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Master On/Off
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=56386
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Author:  riptricket [ Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Master On/Off

Would it be possible to have a "Master" on/off switch in the cab so that even with the key, one could not start the kj without flipping the "Master" switch?

Author:  teckman02 [ Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

why would you need that

Author:  riptricket [ Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

oh... you know now...
WHY NOT!

Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

you mean, like a battery disconnect? or do you mean a simple kill switch, similar to a chauffeur switch that interrupts the ignition signal

there's been several variants of this over the years, some involved a simple toggle, toggle = ON switch works normally, Toggle = OFF switch doesn't do spit

or, momentary switches that you had to press in while turning the key in order for it to juice the starter etc

Author:  VoodooMann [ Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

You could run some very heavy gauge wire from the battery cable into the cab then out back to the battery and run it that way. Or you could find the sense wire from the ignition, cut it and install a switch behind the panel under the steering column.

Author:  audiboy86 [ Wed Oct 20, 2010 11:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

I think Vodoos idea would probably be the safest and most reliable. Heavy gauge wire and most toggle switches dont go well together. Plus with the wiring diagram the Ignition switch would be easy to isolate and to locate the switch inside the cab. And why would you need this?

Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Thu Oct 21, 2010 1:09 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

key in the ignition anti-theft i suppose?

for purposes of leaving the ignition on for charging cell phones or whatever.. can't think of why your KJ would operate in that way though most of them prior to 05 seem to have on-always cig lighter ports

in that case would be better to interrupt the starter signal

Author:  riptricket [ Thu Oct 21, 2010 1:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

vehicles have been getting stolen in my area recently, and I just want one less deterrent or form atleast.
I know that in my 05 without the chip it no starty, but I guess they have been working around that and stealing all sorts of cars i.e. bmws, toyota camry (of which my sister has and won't even open the doors without the key chip)
And plus it would be really cool to not have to worry about it starting up and rolling away without you in it!

Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Thu Oct 21, 2010 2:54 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

put a switch interrupt on the starter signal

people don't steal doo doo that won't turn over

Author:  JL Rockies [ Thu Oct 21, 2010 2:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

Do you have an automatic or manual transmission?

Author:  riptricket [ Thu Oct 21, 2010 4:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

auto... never taught stick

Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Thu Oct 21, 2010 4:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

"so to speak"

Author:  JL Rockies [ Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

OK give me a bit. I have an awesome idea for auto trans we used to put into show cars that needed the key on to show off the audio systems but the owners did not want their cars driving off during car shows.

Stay tuned for bad-assedness and pimpination.

Author:  Zack A [ Fri Oct 22, 2010 9:41 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

maybe this will be cheap and easy so we can all have "bad-assedness and pimpination" :mrgreen:

Author:  JL Rockies [ Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

I can't gauge everyone's expertise in 12V wiring, for someone like me with a blackbelt in the 12V arts, it's easy. To do this project, you'll need the following tools:

wire connector crimper (wire nuts are not acceptable)
a digital volt meter or low current test light (the kind that plug into lighter)
a couple "scotch locks" (red)
assorted butt connectors (red, yellow, blue)
16ga or 18ga wire long enough to make 2 runs front to back of the KJ twin lead (speaker wire) is perfect for 1 run
you only need to runs for the enthusiast option
two (SPDT 30 amp relays) or more for the enthusiast option
spade terminals that fit onto the relay terminals (unless you found relays with sockets)
3 ft or so of 10ga wire (or whatever matches ignition wire gauge)
toggle switch (not needed for enthusiast option)
ring terminal for ground
electrical tape
wire ties
wire cutter/stripper

There are different locations wires can be found, I am listing these locations because they are the "easiest".

Pull your driver's side tail light and with your meter identify the wires that go to 12V when put into reverse and the one that goes to 12V when the brakes are applied. **NOTE** you don't need brake wire unless you're going with enthusiast option. Use your scotchlocks to connect your twin lead to these wires (separately not shorted together). Run your wires you just connected up to the DS footwell and drop the under dash (the part you knees stare at all day)

Go to the steering column and locate the ingnition harness. It will be the one that starts where you put your key. There will be several wires there but you're looking for true ignition which is most likely red w/ dk blue stripe. **NOTE** THIS WIRE CAN BE DIFFERENT IN YOUR RIDE!!! VERIFY WITH YOUR METER!!! The way you can identify true ignition is it's the wire that goes to 12V when you turn the key to the "on" position and stays energized through the start cycle. Accessory will drop during the start cycle and retun once the KJ is running again. Ignition wire will not show voltage when the key is off. Once you are sure that you got your wire, here's the scary part.... cut it. **NOTE** you need to crimp a butt connector on either side of the wire you just cut... make sure that there's enough slack to work with! Once this wire is cut, try to start and the starter should run but no engine start.

Take your 3ft 10ga wire and crimp either end to the butt connectors you crimped onto either end of the ignition wire you cut. You should now have a big loop, go ahead and start the KJ to verify your connections are good electically. If there are problems, now is a great time to find them.

Now would be a great time to figure out where you want to put your toggle and mount it **NOTE: not needed for enthusiast option. One terminal needs to be gounded. You have a couple of choices here; you can use a ring terminal and a self-tapping screw to bare metal or remove a factory ground bolt slide your ring terminal onto the stud and retighten or using a Scotchlock to connect to the lighter ground wire. The other wire on the switch gets routed to the gathering of other wires you have.

Grab you electrical tape, lay your loop flat against the rest of the harness and start wrapping. Yoy want to cover-up the connections you've made so it looks as "normal" as possible. Looks are everything in security. You can stop once the area you were working is neat and covered.

Now you'll need your relay because this where the fun begins! First, take your loop and cut it. Connect either side to terminal #87a and the other side to terminal #30 on the relay. It doesn't mater which side goes to which terminal. Connect the reverse wire to terminal #85 on the relay and the toggle switch wire to terminal #86. Make sure that terminal #87 (not used) is well insulated.

Testing:
Turn you toggle switch "on" and then start the KJ **NOTE** please be seated as if you're ready to drive. With your foot on the brake put the KJ in reverse and when you do, the KJ should shut off. Put it back into park and start 'er again. If working properly, everytime you put it into reverse, the KJ should shut off. Turn your toggle switch off, and the KJ should operate normally.

Button up:
Once your wiring has passed the test, wrap-up the wires with electrical tape so they don't draw attention tuck the relay up somewhere hidden and secure with wire ties.

Application:
When the circuit is "on" whenever the reverse lights come on, ignition will be interupted. Even if the vehicle is put into D, the selector still has to go past R which make the light go on momentarily. The KJ will always start when put into park but shut off again when put into gear. This works great if you wan to leave the enging running while you run into the store or warm 'er up in the morning if you don't have a remote start.

How it works:
Inside the relay is a coil and a magnetic switch. The coil is energized when there's +12V AND ground on terminal 85 & 86. Your switch provides the ground and the reverse wire provides the +12V if your switch is off, there's no ground and no action. When the coil is energized, it created a magnetic field which throws the switch.
When the magnetic switch is at rest, terminal 87a and terminal 30 are connected and a completes your ignition wire loop. When the coild gets energized, the mag switch throws and terminal #30 is now connected to terminal #87 which is connected to nothing and breaks the ingnition loop.

Stay tuned for the more complex enthusiast option and possibly a manual option.

PS. Do this at your own risk, it's totally not my fault if you get in over your head m'kay?

Author:  JL Rockies [ Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

darn.... I read though this and found crazy typos.... I guess I can wire better than type.

Author:  Zack A [ Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

JL Thanks for the write up. We have this system on our ambulances at work after a county next to use had a few stolen while on calls. The only difference is we have them when you hit the brake paddle it cuts off. How can I have it to cut off when you hit the brake? This count been done under $10-$15 dollars easy.

Thanks again

Author:  riptricket [ Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

wow! I like it though.

Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Fri Oct 22, 2010 4:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

good words JL
:)

sort of reminds me of a relocated neutral safety switch

Author:  JL Rockies [ Fri Oct 22, 2010 11:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Master On/Off

Zack A wrote:
JL Thanks for the write up. We have this system on our ambulances at work after a county next to use had a few stolen while on calls. The only difference is we have them when you hit the brake paddle it cuts off. How can I have it to cut off when you hit the brake? This count been done under $10-$15 dollars easy.

Thanks again



Sorry guys got crazy busy at work. Yeah, you can do everything I wrote up except you don't need the reverse wire. Plug the brake wire to where I told you to put reverse. When the toggle switch is "on" the ignition will cut whenever the brake is applied. My only problem with something like this is the possibility of the switch flipping when you're driving and the engine shutting off suddenly when the brakes are applied. Sudden loss of power braking and steering can be dangerous.

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