good system for a kj?

O_Dogg · **Posted:** Sun Oct 08, 2006 10:56 am

i have 2 12w3v2's one is popped (dog stepped on it in back of old truck) and was wondering if this would drown out the factory speakers

2 12w7's on a bp1200.1 ran in series in a dual 12 slot port box with 1.8cu ft of free air space tuned at 38hz, or should i just get another 12w3 and run it off my alpine v12 mrv-t503 and 300w bridged in series?

also i need to know if i am running 300w into each or is it 150w into each if it is bridged and ran in series on 4ohm subs?

here are the specs for the alpine

300 Watts Bridged @ 4 ohms
* 150 Watts x 2 Channels @ 2 ohms

i was told i could run a bp1200.1 on these amps and pull crazy spl. but i am mainly looking for good SQ with enough SPL to be noticed :wink:

i ran this setup in my 96 eclipse and it was very loud (alpine and JL's) most of the time the mirrors were useless :twisted:

JMLoughrey · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2006 4:28 pm

For the W7's to properly power them you'd need to run a bp1200.1 to each of them.

I personaly would say go with the 12w3v2's with the smaller alpine amp, unless you get new speakers and amp them with a good quality 4 channel amp the w3v2's will most likley drown out the factory speakers pretty good. With this system you should be able to run it without any further upgrads aside from new speakers.

If you do go with the W7's even with a single bp1200.1 amp i would highly reccommend looking into getting a HO Alternator and an Optima Yellow top. You'll want an alternator that puts out ATLEAST 200A.

The W7's are very power hungry subs.

As for the alpine amp that does 150x2@ 2 ohms or 300x1 @ 4ohms bridged: You will only get 150w per sub bridged, the 300w is split between the two subs, not multiplied per sub.

Check the voice coil configuration on the w6v2's and i'll let you know what you're best option wiring wise would be.

O_Dogg · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:37 pm

pretty sure it is the same as the w3's on the jl site it shows 8ohm and 2 ohm wiring diagrams. they are at 2 ohm from the factory. but my subs and amp have been outside for about a year now, in the shed, and i know one is shot. so should i replace the entire setup? amp and 2 new subs? or new amp and one sub?

JMLoughrey · **Posted:** Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:21 am

do whatever your bank account can afford.

Just remember to take into consideration what kind of power your new amps may possibly want and if your liberty can take it.

I know some models have the 106A (something like that) and other models have the 160A alt from factory, find out what size your alternator is. Without the proper charging system you're amp will never put out the power it possibly can put out and will just clip and send actual voltage to your subs. If you go with W7's they'll either last you forever or die fairly quickly, they dont take a clipped signal very well...no sub does.

O_Dogg · **Posted:** Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:29 am

JMLoughrey wrote:

do whatever your bank account can afford.

Just remember to take into consideration what kind of power your new amps may possibly want and if your liberty can take it.

I know some models have the 106A (something like that) and other models have the 160A alt from factory, find out what size your alternator is. Without the proper charging system you're amp will never put out the power it possibly can put out and will just clip and send actual voltage to your subs. If you go with W7's they'll either last you forever or die fairly quickly, they dont take a clipped signal very well...no sub does.

how would i find out which i have, it doesnt say on the build sheet. but somewhere on a vin checker it said heavy duty Alt. so i would assume they meant 160a? i looked on the Alt. and it doesnt state the amperage. if i have to ill write the part numbers down and try to find out.

sqliberty · **Joined:** Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:08 pm **Posts:** 207

Renegade has the 160 in it and you can run a pretty big system off it, I would however upgrade to a better battery, Optima,Kinetik, or something like that. Check out my system on the car stereo.com link in my sig.

O_Dogg · **Posted:** Fri Oct 13, 2006 9:57 pm

so a red or yellow top depending on the wattage of my system?

probly yellow top and be done with it for good

unixxx · **Posted:** Sat Oct 14, 2006 1:42 am

I'd get a Yellow Top, they have a little less cold cranking amps than the Red Tops, but a little more reserve capacity. The Yellow Top is also certified by Optima for deep cycle use, while they specifically say the Red Tops "....are not recommended or warranted for use in deep cycle applications."

JFortier777 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 16, 2006 1:02 pm

The BP1200.1 is a perfect match for 2 12w7s.

Ignore what that other fellow said.

The BP1200.1 puts out 1440 WRMS and the 12w7s are rated for 750WRMS each.

Thats 1500 total, and at 1440 WRMS you are hard pressed to find a closer match.

The 12w7 can handle the 1440 watts in a controlled situation, but you said you just wanted the SPL to be heard and the SQ for your own enjoyment; which will be achieved with the pair of drivers and one amp.

One BP1200.1 will give you that, and it will last forever. (I've owned 4 of these amps and never had one fail regardless of any abuse I could dish it.)

At 1.5 ohms in series parallel you would be a PERFECT match for the bp1200.1 which is stable down to 1 ohm and puts out a constant 1400wrms anywhere between 1-2 ohms.

According to what I have just explained, this puts you in JLaudios yellow power classification.

Taken from: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs ... page_id=35

"Yellow (Optimum):
This zone represents the best compromise between long-term reliability, high-output and low-distortion performance and is centered on each woofer's continuous power rating (as published in its specifications). In this zone, you will be taking full advantage of the woofer's optimum, low-distortion performance range without undue risk of failure. "

If you were to decide to put one bp1200.1 on each you would place yourself in the middle of the following two categories. (If you are not a seasoned audiophile this will completely destroy your drivers and amp.

"Red (Danger Zone):
Low-distortion output and long-term reliability will be compromised (especially by an aggressive user). Slightly more SPL might be gained by pushing the power into this zone, but typically not more than 2 dB, when compared to the yellow zone. The closer you are to the black zone, the higher the likelihood of driver failure. Operate with caution: burnt voice coils are not covered under warranty. "

"Black (Warranty Void):
We do not recommend operating woofers at this level of power. In this zone, there is a very high probability that the driver will fail due to excessive heat and/or mechanical stress.

Subwoofer drivers operated at these levels of power are NOT covered under warranty. "

On another note, to further correct the gentleman from above.

Clipping occurs when an amp recieves TOO MUCH power and the signal reproduction reaches a limit at which all frequencies are capped to the same level, AKA a loud, irritating, and driver/amp destroying "POP". (99% of the time this is caused by an improperly calibrated gain control) A amplifier will NOT! clip because of too little power. It will not do anything other than feed less power to the drivers. If your electrical system is shotty than its possible that the power to the amp is being interupted and the amp is simply turning off and on. Or if your amp is overheating due to poor gain calibration or overpowering; it will shut off.

But back to the OP.

Feel free to PM me for any amp specific questions you may have.

The only thing you need to buy seperately for the bp1200.1 is a subsonic filter.

Be careful not to listen too much to other peoples advice though because 80-90% of what you hear will be from people who are uneducated or uninformed, and are not fit to help you build your system.

Your #1 best bet it to research all of the information yourself and study the specifcation and formulas to build a system that is great.

Now for some gloating.

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145.8dB

good system for a kj?

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