KKK,

Now we are on to something bud. Run down and get yourself a TORO electric "Power Sweep", I think it will work well for this project. Get yourself an inverter to plug it into, and we got lift off.

You made my day, I love you !!!!!!

I will try this...I promise !

Folks, that blower will fit under the hood and can be attached with a 3" PVC "Y", clamps, and hose. I think the shop VAC prefilter Syn Bag kinda like the one by K&N will fit. Yes I will.

Going to see if they make, or install a Variable speed switch and waste gate

Can it be called: "kkkustom TORO TURBO" ?

it is a good idea and i guess it works but... in reality it will blow your car in a about 1000 miles


It has to be about 5-7 pounds of boost... and without the extra fuel pressure it is runing very lean, and will over heat and blow rings...

naturaly asperaited engines have higher compression (13.1 14.1 +) and non fordged internals... tubro/super charged GENERALLY have forged pistons and or rods. 8:1 to maybe 12:1 compression.

you also need fuel to go with boost. FMU's are easy, they basically step the fuel in increments with boost (6:1, 8:1, 10:1). Meaning for one pound of boost will raise say 10lbs of fuel pressure. and now that means you need a high out put fuel pump to feed it.... AND now that means you may exceed your injectors... maybe stock are 19lb you may need 24lb's.

alot of work, but VERY worth it. nothing like boost!


BUT... to go back to imports... hehe. I have ran Honda D16, B18's with STOCK internals for MANY MANY miles, with a simple turbo set up (4-5lb boost) a $70 FMU, $80 255gph walbro fuel pump, and stock injectors. Keep it simple... and dont shoot for 1000hp... you can run a turbo and not hurt the motor much at all for easily 100kmi...

NOW THIS THREAD IS HIJACKED! LOL

You didn't think I was really gonna try that piston burner did ya?

You have now spelled out most of the necessities of real increased pressure, and my point that...The Cool looking air filter ain't putting any decent pressure in the car at speed. Does provide better sitting still flow.

= possible loss of efficiency and gas milage

i did not think you were really going to "leaf blow" yoru motor! but it would be fun to see.

i am willing to bet that the loss of mpg is based on the computer over-compencating for the more air flow my sending more fuel. clop the plugs and see if they are lean/rich. that is a good starting point.

I have seen cars go both ways. my ranger threw a lean engine condition CEL with only a intake and muffler. I then ran straight pipe (no cats) to a flowmaster 40. simple "coldair" intake, and portmatched the header to the cyclinder and ported and polished the intake side of the head a bit, and ported and polished the intake manifolds. after that I had to change the wimpy 14lb injectors for 19lb, and had SuperChip burn a custom fuel map for me. Then it ran very good. could suprise the hell out of most imports and some other trucks that frowned on lowered mini trucks... ran a 14.3 1/4 too. not bad for a 4banger ranger!

then i also seen a few richen up the mixture so much that it would run like crap due to an intake and exhaust.

Actually, it's not too hard to force a ton of cold air into the K&N FIPK or AEM Brute.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...