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Interesting.
I've been reading some of your older posts for a while, and always wondered about some of the mods you had on.
I was wondering about your TransGo shift kit. What does it do exactly? The website wasnt much help at all. Could you also please tell what the APS stall converter does, and how are 4.10 gears beneficial?
I thought Kenne Bell did in fact make a supercharger for the KJ for a short period, but then discontinued it from a lack of demand? Do you by any chance know what PSI the Kenne Bell libby was running when it did that 16.1sec pass?
I'm interested in eventually supercharging the KJ, but of course after much research on getting forged internals for it. It's going to be very expensive regardless. Would you mind posting about your experience in getting your new pistons, rods, and tuning? I'd love to hear about it. I was also looking into possibly using a custom Squires turbo kit (external turbo setup, no intercooler) which will cost about $4k for the turbo kit and custom piping, and doesnt include prepping the motor for forced induction.
I'm hoping they release a stroker kit sometime in the future. If forced induction tuning proves to be too much strain on the wallet, I'll probably just end up tuning it for NA. A friend of mine recommended getting an APEX-i SAFC computer to help control the air/fuel map along the powerband. Couple this with dyno tuning for the SAFC (super air/fuel controller), and the motor's efficiency can be maxed out for a particular scenario.
Since you seem to be into drag racing, I wonder why you didnt instead pick up a set of Koni Yellow (3 way adjustable) shocks and Eibach Pro Kit springs for the libby? Do the Monroes lower the KJ, or are they just the right price. Rather than lifting my ride in the typical Jeep fashion, I think I'm going to get the Eibach pro kit eventually.
I've been reading some of your older posts for a while, and always wondered about some of the mods you had on.
I was wondering about your TransGo shift kit. What does it do exactly? The website wasnt much help at all. Could you also please tell what the APS stall converter does, and how are 4.10 gears beneficial?
I thought Kenne Bell did in fact make a supercharger for the KJ for a short period, but then discontinued it from a lack of demand? Do you by any chance know what PSI the Kenne Bell libby was running when it did that 16.1sec pass?
I'm interested in eventually supercharging the KJ, but of course after much research on getting forged internals for it. It's going to be very expensive regardless. Would you mind posting about your experience in getting your new pistons, rods, and tuning? I'd love to hear about it. I was also looking into possibly using a custom Squires turbo kit (external turbo setup, no intercooler) which will cost about $4k for the turbo kit and custom piping, and doesnt include prepping the motor for forced induction.
I'm hoping they release a stroker kit sometime in the future. If forced induction tuning proves to be too much strain on the wallet, I'll probably just end up tuning it for NA. A friend of mine recommended getting an APEX-i SAFC computer to help control the air/fuel map along the powerband. Couple this with dyno tuning for the SAFC (super air/fuel controller), and the motor's efficiency can be maxed out for a particular scenario.
Since you seem to be into drag racing, I wonder why you didnt instead pick up a set of Koni Yellow (3 way adjustable) shocks and Eibach Pro Kit springs for the libby? Do the Monroes lower the KJ, or are they just the right price. Rather than lifting my ride in the typical Jeep fashion, I think I'm going to get the Eibach pro kit eventually.
The TransGo reprogramming kit causes the transmission to shift much quicker, with less slip. It is actually better for your transmission. It makes it shift more like a sport truck. The downshifts for passing are much quicker too. Very nice for a little over $100 if you can take apart your own valve body. It's even a very nice mod if you have to pay a mechanic $300 to install it.
The APS torque converter is custom built with a 2500 rpm stall and a 2.53:1 torque multiplier. It allows me to hold the brake, and rev the engine up above 2000 rpm before I release the brake and launch. It is also more effecient than stock. It only looses around 12% of the power compared to 20% for the stock converter. That means that you get 8% more power to the ground. You will also want a B&G flash with the torque management deleted. Otherwise, the stock computer will not allow you to launch well, and it won't shift as good as it can.
The 4.10 gears are slightly larger than the stock 3.73 gears. This allows you to gain low rpm torque, at the expense of some high rpm horsepower. The increases your acceleration ability. It will cost you a few mpg at interstate speeds though. The 4.10's for the front are only available from a dealership. The cheapest and easiest way to get them is pull a front diff from a 4 cylinder KJ. I've got US Gears from Randy's Ring and Pinion in the rear of mine.
KB put a supercharger on the Liberty Patriot from Performance West Group for SEMA shows back in 2002. Unfortunately, the pistons and rings on the stock 3.7 can't handle forced induction. The motor will have to be built. You'll need to have custom parts made for a 4.7 rebuild to build the 3.7.
I went with the Monroes because they handle and ride much better than the stock shocks and struts. This Jeep is a daily driver for me, and I would never lower a Jeep. Just can't do it. Plus, going skiing every weekend in the winter is much more important to me than racing. That's one of the reasons my choice in boost was N2O. Over 300 lbs of torque to the ground in a Liberty could be a little dangerous after an ice storm.
I think the APEX-i is a good idea. The tricky thing about air/fuel ratio control on a Liberty is that it tends to run cylinder 5 the leanest, and 2 the richest. I would think combining the APEX-i with a set of Lincoln Navigator fuel injectors could provide some interesting results. I've being playing around with the idea myself because of the ram-air. It actually makes a big difference. There is a small opening in the underside of the hood, right above the K&N cone. All the air from the big scoop is blown right into it. I actually have to clean the air filter every 1000-1500 miles because the top half of it is almost black.
would that be due to the torque management, if not, than what does it do exactly???
