LIFT PUMP AND AUTOMATIC BLEEDER MOD, LONG TERM RESULTS

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:11 pm

Link to the pictures here
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2285016/2

First part bleeder mod

This drawing is the bleeder mod.

This picture is looking at return connector and tee fitting at left rear of intake

This picture is looking at the bleeder and check valve.

Instruction:
1 Remove engine cover
2 Remove the 2 nuts holding the fuel filter housing to the firewall and lay down so to see left rear intake area.
3 Remove return hose from left bottom of return connector.
4 Install hoses and tee fittings to return connector, install return line to the center of tee, bleeder line to bottom of tee, short fuel line to top of tee and return connector.
5 Installed 3/16 x 1/2 hose to outlet of check valve. This act as a bushing to resize check to fit inside the 3/8 fuel hose.
6 Install outlet of check valve to 3/8 hose
7 Reinstall fuel filter housing to firewall.
8 Install bleeder kit as per instruction from Lube Specialist.
9 Cut clear tube along side of fuel filter
10 Heat end of clear tube in hot water and push on inlet of check valve while still warm. Make sure that the clear tube goes all the way on the check valve or it may leak.
11 Open bleeder valve about 10 turns
12 Pump filter head plunger to bleed the fuel filter through the tube to the return. You should see air bubbles and fuel going through the clear tube. Keep pumping on the plunger until fuel is clear of air. When done you can leave the valve open.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:12 pm

PART 2, LIFT PUMP INSTALL

This drawing is the illustration of the lift pump install

This is a picture of the lift pump installed. Note the inline fuel filter before the pump.

This is the wiring connection to number 5 termnial of the relay and battery ground. I had to add one foot of wiring each because the wire on the pump are short.

The lift pump can also be install underneath near the fuel tank. This is a quick and easy way for those who want to install it and be able to take out without a trace in case of warrenty.

1 Install 2 elbows and 3/8 barr fitting to the lift pump
2 Remove 3/8 fuel hose from filter head
3 Install inline filter to fuel inlet line.
4 Install inline filter to lift pump using short hose from filter kit.
5 Install 3/8 fuel hose (about 18 inches in lenght) to outlet of lift pump and inlet of filter head.
6 Zip tie lift pump down to wire bundle behind battery. Note: Use a section of heater hose or some other material between the pump and wiring to protect the wire bundle.
7 Add about 1 foot of wire to each lead of the pump. Note: It is best to use connectors that are soldered.
8 Install an eye termnial to ground lead and strip 1.5 inch on positive lead.
9 Remove relay and install wire down in the #5 slot and run wire to the side so bare wire won't touch other termnials.
10 Install relay all the way in with the wire coming out of fuse block in the front, then run down the right side.
11 Install ground lead to negative battery termnial.
12 Make sure the bleeder valve is open on the bleeder kit.
13 Since the pump is mounted high we need to bleed it by pumping the plunger on the fuel head about 10 times.
14 Turn the key to on and the pump should run 30 seeconds bleed most of the air out. If pump don't run or keep running with key on engine not running the pump is hooked to the wrong termnial. Number 5 termnial is inside one of the two larger termnial.
15 Start the engine and let the pump finish bleeding. The pump should stay on when the engine is running. Now is a good time to check for leaks
16 Enjoy the lift pump and automatic bleeder mod.

Parts List:

1 Fuel Head Bleeder valve Kit, http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/fr ... oductid=70
2 3/16 check valve. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/produc ... 5Fid=15641
3 Facet 40109 lift pump, available online
4 Two elbows, two 3/8 barb fittings and teflon tape. Home Depot, plumbing section.
5 Three feet of 3/8 fuel hose, Pepboys or Auto parts store
6 One foot of 3/16 fuel hose
7 Ten 3/8 hose clamps.
8 Purolator 3/8 inline fuel filters, This filter can be taken apart and cleaned when needed.
9 Two feet of # 16 wire and termnials and long Zip tie

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:09 pm

Looks good, thanks.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2007 2:14 pm

Special request- could you make the pictures smaller, just for me?

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:20 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Special request- could you make the pictures smaller, just for me?

If you click the link on the first post, it will take you to Car Domain web site. You then click on the pictures there to enlarge them. I hope this helps.

Pictures are fixed and larger now.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:54 pm

BlackLiberty.

Thanks for the pictures and diagram

I think Sam was pulling your chain :wink:

Joe

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2007 5:59 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

BlackLiberty.

Thanks for the pictures and diagram

I think Sam was pulling your chain :wink:

Joe

Bingo.

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2007 6:26 pm

That's cool, I think. You have just opened you bleeder, installed a check valve and ported it to the return line if I understand correctly.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 21, 2007 10:33 pm

Cowcatcher wrote:

That's cool, I think. You have just opened you bleeder, installed a check valve and ported it to the return line if I understand correctly.

That's right, and you leave it open all the time if you install a lift pump to automatic bleeding. I haven't bleed my CRD since the install and the tube stays clear as a bell from air.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:44 am

I finally figure out why the pictures was so small and fixed it. DO'H

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:56 pm

OK, a stupid question.

I thought that many complained that the long range pull of the OEM pump from the distant tank was part of the problem and the solution was to get the lift pump down lower to "push" fuel to the filter rather than pull it. Is this therefore the best location for the pump?

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Sep 22, 2007 1:36 pm

Cowcatcher wrote:

OK, a stupid question.

I thought that many complained that the long range pull of the OEM pump from the distant tank was part of the problem and the solution was to get the lift pump down lower to "push" fuel to the filter rather than pull it. Is this therefore the best location for the pump?

Yes it is recommend that the lift pump be install lower and close to the fuel tank. I installed it this way for testing purpose, but is working so well I will leave it that way. It's also great location to service the inline filter and take the MOD off in case of warrenty. With the lift pump and the bleeder mod, they work together to keep air out of the system by sending the air bubbles through the return before they can accumulate in the filter head.

Jeger · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 10:43 am

Do you have any concern with this setup and cold weather operation? I am thinking that with the return line from the filter unrestricted that it will flow so much fuel that the heater would be unable to heat it up. It probably wouldnt cause a no start unless you live in N Alaska, but perhaps it could cause some problems? Maybe an orifice in the return line would be appropriate? Or I suppose you could just close your valve a bit....

What do you think?

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:27 am

Jeger wrote:

Do you have any concern with this setup and cold weather operation? I am thinking that with the return line from the filter unrestricted that it will flow so much fuel that the heater would be unable to heat it up. It probably wouldnt cause a no start unless you live in N Alaska, but perhaps it could cause some problems? Maybe an orifice in the return line would be appropriate? Or I suppose you could just close your valve a bit....

What do you think?

The check valve goes from 3/8 to 3/16 so it acts as a orifice also. The fuel filter head stays full so I would think that the fuel will heat better.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:25 pm

Jerger.

I'm not certain but I think once the engine is running the pressure on the return hose may be greater then the pressure after the filter and therefore the checkvalve may be pushed closed causing all fuel going through the CP3 and getting warmed up there also:roll:

Just a guess though.
Joe

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:54 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

Jerger.

I'm not certain but I think once the engine is running the pressure on the return hose may be greater then the pressure after the filter and therefore the checkvalve may be pushed closed causing all fuel going through the CP3 and getting warmed up there also:roll:

Just a guess though.
Joe

The fuel does flow slowly from the fuel head through the check valve to the return which takes the air to the fuel tank. The check valve is needed to be sure that hot fuel doesn't come from the return to the fuel head under full throttle. The only way to tell for sure is to hook up a fuel pressure tester to the fuel head outlet and run the engine down the road from idle to full throttle to see if it goes from pressure to vacuuum. I don't think it does but I didn't want to take a chance so I used a check valve instead of an orifice.

UFO · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm

With a lift pump to slightly pressure the fuel head, even under full throttle you will not generate enough pressure in the return line to reverse the flow. My Mercedes has the exact setup at the filter head, with an 0.020" orifice instead of the check valve. Not that you are hurting anything -- I think it's a great setup, and I'm working on a similar implementation.

BTW, I bled my filter head this weekend -- the primer pump had started to feel a bit soft. I'm looking to replace that bleed screw with something that keeps the threads sealed with the bleed off the seat. When I used my MityVac on that bleeder it just sucked a bunch of air from around the threads. Russell makes a product called Speed Bleeders which are for brakes, but have sealant on the threads combined with a check valve in the fitting, so you loosen the bleeder, and pump the primer with no fear of sucking air on the return stroke.

I also cleaned my MAP sensor for the first time. It was completely encrusted with sludge. Yuk!

chrispitude · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:03 pm

This seems like a straightforward solution. I have to ask the obvious question - if it was a matter of bleeding off the highest point to the return through an orifice, why didn't they design it this way from the factory? Engineers may do silly things sometimes, but something doesn't add up for me.

- Chris

UFO · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:36 pm

chrispitude wrote:

This seems like a straightforward solution. I have to ask the obvious question - if it was a matter of bleeding off the highest point to the return through an orifice, why didn't they design it this way from the factory? Engineers may do silly things sometimes, but something doesn't add up for me.

- Chris

I think it's fairly obvious: They didn't want the expense of a lift pump since the injector pump is spec'd to pull a vacuum. Probably an accounting decision.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:48 pm

If adding a lift pump cost $100 per vehicle times 11,000 vehicles equates to $1,100,000. We lose! :evil:

LIFT PUMP AND AUTOMATIC BLEEDER MOD, LONG TERM RESULTS

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