GordnadoCRD wrote:
#1 is easy once you set the alternator out of the way.
#2 depends on how flexible he is.
#3 and #4 require a long-armed contortionist, but are easier if you have Sasquatch's Weeks intake EGR eliminator kit(s) installed. They allow complete removal of the EGR system, and MUCH better access to the area (as a side benefit).
If you have the ceramic plugs still, make sure he knows to be EXTREMELY careful and gentle pulling them out, so that if they are still intact, they don't break and leave part of the ceramic still stuck inside. Keep in mind the failed one may already be cracked or broken, and need extraction before the new one can be installed. They may also be not a matching set.
When I did mine last year, the programming is original 7V, and the ones present when I bought it, were 3 ceramic and one 5v Bosch. I don't know for how long, but all were working perfectly.
The set currently are GX2123 ETecno1 5v. They are still working amazingly well. (of course through the summer they are essentially non-functional, but it's been freezing or below most mornings since mid October). It starts every bit as quickly now, as in mid July.
Two more tips, make sure when he puts the electrical connectors on the new plug, make sure they 'snap' on. If they are not, they will work for a while, but will be really inconsistent, and if the contact is too loose, it can heat up (like a heater element) and destroy the electrical insulation. #2) Make sure he knows absolutely for sure, not to over torque the new plugs. These have a small seal area at the tip end, and require the lightest torque value, I believe, in the entire engine. If over torqued, the steel body will snap when they are next removed..
As Gordon stated, do not over torque,
very important!
From the FSM: "Tighten glow plugs to 12.5 N·m (110 in.lbs.)"
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