'06 CRD Owner in Washington State

Fyodor · **Joined:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 3:26 pm **Posts:** 14

Hello from Olympia, WA USA!
Picked up my red KJ Sport a couple of days ago and 100% glad I took the plunge!
Spent yesterday doing the 'noob mods' and what a difference.
Owned a '96 1 ton dually Dodge with a Cummins but sold it about 4 years ago and missed that diesel torque.
Only found out about the diesel Liberty a few weeks ago and decided one would replace the old minivan.

Anyway great forum- hope to contribute what I learn!

John (Fyodor)

:JEEPIN:

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:59 pm

Welcome

snakeyez · **Joined:** Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:45 am **Posts:** 15

welcome to the forum... im fairly new hee as well.
which n00b mods did you do to your CRD?

Fyodor · **Joined:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 3:26 pm **Posts:** 14

I cleaned up the MAP, it was pretty caked but not wet. Did the ORM and now getting a noticeable mileage increase and better throttle response. There is a sticker on the radiator support showing that the F37 'update' was done back in '06. I initially did the EHM but wasn't too thrilled with venting sludge to the ground, even though my old Cummins was set up that way too, so I re-routed the hose into the airbox through a 1" hole drilled in the front and made a catch can out of a jar filled with some copper scrubbies and holes drilled around the perimeter of the jar lid for the air to escape. It sits in there nicely. I have been a professional Mopar muscle car restorer since about 2002 and have raced and worked on them since 1980, so I just built something off the design of the old Mopar valve cover oil baffles. I think folks are way overthinking the whole CCV oil separation idea, although there's still no emissions testing in my county so I'm kinda spoiled. I'll post some pictures here soon, Love to hear some input.
Have some oil filters and a fuel filter coming in the mail, though the high temp all this week is about 30 degrees so they can take their time. Looked at my oil pan drain bolt and it doesn't seem thrashed, but an investment in one of those drain valves will be done down the road. Also going to change out the diffs, tranny(& filter), and transfer case fluids. This spring I'll rent some tools and do the timing belt.
This rig will be well loved, but have to spread work load and $ over it, 2 Super Bee projects and a Dodge Dude pickup, plus I'm returning to school at age 52! :shock:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2017 4:34 am

Sounds like a plate full and a garage full of stuff I love! Grats and good luck in all your endeavors.

Actually ATM I'm only about 150 miles south of ya till this weekend.

Currently 28 and raining here at the beach. Wind from the NE.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2017 1:28 pm

Fyodor wrote:

I cleaned up the MAP, it was pretty caked but not wet. Did the ORM and now getting a noticeable mileage increase and better throttle response. There is a sticker on the radiator support showing that the F37 'update' was done back in '06. I initially did the EHM but wasn't too thrilled with venting sludge to the ground, even though my old Cummins was set up that way too, so I re-routed the hose into the airbox through a 1" hole drilled in the front and made a catch can out of a jar filled with some copper scrubbies and holes drilled around the perimeter of the jar lid for the air to escape. It sits in there nicely. I have been a professional Mopar muscle car restorer since about 2002 and have raced and worked on them since 1980, so I just built something off the design of the old Mopar valve cover oil baffles. I think folks are way overthinking the whole CCV oil separation idea, although there's still no emissions testing in my county so I'm kinda spoiled. I'll post some pictures here soon, Love to hear some input.
Have some oil filters and a fuel filter coming in the mail, though the high temp all this week is about 30 degrees so they can take their time. Looked at my oil pan drain bolt and it doesn't seem thrashed, but an investment in one of those drain valves will be done down the road. Also going to change out the diffs, tranny(& filter), and transfer case fluids. This spring I'll rent some tools and do the timing belt.
This rig will be well loved, but have to spread work load and $ over it, 2 Super Bee projects and a Dodge Dude pickup, plus I'm returning to school at age 52! :shock:

There's one commonality with failed main seals on this engine, the EHM mod, and it doesn't take ice, as the turbo provides zero to a slight vacuum on the crankcase. Mine failed around 150k, and no iced up tube. Plus you get oil dripping, terrible mod :2cents:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2017 2:22 pm

Fyodor wrote:

Love to hear some input.

Welcome to the forum, lots of great help available here!

As to the CCV, there are valid reasons as to why the hose should be routed into the turbo intake boot!
I am not going to go into all the reasons here as the link below covers most of the whys!

If you do not want the oil going into the intake boot and CAC system then you need to install a ProVent filter like many on here have done... :wink:

You can do a search on here for Provent and learn all about them, where to install, etc...
This diesel engine is like no others that I know of in the fact that the vacuum pump discharges internally into the crankcase so CCV control becomes extremely important!!!!
Do it wrong, and you can blow out oil seals!!!!

Sounds like you are an experienced Mopar person; Read this thread and then make your own informed decision based on facts:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80491&hilit
After you have read and digested all of the information, I believe you may have a different opinion on this matter as many of us on this forum have concluded?
:SOMBRERO:

One of the first things that most do is block off the EGR feed tube with a simple metal plate blank to stop the soot laden exhaust from being dumped into the intake where when mixed with the oil vapors from the CCV make soot pies that stick to everything! An ORM or tune cannot 100% guarantee that the EGR valve is not leaking by therefore still dumping soot into the intake.
A great mod is installing the Weeks (Sasquatch Parts) elbow kit which allows you to get rid of the EGR valve, EGR cooler, FCV, and all other related crap associated with the stupid EGR system.

If you need any information, just ask, many highly experienced people with this diesel on this forum more than willing to help. :wink:

Fyodor · **Joined:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 3:26 pm **Posts:** 14

I also pulled the airbox to turbo intake boot as well as the upper CAC hose,and cleaned them out. Both hoses had dirty oil and soot in them, especially the CCV hose to the boot. Fortunately all hoses were soft and intact so they were re-installed. except the CCV hose, which was pulled along with the 90 degree fitting and I plugged the boot port.

Since my new CCV hose is routed straight back into the airbox, with a simple passive oil catcher at the end of the hose, isn't the turbo still pulling on it like before or does the air filter restrict the vacuum effect too much? There is the addition of the atmospheric port 'punching' air through the filter as well. so I reasoned that the rush of air flowing through the airbox is strong enough to create an adequate vacuum effect on the CCV system, and it shouldn't matter where the CCV hose is plumbed into that system.

I'll read the thread about CCV systems and turbo vacuum

I was reading about the Weeks EGR delete last night on their website. Looks like a good mod- also because it allows better access to the glow plugs.

thanks for the input!

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:42 pm

Hmm, I hadn't thought about that vacuum. Maybe it's enough. I think you'll be OK with light use. Put some serious load on that engine with high temps and I think that's when the main seal gets deformed, but I'm no expert, I just know replacing the main seal is a serious pain. I'd rather pull the head...

Fyodor · **Joined:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 3:26 pm **Posts:** 14

Well light duty for now, don't have anything to pull. I started reading that thread and find it interesting to see the difference in crankcase pressures with a closed versus open system. My routing into in the airbox might alleviate some of the positive pressure an open system can create, but I now definitely see the logic of a Provent or similar closed setup. I see that Sasquatch opines that all this is moot when installing the EGR delete setup, but I still don't like the idea of even clean soot free oil getting sent into the turbo's air intake. I'm a tightwad by necessity, so might give one of these BMW knockoffs a try before going full Provent: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=bmw+11151705237&_sop=15

Dirus · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2017 3:48 am

Fyodor wrote:

Well light duty for now, don't have anything to pull. I started reading that thread and find it interesting to see the difference in crankcase pressures with a closed versus open system. My routing into in the airbox might alleviate some of the positive pressure an open system can create, but I now definitely see the logic of a Provent or similar closed setup. I see that Sasquatch opines that all this is moot when installing the EGR delete setup, but I still don't like the idea of even clean soot free oil getting sent into the turbo's air intake. I'm a tightwad by necessity, so might give one of these BMW knockoffs a try before going full Provent: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=bmw+11151705237&_sop=15

If one of those works that would be awesome, I still have oil blowing through my intake....

Welcome to CRD ownership, nice to see another in WA

Fyodor · **Joined:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 3:26 pm **Posts:** 14

Well, the little rig I setup in the airbox worked OK, but a lot of sooty oil coated the air filter- not good. Fortunately, I snagged an '03 airbox off Craigslist with the snorkel and new Wix filter, so I installed that and my BMW knockoff centrifugal air/oil separator. Now the CCV hose is plugged back into the turbo. I've only put about 100 miles on it and there is already a pool of oil in the catch jar. You can hear a LOT of air moving around under that hood now!

Noticed my oil level was filled to the 'max' line on the dipstick, and don't know when it was changed last, so I did that and measured out the 6.4qts and added a factory sized Wix filter. This will be a short interval of oil, and I will install a Fleetguard 3487 next time with 6.8 qts or so.

I thought my fuel heater head was "OK" until I started to do a filter change on it and unplugged the heater, drip drip drip... and the plug was scorched brown! Scored a new head on eBay for $89 and built the right harness connector (Delphi 15300027 Metri-Pack 280 Female 2 way Connector Housing). Problem solved and much better startups.

Swapped out the rear axle oil and transfer case ATF too.

Having a blast breathing life back into this Jeep. This is a vehicle to 'go the distance' with! Fun to show off to folks who 'never knew Jeep made a diesel'... :SOMBRERO:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 11:13 am

Not familiar with the construction of the BMW separator you list; but just be aware, the ProVent coalescing filter unit has a built in pressure relieve valve so that if anything were to ever cause a stoppage or inadequate flow, it would prevent any pressure build up in the CCV system... Sort of like a safety valve!!!
:SOMBRERO:

Fyodor · **Joined:** Sat Dec 31, 2016 3:26 pm **Posts:** 14

Have 90 degree fittings in a couple places so all lines are straight. A diesel mechanic friend said it looked good, he even said my fittings were overkill because 'so little pressure flows through there'. Will keep an eye on it though.

'06 CRD Owner in Washington State

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