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03 Dual Intake?
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27363
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Author:  MiniDevil [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:55 pm ]
Post subject:  03 Dual Intake?

Inspired by a post in the Fabrication section, I scanned ebay for this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Black-04-05-06-07-JEEP-LIBERTY-3-7L-Dual-Air-Intake-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38634QQihZ006QQitemZ160187323250QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Dual Air Intake

Can this be modified to fit on an 03?

My idea is to clear out the current intake so I can throw in a second battery under the hood. This could do that for me :)

Author:  Christopher [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:08 pm ]
Post subject: 

You would have to do something with two vacumn lines that hook up to the factory box system so that wouldnt be so hard.

Chris

Author:  jeepkj02 [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:13 pm ]
Post subject: 

Without a functional hood scoop, that would just suck all the hot air from the engine and would give you less performance and lower mpg. Go with either a drop-in or a brand name air intake (air raid, aem, etc..)


EDIT: Just get an optima battery, make your life easier. :) I got one of those ebay intake (not duals), one of the mods that i really regret doing.

Author:  MiniDevil [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 8:25 pm ]
Post subject: 

I was going to throw in some hood louvers facing forward to mildly scoop in air when driving.

Author:  swyszomirski [ Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:45 am ]
Post subject: 

"I was going to throw in some hood louvers facing forward to mildly scoop in air when driving."

And the rain too.... at least you will have a clean engine, but I don't know how much the engine will appreciate it.

Stephen

Author:  theshoestore [ Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

My opinion has been to stay far away from the eBay car items. This is more than likely cheaply made, with a cheap filter. Plus with such a short tube, it will end up hurting performance by turning the intake into a HOT air intake. Either go for a longer K&N tube with a heat-shield, or just keep the stock box and get a performance drop in. If you really need to move the stock box for a battery, get a decent quality CAI. :twisted:

Author:  slippi84 [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:11 am ]
Post subject: 

I have this intake, while the pipe gets hotter than any other intake pipe I have had on my other cars probably because someone thought it would be a good idea to have the intake right over both heads, It smoothed out everything improved gas mileage ever slighlt maybe 1mpg and def gave it more power up top and midrange. I think when the intake sucks in enough air fast enough the amount of air even if it's hotter is carrying more o2 than the colder air from stock intake setup.

Author:  tommudd [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:28 am ]
Post subject: 

ALL BS HYPE. I have had 4 different setups on the KJ testing them in real world applications. None do any better than what the stock setup does EXCEPT for the current mod that I have which is a 3 inch hose running from the grill to the stock box.

Do you really want to be caught in traffic or out going 1.5 MPH on a trail drawing all that hot air in??? Think about it. While it does seem cool to listen to, it doesn't work. By the way my testing was done for several thousands of miles on each system and with each mileage never jumped up any at all really some even dropped with CAI well supposedly cold air.

The only thing that may really work that I have not done yet is to mount the filter in the ARB out where there is cool air and run the hose into the intake from there

Author:  slippi84 [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:09 am ]
Post subject: 

tommudd wrote:
ALL BS HYPE. I have had 4 different setups on the KJ testing them in real world applications. None do any better than what the stock setup does EXCEPT for the current mod that I have which is a 3 inch hose running from the grill to the stock box.

Do you really want to be caught in traffic or out going 1.5 MPH on a trail drawing all that hot air in??? Think about it. While it does seem cool to listen to, it doesn't work. By the way my testing was done for several thousands of miles on each system and with each mileage never jumped up any at all really some even dropped with CAI well supposedly cold air.

The only thing that may really work that I have not done yet is to mount the filter in the ARB out where there is cool air and run the hose into the intake from there


While I don't trail or ever plan on trailing how fast your going won't effect the intake anyway in a non ram air style setup. It's more the load tps% and rpm that will affect intake flow.

Author:  tommudd [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:15 am ]
Post subject: 

slippi84 wrote:
tommudd wrote:
ALL BS HYPE. I have had 4 different setups on the KJ testing them in real world applications. None do any better than what the stock setup does EXCEPT for the current mod that I have which is a 3 inch hose running from the grill to the stock box.

Do you really want to be caught in traffic or out going 1.5 MPH on a trail drawing all that hot air in??? Think about it. While it does seem cool to listen to, it doesn't work. By the way my testing was done for several thousands of miles on each system and with each mileage never jumped up any at all really some even dropped with CAI well supposedly cold air.

The only thing that may really work that I have not done yet is to mount the filter in the ARB out where there is cool air and run the hose into the intake from there


While I don't trail or ever plan on trailing how fast your going won't effect the intake anyway in a non ram air style setup. It's more the load tps% and rpm that will affect intake flow.


:shock: I must of been born yesterday :lol: I know what are saying but what you are not understanding that while driving in traffic or anytime going slow you are sucking nothing but hot air, not good for a engine to run well. 40 years of working on engines and I guess I still know nothing about air intakes :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Author:  slippi84 [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 11:51 am ]
Post subject: 

tommudd wrote:
slippi84 wrote:
tommudd wrote:
ALL BS HYPE. I have had 4 different setups on the KJ testing them in real world applications. None do any better than what the stock setup does EXCEPT for the current mod that I have which is a 3 inch hose running from the grill to the stock box.

Do you really want to be caught in traffic or out going 1.5 MPH on a trail drawing all that hot air in??? Think about it. While it does seem cool to listen to, it doesn't work. By the way my testing was done for several thousands of miles on each system and with each mileage never jumped up any at all really some even dropped with CAI well supposedly cold air.

The only thing that may really work that I have not done yet is to mount the filter in the ARB out where there is cool air and run the hose into the intake from there


While I don't trail or ever plan on trailing how fast your going won't effect the intake anyway in a non ram air style setup. It's more the load tps% and rpm that will affect intake flow.



:shock: I must of been born yesterday :lol: I know what are saying but what you are not understanding that while driving in traffic or anytime going slow you are sucking nothing but hot air, not good for a engine to run well. 40 years of working on engines and I guess I still know nothing about air intakes :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


I don't ever doubt anyone's knowledge as you never know what a person knows especially threw the internet but I have to disagree. I am new to jeeps and will take most info I get as the gospel till I know any better or can prove it wrong but when it comes to intakes and the workings of induction I'm pretty well versed myself :wink: The stock intake is setup to draw air in from outside and direct it into the intake. This is obvious to even a nooB. With this style intake, which again I have on my jeep right now, it draws mainly hot air from right above the intake manifold/heads. Hot air less dense air aka less oxygen and thus making the engine more prone to dentonation. This intake only comes forward from the TB maybe 10". That being said the air that is entering the engine bay while moving that would give you the advatge your speaking of is irrelevant because the intake is so far toward the back of the engine bay by the time that cooler moving air gets back there it's already about the same temp as the rest of the air. Not to mention the intake pipe is literally almost untouchable after about 10 miles no matter if it's highway or stop and go traffic so even if cooler air was getting all the way to the filters it's being heated up QUICK by the intake pipe. The only way I could see moving being a factor is like I said if some sort or ram air setup was being utilized like you said with a hose running to the grille opening. I'm not trying to educate you but while i'm no big shot car guy I know enough about certain things to speak on them.

Author:  daspes [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 5:14 pm ]
Post subject: 

slippi84 wrote:
tommudd wrote:
slippi84 wrote:
tommudd wrote:
ALL BS HYPE. I have had 4 different setups on the KJ testing them in real world applications. None do any better than what the stock setup does EXCEPT for the current mod that I have which is a 3 inch hose running from the grill to the stock box.

Do you really want to be caught in traffic or out going 1.5 MPH on a trail drawing all that hot air in??? Think about it. While it does seem cool to listen to, it doesn't work. By the way my testing was done for several thousands of miles on each system and with each mileage never jumped up any at all really some even dropped with CAI well supposedly cold air.

The only thing that may really work that I have not done yet is to mount the filter in the ARB out where there is cool air and run the hose into the intake from there


While I don't trail or ever plan on trailing how fast your going won't effect the intake anyway in a non ram air style setup. It's more the load tps% and rpm that will affect intake flow.



:shock: I must of been born yesterday :lol: I know what are saying but what you are not understanding that while driving in traffic or anytime going slow you are sucking nothing but hot air, not good for a engine to run well. 40 years of working on engines and I guess I still know nothing about air intakes :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


I don't ever doubt anyone's knowledge as you never know what a person knows especially threw the internet but I have to disagree. I am new to jeeps and will take most info I get as the gospel till I know any better or can prove it wrong but when it comes to intakes and the workings of induction I'm pretty well versed myself :wink: The stock intake is setup to draw air in from outside and direct it into the intake. This is obvious to even a nooB. With this style intake, which again I have on my jeep right now, it draws mainly hot air from right above the intake manifold/heads. Hot air less dense air aka less oxygen and thus making the engine more prone to dentonation. This intake only comes forward from the TB maybe 10". That being said the air that is entering the engine bay while moving that would give you the advatge your speaking of is irrelevant because the intake is so far toward the back of the engine bay by the time that cooler moving air gets back there it's already about the same temp as the rest of the air. Not to mention the intake pipe is literally almost untouchable after about 10 miles no matter if it's highway or stop and go traffic so even if cooler air was getting all the way to the filters it's being heated up QUICK by the intake pipe. The only way I could see moving being a factor is like I said if some sort or ram air setup was being utilized like you said with a hose running to the grille opening. I'm not trying to educate you but while i'm no big shot car guy I know enough about certain things to speak on them.


Your engine compartment will still be cooler rolling along any given speed, than when you are stuck in traffic and idling or out on the trail. I've seen a diff of 30 degrees myself when stuck on the I-5 parking lot in the middle of summer.

Author:  slippi84 [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:41 pm ]
Post subject: 

I agree because the engine compartment is not air tight obviously if you could take reading from where these filters are in this intake vs moving and not moving and then somehow read the signal from the IAT sensor I would bet that they are closer than you would think. I'm am all about every last hp to on my track car I have a funnel style ram air to get every last bit of power and I have a standalone engine management setup that lets me monitor things just like this and make changes based on those readings.

Author:  tjkj2002 [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:56 pm ]
Post subject: 

slippi84 wrote:
I agree because the engine compartment is not air tight obviously if you could take reading from where these filters are in this intake vs moving and not moving and then somehow read the signal from the IAT sensor I would bet that they are closer than you would think. I'm am all about every last hp to on my track car I have a funnel style ram air to get every last bit of power and I have a standalone engine management setup that lets me monitor things just like this and make changes based on those readings.
Having the open air filter sitting right on top of the exhaust manifolds will only suck in ultra hot air,the OEM box is more then enough flow of cooler outside drawn air.The temp reading will be vastly different and I can prove it via the IAT sensor which I have many ways to read,the best is the CRecorder($80) since it will record all data for 24 hours of KOER info that you can then look at your trip stats on your labtop after a drive.

Author:  slippi84 [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:53 pm ]
Post subject: 

tjkj2002 wrote:
slippi84 wrote:
I agree because the engine compartment is not air tight obviously if you could take reading from where these filters are in this intake vs moving and not moving and then somehow read the signal from the IAT sensor I would bet that they are closer than you would think. I'm am all about every last hp to on my track car I have a funnel style ram air to get every last bit of power and I have a standalone engine management setup that lets me monitor things just like this and make changes based on those readings.
Having the open air filter sitting right on top of the exhaust manifolds will only suck in ultra hot air,the OEM box is more then enough flow of cooler outside drawn air.The temp reading will be vastly different and I can prove it via the IAT sensor which I have many ways to read,the best is the CRecorder($80) since it will record all data for 24 hours of KOER info that you can then look at your trip stats on your labtop after a drive.


Oh I agree like I said this intake does NOT get cold air by any means. Short rams are designed to flow more not cooler air. Velocity is usually higher in a short ram intake and with this kit and the duel filters it must be sucking enough hot air in fast enough that it compensates for the temps. My only debate was the moving factor making a difference with this intake one way or another. I have always been a real world guy not a theory or statistic guy. IN a nut shell this intake works. A good drop in K&N is not much less then this kit and i your really adventurous you could extend the pipe on the passenger side to the K&N location and put a heat shield on and then turn the other side into a filter with hose leading to the front grill and make a dual cold air intake..hmmm might just do that see if it performs any better.

Author:  tommudd [ Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:01 pm ]
Post subject: 

slippi84 wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
slippi84 wrote:
I agree because the engine compartment is not air tight obviously if you could take reading from where these filters are in this intake vs moving and not moving and then somehow read the signal from the IAT sensor I would bet that they are closer than you would think. I'm am all about every last hp to on my track car I have a funnel style ram air to get every last bit of power and I have a standalone engine management setup that lets me monitor things just like this and make changes based on those readings.
Having the open air filter sitting right on top of the exhaust manifolds will only suck in ultra hot air,the OEM box is more then enough flow of cooler outside drawn air.The temp reading will be vastly different and I can prove it via the IAT sensor which I have many ways to read,the best is the CRecorder($80) since it will record all data for 24 hours of KOER info that you can then look at your trip stats on your labtop after a drive.


Oh I agree like I said this intake does NOT get cold air by any means. Short rams are designed to flow more not cooler air. Velocity is usually higher in a short ram intake and with this kit and the duel filters it must be sucking enough hot air in fast enough that it compensates for the temps. My only debate was the moving factor making a difference with this intake one way or another. I have always been a real world guy not a theory or statistic guy. IN a nut shell this intake works. A good drop in K&N is not much less then this kit and i your really adventurous you could extend the pipe on the passenger side to the K&N location and put a heat shield on and then turn the other side into a filter with hose leading to the front grill and make a dual cold air intake..hmmm might just do that see if it performs any better.


yes real world guy here as well, :wink: thats why I know the CAI do not work any better than the original on a KJ, some other "cars" maybe

but go for it

Author:  2006 KJ [ Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:13 am ]
Post subject: 

i hate to get into this conversation but i put a K&N cold air intake (with a plastic tube and "heat shield" on mine with a flowmaster muffler at the same time and noticed a very large difference and a solid 2-3 mpg increase. this is not dyno proven but i knew/know how every gear acts in my KJ and i can tell there was a increase in low-mid RPM's and it acquired guts in 6th gear it never had.

Author:  Kugellager [ Fri Sep 12, 2008 2:57 pm ]
Post subject: 

Has anyone actually ever traced where the air is drawn from in their gas KJ?

I have.

On my 2005 (before my recent cold air mods) the snorkel faces a small plastic diverter piece which is attached to the frame crossmember in front of the snorkel. Now, if you still have this diverter on close you hood slowly and look in over the passenger headlight as you close it. Also pay close attention at the foam seals on the hood and how they interface with the snorkel and diverter. You will quickly notice that it appears that the entire diverter/snorkel assembly seems sealed off from everything.

We know this cannot be totally true - engines need air.

Now, open the hood again and look at the rectangular cut out on the hood above where the diverter/snorkel/foam seals interface. Follow that opening under the fiberglass head liner and you will see that it opens up at a hole in the headliner that, when the hood is closed, falls to just to the right of the stock air box. Basically the air intake is mostly from behind the left side (as you face the engine bay) of the air box and some cooler air should come in from along the gap at the edge of the hood and fender. Most of the air is probably drawn from under the hood though - air will not be very cool compared to that outside the engine compartment. There also may be some that is drawn from a small opening where the snorkel/diverter/foam intefaces from the engine bay area between the engine and radiator. In mine there was a triangle-shaped gap of about 2" square in this area.

See My Version of the Cold Air Intake post in my mods thread near bottom of page three to see what I am talking about.

In the 5th photo you will be able to see what I am talking about.

John
];')

Author:  dieselenthusiast [ Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:35 am ]
Post subject: 

2006 KJ wrote:
i hate to get into this conversation but i put a K&N cold air intake (with a plastic tube and "heat shield" on mine with a flowmaster muffler at the same time and noticed a very large difference and a solid 2-3 mpg increase. this is not dyno proven but i knew/know how every gear acts in my KJ and i can tell there was a increase in low-mid RPM's and it acquired guts in 6th gear it never had.


From all my random road tests, and by running different air inlets into the factory air box, and by scooping as much cold air as I found possible, the 3.7L did show measurable gains in fuel economy in addition to a little more throttle response. Even the engine sounds different (louder) during hard accelerations. There is no doubt that the 3.7L likes a little more oxygen. Now I’m curious what a Fastman Throttle Body spacer might do with the addition to more cold air???????????????????

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