Both readings are correct. The EGR is on at idle in normal conditions and then shuts off after one minute of idling. The explains the large difference in readings. You want the reading with the EGR off to give some direction on rocker health.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Argh. Yea. I will put in the order to ID this morning. I don't think the rockers will be that big of a deal, just time consuming. The smell of my exhaust has turned quite acrid, where usually it smells sweetish.

You gotta have good vacuum to make boost and work brake booster. Sounds like you got a big old vacuum leak.
Check vacuum at VNT actuator at idle. Should be at least 22". Source should be 26-28" all the time.
Get that TB done ASAP. Rockers are probably ok unless u hear popping thru intake w/unhooked charge pipe, or faint popping out exhaust at ilde.
Get the EGR deleted or at least unhook maf plug to put it in open loop w/o EGR mess.
Jeff

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'05 CRD, Suncoast TC, Eaton TT Diff, RocketChip Stage 2, EGR delete, too many other upgrades. Clean Diesel Racing Project.

Parts ordered. Gonna get a rental for the week. By the state of the elbow past the throttle body when I did the EGR it's probably gunked to sh it inside. I will also check all the vac lines when I have Libby opened up. I will keep everyone posted as to my progress during the week.

I appreciate all the help, folks. All your positive thoughts...

JD

Ok, Libby's in my garage, and I've opened the engine up to expose the timing belt.

At first glance I thought not too bad looking, then I noticed an intermittent sheen on the facing edge of the belt, like a tire with bits of steel just peeking through. It certainly must be the original, for I can see green marking paint on the idler pulley bolt heads. I also can see a hairline split on the belt just round the tensioner. There seems to be a fine dust on everything. It is bone dry in there and the cover was snug, coming off with with the sound like taking the lid off a preservative jar. The belt had definitely stretched somewhat, as the tensioner alignment marking is almost out of that notch window. It also looks like the belt is slightly cupped. I will take a series of pictures before I go further.

So I've got a bit of a snag. I've had a bit of an ATF-4 leak on the bottom of my transmission cooler. I called the stealer and he quoted me $1700 for a replacement. Anyone heard such an extreme cost before for that particular unit? The parts guy doesn't seem to believe me that they are an integrated unit. I haven't discharged the AC coolant yet. I called the rad shop and they said $80 to weld it, but it's a gamble for it might be more damaged than it looks.

Comments?

My comment probably would trigger an extremely bad language filter so I won't comment.
1. on the KJ CRD the transmission cooler is in the bottom of the AC condenser. I'm pretty sure the PN is 5183561AA and they run ca. $300. Replacement labor I'd guess 4-5 hours plus the cost of redoing the AC charge. Off hand I'd say that dealer is at least $700 over the top.
2. that said the most common cause for a leak is the quick disconnect fittings and it can be hard to tell as air flow causes fluid to move around a lot. IIRC the fitting can be undone, cleaned and refit possibly with new "O" rings or in some cases you can get new aftermarket fittings.
3. or you can just chuck the whole thing and bypass tranny cooling to an auxillary cooler just behind the grill for under $100 and 1-2 hrs of your time. See options at http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transcooler.htm ; http://colorado4wheel.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45 ; viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62013&p=686385&hilit=cooler#p686385 ; and viewtopic.php?f=5&t=69453&p=742547#p742547

Option 3 probably gives you better tranny cooling that stock.

PS the parts guy is an idiot. All OEM tranny coolers I've ever seen are "integrated" although I'll concede they are usually integrated in the bottom of the radiator not AC condenser.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks, Papa. I concur the parts guy being a bit of a douche. Anyways, time is of the essence, so I popped the AC, bagged the unions, popped the clips on the tran cooler, drained the ATF-4, placed a tarp in the back of the rental and down the road I went to drop off the three of them (rad, cac, and AC/trans) and I have my fingers crossed...

Ok, I've broken out the miller tools, and watched the YouTube vid a few times through on getting in the lock pins. While the instructor says the flywheel lock pin is too short , 1089, I've found that because it has a tapered head you can use it to find your alignment for the intake and exhaust. There are definitely spots for the two cam locking pins to seat. My timing was definitely sloppy; I had to incrementally wiggle for about a half hour to get the exhaust pin to seat smoothly. The instructor on the you tube video is also vague about being 180 degrees out. I originally thought this meant that it was the cam sprockets, but the flywheel is probably twice the circumference of the cam sprockets. I used a drill bit gauged to the diameter of 1089 and it seated deep and snug. I feel confident to go on to the next phase of the tear down, after photo referencing the amount of tb teeth between each sprocket, and reference marking.

The rad guy also suggested an aftermarket trans cooler, for he was worried about destroying the cooler attempting to weld the crack. I told him to give it try anyways. A small gamble.

In the YouTube video the instructor points to the only witness mark on the injection pump that has a corresponding on the timing belt casing. Mine doesn't line up, being 80 degrees out. Is this an issue?

Ok, got it to line up. The variable ratios dawned on me and I pulled out the lock pins and spun the tb through 360 more degrees lining it up. I also decided against the drill bit, and spent the better part of an hour working 1089 into place. I then removed the cam locking pins and tried to turn the crankshaft. With the drill bit there was play; with 1089 it won't budge and the cam pins screw in smoothly.

I proceeded to 1085 the cam cogs and cracked the bolts, then continued with the tear down. The idlers had both sprayed some grease. The tb definitely had edge wear, and probably had stretched. I can see the new belt being a tight fit. One interesting thing; the rear timing belt cover is partially covered with stress fractures. They don't match up fron the inside to the out, but the inner surface just below the cam cogs is rough/coarse to the touch. I feel I should get some 300 grit on the orbital and buff it.

The cover is just that, a dust cover.

If you want to spend hours more than you are already going to buffing it out, then it's your time to spend, but I think you're making a bigger mountain out of a mountain at this point.

Make sure you clean the intake well after you get it off.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Don't worry about the fuel pump timing mark(s) just mark one of the gear teeth and the adjacent housing and keep those marks lined up when you put on the new belt. There is lots of chat about that timing mark, I have no opinion on how much fuel pump timing matters, but the main point is it only lines up like every 3 engine revs so it's a real hassle to get it lined up and all the pins in at the same time, not worth the bother IMHO.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Well, I did get it lined up, but I'm now on towards the cylinder head and seeing what a mess it is in there with the rockers. Tonight I remove the fuel lift pump, throttle body and elbow, harness, rail and injectors.

I am going to start labeling and photographing everything. I feel confident enough, having gone this far in.

I will keep posting as to my progress.

Remember that IIRC there is an electric plug (think it's the # 4 injector) that can easily be mixed up with an identical nearby one.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Ok, the tear down is complete, and the rockers are....pristine. Besides being covered with black oil, there was no slop whatsoever in any of the rollers. I removed each one and cleaned to inspect. I can now take the previous (original) owners' word on using only synthetic 5/40 to which I have also never deviated.

Anyways I am too tired to go into details tonight. More tomorrow.

A quick recap.

No problem getting the rail, lines and injectors out. The seal rings on #2 & #4 are damaged and will need to be replaced. All the injectors had what I can only describe as greasy ear wax around them, plus whatever dirt had fallen down around the clamps. Probably leaking seals. A note to anyone doing this job to just buy the seal kit for the injectors. I've got them ordered on priority courier, but they most likely wont make it here by tomorrow. The rocker rollers are all right and show no signs of wear. Neither the cams. I was happy to see the lock pins sitting snugly in their spots when I flipped the head over. The intakes are all caked, with one at #4 being almost completely covered over with the oil/soot tar. It will be a bit of a cleanup. The miller injector puller cradle won't fit over #4 as it stands too high relative to the back of the engine cavity. A pretty sweet tool otherwise.

More later...

So I think I have put together why my liberty was smoking, but with the teardown I am doing I might never know.

My reasoning is this:

My problems started about a month after I changed the EGR. Part of the teardown to get in there is removing the throttle body and intake elbow. When I originally removed it, the gasket was caked on so good it broke on removal. I was unable to get one quickly so I cut a gasket out of sheet gasket material and put it back together. I don't know what the torque specs for those bolts are, but for certain reaching in the side with my arms twistering around everything probably didn't help me get them tight. I remember smelling exhaust on the intake side when it was idling, and wondering at it. One of the back two bolts was practically loose when I removed it this time.

I felt it was a air/fuel mix mismatch, but no CEL and as to why I couldn't figure. This time in I will be able to get my torque wrench in there. We shall see. Tonight is cleaning night. Got the rocker package and have my fingers crossed as to FedEx delivering on time.

Ok. So I am into the cleaning phase. I must have remove a couple of pounds of goop with a spoon, then I went to gas to dissolve the and scrub out the rest. I used a stopper top from a bottle of construction chalk to plug the map hole, and carefully wadded paper towel amongst the cams to prevent slop. A nasty mess. I then righted the head and proceeded to clean the surface with Windex and a scrub brush. Not perfectly clean, but much, much better. I then loaded up the rental with a few of the ATF soaked pieces (skid plate, fan shrowd, lower coolant hose) and went to a local auto spray bay and pressure washed them down. I also got back the Rads, which were much improved.

Will start on the cylinder head this evening and hopefully start the rebuild tomorrow morning.

So I'm considering blocking out the EGR. Any opinions?