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 Post subject: Glow plug change out
PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:50 pm 
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Location: Sisters, Oregon
So, the engine light comes on and I take it into my local mechanic to find out why. He says it's because one of the four glow plugs is dead and needs replacing. However, he wasn't able to find any parts store -- or dealership -- to order new glow plugs for.

I provided him links to two places recommended here: IDparts.com and Sasquatchparts.com. Two weeks later, he's still in the dark because there's a 7v vs. 5v retrofix of the original ceramic plugs. Which ones do I have? I DON'T KNOW!!

The original 7v ceramic are nowhere to order and no one seems to know why.

So, back to internet research to learn this, thanks to IDParts.com blog. They referenced you kind folks in their blog, which is one reason why I want to reprint this in its entirety to benefit other newbies who, like me, didn't know this.

CRD Glow Plugs – 5 Volt or 7 Volt?
(Published by IDParts.com on October 13, 2017)

If your Jeep Liberty CRD needs replacement glow plugs, you might be confused by the different options, including choosing 5 volt or 7 volt editions. This guide will walk you through making the right choice.

About the Factory Plugs
The factory plugs on the Jeep CRD were a new-generation ceramic glow plug made by Bosch. Ceramic plugs are able to get hotter than traditional steel plugs, making cold starts quicker and less smoky. Unfortunately, the first generation of Bosch 7V ceramic plugs were prone breaking off and falling into the engine.

5V Recall
Shortly after Jeep ended CRD sales in 2006 a “light recall” was announced to address the ceramic plug issue. We call this a light recall because customers were not specifically mailed and notified to bring their Jeep in for service, however, if the Jeep was at a dealership the tech could be prompted to perform the repair. This means that this recall was performed on some, but not all CRDs.

The repair consisted of removing the 7V ceramic plugs and replacing them with a 5V steel plug, then replacing the glow plug control unit and reprogramming the ECU (engine computer) for new 5v programming.

Since the new 5v plugs were made of steel they could not get as hot as the ceramic plugs, and unfortunately cold-starting performance suffered. As the temperature dropped owners found they needed to use the block heater more often to get their Jeeps started.

Determining Your Version
Officially speaking, you should replace your glow plugs with the same version that the car is programmed for. The easiest way to determine your glow plug version is to take out a glow plug. The voltage rating will be stamped into the glow plug shoulder.

If your car is chip-tuned (or you are going to get it tuned) your tuner can also tell you which programming you have.

Running 5V at 7V Programming
As we mentioned above, the 5V steel plugs have not been as effective as the ceramics were at sub-freezing temperatures. Traditionally it was thought that running the 5V plugs at the higher 7V programming would cause the 5v plugs to burn out.

A few members on the LostJeeps CRD forum (if you haven’t joined yet, do so!) decided to purposefully run the 5v plugs on their 7v programmed CRDs to see what would happen – how quickly would they burn out, and would it improve starting?

First impressions were dramatically improved starting, and, now that over a year has gone by, none of the test plugs have burned out yet. It is still a gamble, but, it seems that over-driving the 5-volt plugs has worked for these members.

Now, as for me, what did I do?
I took it upon myself to order the 7v Enterec steel plugs. I am making an assumption that the person from whom I bought my CRD never did the 5v conversion. (After all, he didn't know whether or not it had its timing belt changed when needed). The plugs should arrive this week and I'm hoping my son will have no trouble changing out all four. After all, he told me it would be no problem ... let's hope he's right. Who wants to bet me a beer on the outcome?


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 Post subject: Re: Glow plug change out
PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 7:37 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
#1 is easy once you set the alternator out of the way.
#2 depends on how flexible he is.
#3 and #4 require a long-armed contortionist, but are easier if you have Sasquatch's Weeks intake EGR eliminator kit(s) installed. They allow complete removal of the EGR system, and MUCH better access to the area (as a side benefit).

If you have the ceramic plugs still, make sure he knows to be EXTREMELY careful and gentle pulling them out, so that if they are still intact, they don't break and leave part of the ceramic still stuck inside. Keep in mind the failed one may already be cracked or broken, and need extraction before the new one can be installed. They may also be not a matching set.

When I did mine last year, the programming is original 7V, and the ones present when I bought it, were 3 ceramic and one 5v Bosch. I don't know for how long, but all were working perfectly.

The set currently are GX2123 ETecno1 5v. They are still working amazingly well. (of course through the summer they are essentially non-functional, but it's been freezing or below most mornings since mid October). It starts every bit as quickly now, as in mid July.

Two more tips, make sure when he puts the electrical connectors on the new plug, make sure they 'snap' on. If they are not, they will work for a while, but will be really inconsistent, and if the contact is too loose, it can heat up (like a heater element) and destroy the electrical insulation. #2) Make sure he knows absolutely for sure, not to over torque the new plugs. These have a small seal area at the tip end, and require the lightest torque value, I believe, in the entire engine. If over torqued, the steel body will snap when they are next removed..

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 Post subject: Re: Glow plug change out
PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 7157
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
#1 is easy once you set the alternator out of the way.
#2 depends on how flexible he is.
#3 and #4 require a long-armed contortionist, but are easier if you have Sasquatch's Weeks intake EGR eliminator kit(s) installed. They allow complete removal of the EGR system, and MUCH better access to the area (as a side benefit).
If you have the ceramic plugs still, make sure he knows to be EXTREMELY careful and gentle pulling them out, so that if they are still intact, they don't break and leave part of the ceramic still stuck inside. Keep in mind the failed one may already be cracked or broken, and need extraction before the new one can be installed. They may also be not a matching set.
When I did mine last year, the programming is original 7V, and the ones present when I bought it, were 3 ceramic and one 5v Bosch. I don't know for how long, but all were working perfectly.
The set currently are GX2123 ETecno1 5v. They are still working amazingly well. (of course through the summer they are essentially non-functional, but it's been freezing or below most mornings since mid October). It starts every bit as quickly now, as in mid July.
Two more tips, make sure when he puts the electrical connectors on the new plug, make sure they 'snap' on. If they are not, they will work for a while, but will be really inconsistent, and if the contact is too loose, it can heat up (like a heater element) and destroy the electrical insulation. #2) Make sure he knows absolutely for sure, not to over torque the new plugs. These have a small seal area at the tip end, and require the lightest torque value, I believe, in the entire engine. If over torqued, the steel body will snap when they are next removed..

As Gordon stated, do not over torque, very important!
From the FSM: "Tighten glow plugs to 12.5 N·m (110 in.lbs.)"

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 Post subject: Re: Glow plug change out
PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2505
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Oh, and one more tip.

Do not use any kind of lubrication or anti-seize on the glow plugs. Neither seat nor threads.

One reason is electrical. The metal body and seat are the means by which the plugs are grounded

The other reason is practical. These are in presence of heat second only to injectors and valve heads. Anything short of oxygen sensor anti-seize would fairly quickly degenerate into glue and actually make things worse. Oxygen sensor anti-seize is essentially glass particles in a metal matrix suspension (powdered copper or magnesium as an upgrade to graphite, to allow better heat dissipation). Glass particles are not kind to soft aluminum, and will destroy both threads and seat.

This necessity is another reason to not over torque them when you install.

(I know, this no lubrication thing was counter-intuitive to me as well, but they are made from some flavor of stainless that is designed to work this way, and not disintegrate the aluminum with electrolysis or oxidation.)

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Profile  
 
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