The BP1200.1 is a perfect match for 2 12w7s.
Ignore what that other fellow said.
The BP1200.1 puts out 1440 WRMS and the 12w7s are rated for 750WRMS each.
Thats 1500 total, and at 1440 WRMS you are hard pressed to find a closer match.
The 12w7 can handle the 1440 watts in a controlled situation, but you said you just wanted the SPL to be heard and the SQ for your own enjoyment; which will be achieved with the pair of drivers and one amp.
One BP1200.1 will give you that, and it will last forever. (I've owned 4 of these amps and never had one fail regardless of any abuse I could dish it.)
At 1.5 ohms in series parallel you would be a PERFECT match for the bp1200.1 which is stable down to 1 ohm and puts out a constant 1400wrms anywhere between 1-2 ohms.
According to what I have just explained, this puts you in JLaudios yellow power classification.
Taken from: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs ... page_id=35
"Yellow (Optimum):
This zone represents the best compromise between long-term reliability, high-output and low-distortion performance and is centered on each woofer's continuous power rating (as published in its specifications). In this zone, you will be taking full advantage of the woofer's optimum, low-distortion performance range without undue risk of failure. "
If you were to decide to put one bp1200.1 on each you would place yourself in the middle of the following two categories. (If you are not a seasoned audiophile this will completely destroy your drivers and amp.
"Red (Danger Zone):
Low-distortion output and long-term reliability will be compromised (especially by an aggressive user). Slightly more SPL might be gained by pushing the power into this zone, but typically not more than 2 dB, when compared to the yellow zone. The closer you are to the black zone, the higher the likelihood of driver failure. Operate with caution: burnt voice coils are not covered under warranty. "
"Black (Warranty Void):
We do not recommend operating woofers at this level of power. In this zone, there is a very high probability that the driver will fail due to excessive heat and/or mechanical stress.
Subwoofer drivers operated at these levels of power are NOT covered under warranty. "
On another note, to further correct the gentleman from above.
Clipping occurs when an amp recieves TOO MUCH power and the signal reproduction reaches a limit at which all frequencies are capped to the same level, AKA a loud, irritating, and driver/amp destroying "POP". (99% of the time this is caused by an improperly calibrated gain control) A amplifier will NOT! clip because of too little power. It will not do anything other than feed less power to the drivers. If your electrical system is shotty than its possible that the power to the amp is being interupted and the amp is simply turning off and on. Or if your amp is overheating due to poor gain calibration or overpowering; it will shut off.
But back to the OP.
Feel free to PM me for any amp specific questions you may have.
The only thing you need to buy seperately for the bp1200.1 is a subsonic filter.
Be careful not to listen too much to other peoples advice though because 80-90% of what you hear will be from people who are uneducated or uninformed, and are not fit to help you build your system.
Your #1 best bet it to research all of the information yourself and study the specifcation and formulas to build a system that is great.
Now for some gloating.
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