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 Post subject: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:56 am 
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Got my hands on a CRD last August. Excited about the potential. I thought it had a blown head gasket which I was totally up to replace but after I finally got it tore apart over the holidays...I haven't found the failure yet. I did find rust on the cam lobes and rollers, valve springs and now cylinder sleeves. Not finding ton of parts suppliers but did come across this forum. If I can find the failure and the parts Im going to re-sleeve her with new bearings and rings, new springs and valves, cams and roller rockers etc. - make her new again. 110k miles on the original. You can follow my efforts on instagram @rayjeanjeep


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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:05 am 
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Check for a cracked head.

IDparts.com is a excellent parts source.

Also, If you plan to install new rings you will probably also need new pistions. Somewhere along the line the piston/rings design changed. IDparts has the details.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 10:26 am 
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It will cost thousands, and you won't gain much. I would just Get the head tested, and make sure they test the water jacket. Scrub what rust you can get to and oil it, that engine is just broken in :2cents:

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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 1:47 pm 
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Sentiensx wrote:
Got my hands on a CRD last August. Excited about the potential. I thought it had a blown head gasket which I was totally up to replace but after I finally got it tore apart over the holidays...I haven't found the failure yet. I did find rust on the cam lobes and rollers, valve springs and now cylinder sleeves. Not finding ton of parts suppliers but did come across this forum. If I can find the failure and the parts Im going to re-sleeve her with new bearings and rings, new springs and valves, cams and roller rockers etc. - make her new again. 110k miles on the original. You can follow my efforts on instagram @rayjeanjeep


I be surprised if it needs new sleeves and rings unless its has engine damage. I have pulled heads from these with over 200,000 miles and the sleeves and rings are like new. its one part that should last 500k plus.

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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 2:04 pm 
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Agreed, When i pulled mine apart (140,000miles) the sleeves and rings still looked to be in pretty good shape, i didnt even consider going with new rings, except for the one i broke trying to install.

Edit: looking at your instagram here: http://www.imgrum.net/user/rayjeanjeep/4279370820 the sleeves look like they dont look horrible but they seem to have a little more wear than what mine had

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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 10:01 pm 
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I dont want to replace the sleeves /Liners but they have rust on them.

Also, curious that they wiggle just a little. If I apply back and forth presser to the sleeve I can see the wd40 I sprayed kind of bead up between the sleeve and the block when applying pressure. Does that seem normal?


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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 11:26 pm 
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How bad is the rust?
Too bad to be cleaned up with a scotch brite pad and wd40?
Sounds like it must have sat for several months without being run.

Dont know what to say about the slight wiggle in the sleeve.
I never checked for something like that.
But the sleeves are wet and therefore have seals. If the seals went bad that might cause the wiggle AND be the source of your coolant leak into the crankcase.

Does your crank turn freely?

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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 11:48 am 
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If the head is off, and the liners (sleeves) already appear to have some play or looseness, I would strongly recommend NOT to try and rotate the crankshaft as that could cause the liners to pop up out of the block and break their seals. :roll:
Miller makes a tool (MILLER LINER RETAINER VM.1076) to hold the liners in place which allows the crank to be rotated with the head off. Or, you probably could fabricate a homemade tool that would suffice for this purpose if you feel you must rotate the crank....

From page 9-222 of the FSM: "DO NOT rotate the engine with out special tool VM.1075 in position."

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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 2:55 pm 
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I've seen the entire internal rusty from a cracked head that blew violently on this engine. I've never seen a sleeve that wasn't cemented in place. I would assume the seal is toast and pull the whole thing apart, but other than replacing that seal and checking all of the bearings, I would reassemble it unless the rust is deep enough to cause pitting. I might throw new bearings and wrist pin bushings if there is noticeable wear

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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 5:36 am 
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WWDiesel wrote:
If the head is off, and the liners (sleeves) already appear to have some play or looseness, I would strongly recommend NOT to try and rotate the crankshaft as that could cause the liners to pop up out of the block and break their seals. :roll:
Miller makes a tool (MILLER LINER RETAINER VM.1076) to hold the liners in place which allows the crank to be rotated with the head off. Or, you probably could fabricate a homemade tool that would suffice for this purpose if you feel you must rotate the crank....

From page 9-222 of the FSM: "DO NOT rotate the engine with out special tool VM.1075 in position."


oops. I have rotated it several times, no liner pop yet. I am planning to replaces them and the seals of course. Im going to pull the crank for inspection before doing any rebuild and spending any money.


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 Post subject: Re: CRD rescue Sacramento California
PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 5:42 am 
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Mountainman wrote:
I've seen the entire internal rusty from a cracked head that blew violently on this engine. I've never seen a sleeve that wasn't cemented in place. I would assume the seal is toast and pull the whole thing apart, but other than replacing that seal and checking all of the bearings, I would reassemble it unless the rust is deep enough to cause pitting. I might throw new bearings and wrist pin bushings if there is noticeable wear


The rust on the inside of the liners doesnt seem terrible to me, would come out with scotch bright, but my buddy who is a heavy equipment diesel mechanic doesnt like it and recommends new liners. Im going to pull the crank and inspect bearing surfaces as well as pistons and if all looks repairable/reusable (esp crank) then ill replaces liners and seals, rings and bearings... the lot. I need to make a video of the sleeve/liner wiggle. Its not much but with some pressure you can see liquid bead up in the tiny space between the liner and the block.


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