issues with the front CV's since lowering them will increase the angle(just in the opposite direction then lifting) that they are working in,your LBJ's and UBJ's will wear faster(just like a lifted KJ),you will have tire fitment issues even with stock tires,the driveshaft will slam into the t-case(or tranny is 2wd) when lowered damaging it,and the KJ is to low stock so lowering it will cause you to bottom out all the time.Another thing lowering springs are pretty soft,thus reducing your towing capicity,and it seams towing is what you want it for.

Since you want to tow with your KJ it may be a big benifit to get a OME lift with meduim coils up front and HD coil in back to handle your towed load better,it will handle so much better on road then stock ever did.

As tjkj2002 said, CRD stands for Common Rail Diesel. Jeep (DaimlerChrysler) put a 2.8 common rail diesel in the American released Liberty (KJ) in 2005 and 2006. If you don't know CRD, you most likely don't have one.

The Eibach 1.2 Sport kit will most likely be comprised of nothing more than 4 progressive-rate springs (2 front and 2 rear). I say that because I put Eibach pro kits on my 95 Eagle Talon and my 01 VW Jetta Wolfsburg and that is what came in those kits. I would strongly suggest asking the seller of the Eibach spring kit to suggest (and/or guaranteeing) replacement front struts and rear shocks to go along with the Eibach spring kit.

I can't, for the life of me, find an image of a Liberty with the kit installed. But here's a pict of the kit installed on a PT Cruiser.



Eibach springs are very high quality. I have never had a problem with them in the cars I've put them one. The Sport model springs (the only ones I can find offered for the KJ) are progressive rate, so the initial compression rate is softer, allowing smooth (lowered) everyday driving in the initial stage. The stiffer second stage allows for spirited driving without spring compression compromise. They make very nice springs and even offer a 1 million mile warranty on their parts.

I will warn that Eibach progressive-rate springs are not designed for towing. Progressive-rate springs inherently do poorly in this application. The initial rate on progressive-rate springs is typically too low to handle towed loads. The rear WILL sag. I would suggest finding an air-bag solution for the rear if towing is your primary goal.

I have never installed Eibach springs (or lowering springs) on my Jeep, nor ever shopped them for my Jeep. And I don't know of any that have. So I can only give the suggestions based on what I have done to previously-owned cars. I hope it helps.

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_______________________DogDomain_______________________

That's great info thanks a lot. I'm also a dsm guy so I know the difference between the pro and sport kits that eibach offers but wanted to see what it looked like cause 1.2" seems kinda a waste of time but I don't want a low rider jeep. I think I may venture out on a limb and get this kit. I agree about the struts and shock comment I never put springs or coilovers on stock suspension parts it's just asking for trouble. That does bother about the towing characteristics though. I"m already having a hard time trying to find a trailer light enough to not exceed max towing capacity but full trailer(not just fwd dolley) strong enough to stand trips to the track like 3 times a month or so.

really sounds like you are ready to take a vehicle that will tow good and will do it even better if you follow tjkjs advice, and turn it into a POS when lowered due to the springs not being able to haul the load. Plus the extra wear and tear on the suspension parts due to making the cv angles way worse!
seems counter productive to me, but then its your $$$ to waste

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Well I would only do it if I could find a good set of adjustable shocks/struts so I could stiffen up the rear so the back wouldn't sag or have any of the other neggative effects of progressive rate springs and stock suspension. I'm changing wheels first so that may give me the look and handeling I want anyway because I plan on going with a better tire and a lighter 18" wheel.