Inline thermostat

CobraDreaming · **Joined:** Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:24 pm **Posts:** 20

Received my inline thermostat housing yesterday. It had no instructions with it. Did everyone else that has this not receive instructions as well or am I just special?

Maybe I'm over complicating it. Is that rubber O ring (for lack of a better word) all that is needed? No gasket between to the 2 halves. Any thread sealant? How much to tighten the 2 halves? Things like that.

I don't have a thermostat for it yet so perhaps things would be more clear then?

wfd1350 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:53 am

Yes, all you need is the o-ring. Orient the thermostat as it was on the factory housing and then install o-ring. I hand tightened mine and have had no issues.

cerich · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:10 pm

remember to drill a hole in the t stat

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:29 pm

Per arengant "purchased a generic 195 degree Chevy thermostat from Napa (used a 1990 Chevy K1500). Before drilling the bypass hole, it took a few extra moments to open fully, causing the temp to spike. I disassembled, drilled a 3/32" hole in the outside edge of thermostat and reinstalled. Now everything works great! I cut about 2” total off of the upper radiator hose, and bought two hose clamps. The whole project can be done in about 30 minutes easy."

As far as I know the install is working fine. I might be inclined to go with a slightly bigger hole, maybe 1/8". It's been decades since I did this when working on small block Fords as a method to keep a failed shut tstat from catastrophically overheating the engine so I don't really recall the size drill we used way back then.

arengant · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:50 pm

I did use RTV, water pump (I think grey) but I couldn't get them apart later (by hand) so it will be interesting when it comes time replace the chevy stat.

Oh and I DO think I used a 1/8th bit.

Yep, no instructions, use the o ring, it wraps around the stat.

Don't forget to drain your coolant a little, and after you cut your hose, you'll have to rotate a little to get it to fit. Any other questions just ask

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

I've had mine in for bout a year now and zero problems. I'm very happy. Sure beat the price of a stock unit.

yrkcrd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:26 pm

Does anyone have a part number or a link to what they used?

Thanks

Siardi · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:55 pm

yrkcrd wrote:

Does anyone have a part number or a link to what they used?

Thanks

http://www.meziere.com/searchresult.aspx

You can get it from amazon.com, as I understand they have the best price.
And

a generic 195 degree Chevy thermostat from Napa (used a 1990 Chevy K1500)

yrkcrd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:51 pm

Siardi wrote:

yrkcrd wrote:

Does anyone have a part number or a link to what they used?

Thanks

http://www.meziere.com/searchresult.aspx

You can get it from amazon.com, as I understand they have the best price.
And

a generic 195 degree Chevy thermostat from Napa (used a 1990 Chevy K1500)

Thank you sir :JEEPIN:

Siardi · **Posted:** Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:03 am

You're welcome....

Glad I could help.

patmaz · **Joined:** Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:52 pm **Posts:** 134

Hi guys,pretty good infos here,but the link dosent say what model of adapter to get,size,inlet vs outlet,does someone have any info to guide me true that,thanks everyone. :wink:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:48 pm

In-line thermostat install per arengant on LOST. "Another successful inline thermostat customer. I purchased the Meziere WN0072 Inline Thermostat Housing from Amazon.com 1.5” diameter for 55 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Meziere-WN0072-In ... 131&sr=1-2

Then I purchased a generic 195 degree Chevy thermostat from Napa (used a 1990 Chevy K1500). Before drilling the bypass hole, it took a few extra moments to open fully, causing the temp to spike. I disassembled, drilled a 3/32 (later note from arengant says he thinks he actually did a 1/8" hole) hole in the outside edge of thermostat and reinstalled. Now everything works great! I cut about 2” total off of the upper radiator hose, and bought two hose clamps. The whole project can be done in about 30 minutes easy."

Copied from previous post.

arengant · **Posted:** Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:02 pm

papaindigo wrote:

In-line thermostat install per arengant on LOST. "Another successful inline thermostat customer. I purchased the Meziere WN0072 Inline Thermostat Housing from Amazon.com 1.5” diameter for 55 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Meziere-WN0072-In ... 131&sr=1-2

Then I purchased a generic 195 degree Chevy thermostat from Napa (used a 1990 Chevy K1500). Before drilling the bypass hole, it took a few extra moments to open fully, causing the temp to spike. I disassembled, drilled a 3/32 (later note from arengant says he thinks he actually did a 1/8" hole) hole in the outside edge of thermostat and reinstalled. Now everything works great! I cut about 2” total off of the upper radiator hose, and bought two hose clamps. The whole project can be done in about 30 minutes easy."

Copied from previous post.

You make my job so easy!

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2011 7:24 am

Did You Guys just leave the old thermostat in place? Since it seams to fail by opening to quickly thereby engine not coming up to proper temp, I can see no harm in leaving it in place. I think I understand that you just cut the upper radiator hose and remove 2" of it. Put this unit in with the proper thermostat temp. and 1/8" hole drilled in the stat and finish with 2 hose clamps? Should this be installed as close to the engine as possible or does that make any difference. If that is all correct, I am ordering mine tomorrow. My temp has droped a knotch on the guage and it is getting cold.

I have another related question. I do no believe I have ever heard my electric radiator fan run. I have never experienced any overheating issue here in Indiana even with the grill cover fully closed. How do I tell if it is working or is it one of those "who cares" things?

arengant · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:55 am

Scott Langohr wrote:

Did You Guys just leave the old thermostat in place? Since it seams to fail by opening to quickly thereby engine not coming up to proper temp, I can see no harm in leaving it in place. I think I understand that you just cut the upper radiator hose and remove 2" of it. Put this unit in with the proper thermostat temp. and 1/8" hole drilled in the stat and finish with 2 hose clamps? Should this be installed as close to the engine as possible or does that make any difference. If that is all correct, I am ordering mine tomorrow. My temp has droped a knotch on the guage and it is getting cold.

I have another related question. I do no believe I have ever heard my electric radiator fan run. I have never experienced any overheating issue here in Indiana even with the grill cover fully closed. How do I tell if it is working or is it one of those "who cares" things?

You DO want the inline next to the block. I cut the hose so the end on the inline housing TOUCHES the old stat, this will help transfer heat, allowing the new stat to open at correct time. I left my stock stat in, there was some concern that it might impede flow which would hurt in hot summer time climbing hills, but I made it cross country fully loaded in July with the temp NEVER going past halfway.

The electric fan isn't that important, what you need to make sure (when it gets hot again) is your mechanical one turns on. It will be loud, some say like a jet taking off, I say like a normal fan... But if it doesn't turn on, you can replace it with a Hayden unit. For winter, you can even remove the mechanical fan, keeps your engine warmer and does sap the little amount or power it would normally.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2011 11:30 am

electric fan is tied into the AC
(although AC comes on with defrost ect.ect)

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:40 pm

You have to leave the OEM tstat in place. The plumbing on that is critical to routing the flow of coolant from the block to 1) the bypass, 2) the viscous heater and then the cab heater; and 4) the "overflow" bottle, really the top of the radiator, on the firewall. We are fortunate that the failure mode on the OEM is open or opening early instead of the old days when all tstats failed closed (hence the old timers like me did the drill a hole in the skirt trick to keep water flowing on a failed closed tstat).

As a practical matter the purpose of the in line tstat is to force flow to continue thru the bypass and not the radiator until the inline tstat opens and the purpose of the skirt hole is to allow a bit of warming water to flow past the in line to heat it up gradually and avoid a temperature spike. Essentially the in line is standing in for the failed tstat in the OEM housing.

Yes I know that raises the question of can you gut the OEM housing of the OEM tstat and simply rely on the in line. Frankly I don't have a clue although I suspect that 1) you physically cannot get the OEM tstat out of the OEM housing without destroying the housing but 2) if you could I'm reasonably sure but not positive that the system would then function ok with just the in line.

wfd1350 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:37 pm

I gutted the factory thermostat, and welded the inline thermostat to the factory thermostat housing. I've been running it like that for the last 6,000 miles with no issues. Welded it to the housing to avoid the extra rubber coupling section, it's a clean and simple set up..

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:43 pm

wfd1350 wrote:

I gutted the factory thermostat, and welded the inline thermostat to the factory thermostat housing. I've been running it like that for the last 6,000 miles with no issues. Welded it to the housing to avoid the extra rubber coupling section, it's a clean and simple set up..

Nice idea. Picture?

wfd1350 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2011 5:21 pm

I'll post a picture asap. Also have second housing that I can modify the same way, that I'm willing to sell. Of course I'm biased, but I think its an great solution to our thermostat problems.

Inline thermostat

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