Oil Plug Stripped and Stuck - Suggestions

andrewvanh80 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:41 pm

I tried to change the oil on my new to me CRD. The dealership had installed the plug and stripped the pan. I was going to install a fumoto valve, but will tap and install a bigger fumoto now. Question is if anyone has a suggestion for getting the plug out. It just spins freely. Do I have to drop the pan?

Thanks for advice.

KJ 119 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:57 pm

Mabe try jamming a screwdriver between the bolt and the pan to help it work back out.
They lost your washer on the plug,which made them run the threads too far and stripped the pan.Happens all the time.

Change your own oil to avoid future problems.They probably used the wrong oil anyways.

Good luck.

andrewvanh80 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:25 pm

KJ 119 wrote:

Mabe try jamming a screwdriver between the bolt and the pan to help it work back out.
They lost your washer on the plug,which made them run the threads too far and stripped the pan.Happens all the time.

Change your own oil to avoid future problems.They probably used the wrong oil anyways.

Good luck.

Careful inspection does indeed show they lost the washer. I love mechanics (even the careless ones who just change oil).

I will get this out and probably re-tap the pan. How worried should I be about Al filings getting in the pan from the tap? Is it OK to tap without dropping the pan? I will probably run a gallon of oil through it to flush them out before refilling.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:46 pm

I believe the oil pan is a structural member so I don't know how easy it is to drop. The dealer tapped mine at one point and it wasn't a issue to leave it on the vehicle.

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LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:51 pm

Mine has been previously stripped also. I'm still in the process of trying to get my Fumoto to stop leaking. Word of caution...be CERTAIN you tap it with the tool at a perfect 90 degree angle to the pan. Whoever re-tapped mine had the tool slightly crooked...so the drain plug will not screw in and make flush contact evenly all the way around against the pan. Now it leaks all the time. :evil:

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 11:14 am

After running a repair shop for 14 1/2 years I used a lot of tricks, including the tricks mentioned above.
When all else fails, go to the hardware store and get a (best to use steel) pipe bushing and that size pipe tap. If you don't want to use a pipe plug, drill and tap the inside of the pipe bushing to the size you want to use. I like to mount a steel pipe coupling into my lathe chuck, screw in the bushing and bore and tap the pipe bushing in the lathe and face the sealing surface. If you can't use a lathe a drill press will work but not as well. Next bore the right size hole into the pan and tap it to the correct pipe thread size to fit the bushing. Flush out any chips in the pan by pouring in a quart or two of diesel fuel and use a rag on a screw driver to swab out any large chips near the hole, liquid flows down hill and all the chips that don't flush out will be at the taped hole. Clean off the threads of the pan and pipe bushing with automotive brake cleaner or acetone and test the fitt of the threads. If the threads look good you can use Loctite 290 to seal the threads and keep the pipe bushing from coming out. If the threads are crappy and look like they will leak, mix up some JB Weld and use it.
I plan to put the 1" NPT oil return for my Centrifuge into the side of my pan when I install it in the next few weeks.
On steel oil pans I have even brazed in the steel pipe plug for a fix. I might just do the brazed in pipe bushing on my rear differential cover, I like the PML rear cover, but I have other mods I want to spend money on.
If enough members want to have the pipe bushing fix readily machined to fit, I will create a drawing and look into having a member who does fabrication do the work.

Oil Plug Stripped and Stuck - Suggestions

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