Folks,
I take pretty good care of my vehicles. I replace my anti-freeze every 2 years regardless of mileage thinking it would help extend the life of my radiator and water pump....I figured I was ok since at least 80% of my driving is highway driving and I figured I had less hours on my water pump then most folks who hit 100k.

Don't be me: I had a new OEM water pump available when my timing belt was replaced. I chose not to replace it to save time. Now I'm back tearing the $%^&*() out of my CRD to get at the water pump...NO FUN!

My water pump is shot: both bearings and seals are bad. When I rotate the pump pulley, the sound is similar to someone dragging their finger nails across a chalk board. I wonder if the bad bearings in the water pump could have worsened and eventually caused my timing to jump...I shudder at the thought.

Anyway, don't be me. If you gonna do a job, do it right the first time. Those of you who can get 200k miles out of a water pump, I envy you.

Anyway, if anybody wants help replacing their water pump, just holler. I'm 50% done and spent 4 hours today getting to it and removing it. On my next day off work (next Friday), I'll put her back together.

This concludes this Public Service Announcement.

Drewd

PSl. A big thanks to Sir Sam for being gracious enough to lend me his timing belt tools and expertise answering my stupid questions.

What do you think about leaving the "old" back of the pump in place and using the "front" from a new pump to make it easier and save time?

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

It would've made my life easier - having just replaced mine. Getting the three 8mm bolts off the back to pull it out of the way, in order to reach the studs holding the water pump, was a real pain.

Removing the bolts on the front, however, is a piece of cake - nothing's in the way.

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Can anyone suggest a reason not to take this approach other than if there is an early failure you might have trouble getting Chrysler to warranty it? (I have had my new OEM pump for over a year, sitting in the box, so my warranty has already expired.)

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

This is the first water pump failure I've heard of. Not that there haven't been others, but lots of people over 100k still on the original.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

What kind of coolant do you use, Drew? I am debating this question right now.....

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Figures... I think mine was stock for 165k miles and 6 years. Both the fluid and pump appeared to be working fine when I tore it down.

Your diligence inspires me.

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

First change of coolant, I used OEM overpriced fluid from dealershiop

Next change I used Zerox G05

After timing belt, I continued with Zerox G05 but used tap water instead of usual distilled water.

I did spin the water pump at 100k TB change and it felt fine....how can bearings go bad so quickly? The bearings were shot!

I tell ya, if I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all..

Damaged somehow when you replaced the belt? Belt too tight/overtensioned? I've not handled one yet so I'm not sure if this is even possible with the tensioner we have?

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

If you pay any attention at all to the tensioner instructions on the timing belt I don't see how you could over tension the TB. On the other hand bearings last until they go and those bearing spin fast. About the only warning sign would be a bit too much play and a bearing weeping grease, the latter is not visible unless the back TB cover is pulled and then you might as well pull the water pump and replace it.

I suspect bad luck but heh a bearing can go bad right out of the box.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Well, its done and is running great.

Couple of tips:
1. Use quality tools to remove the water pump bolts. Youll need a 1/4 inch flexible drive ratchet with a very short extension to remove the three 8mm bolts from the elbow attached to the water pump. The bolts heads get damaged easily and may make future install and removal difficult. I did convert the lower elbow bolt to a hex head one.
2. The paper gasket on the elbow of the water pump failed on me. I scraped it off and went with Permatex Right stuff....I have never had a leak or failure with Right Stuff and I should have used it in the first place but it is messy and hard to wash off your hands. I'm not sure why the paper gasket didn't work. I used gasket tack to tack it into place on the elbow and also on the other side to seal the gasket.....something happened and the darn thing leaked badly.
3. The timing belt is easily installed by moving the crankshaft CCW one tooth and then rotating it CW with belt installed to allow slacked belt to be installed over the tensioner. Having a second set of hands makes it a quick job. At first I screwed up by rotating crankshaft 2 teeth CCW but that was too much.
4. Use a hot glue gun to glue the exits holes for the square nuts holders on the radiator and intercooler...they will never fall out again.
5. Check transmission coolant lines for leaks. One of mine was leaking badly and my wife got it repaired at a local hydralic/hose repair shop for $50 dollars in less than an hour.
6. If you are replacing your water pump, take the extra time and replace your passenger side engine mount...its easier to do with all of the crap out of the way.
7. A great time to check your serpentine belt tensioner and decoupler pulley on the alternator. My alternator pulley decoupler is bad but I couldn't figure out how to remove it...a local shop wants 1 hour labor at $109 to remove the decoupler from the alternator....for a little bit more money, I can get a rebuilt one with warranty from a shop.
8. Zerox G05 is now sold at O'reilly's auto parts...no longer have to find a NAPA for it.
9. A ratcheting wrench will help on one of the heat shield bolts.
10. I broke one of the 8mm bolt that holds the front timing belt cover. The bolt sheared at very little torque value and I had to drill it out and time-sert a new thread. Might want to spray out the threads next time with brake fluid cleaner
11. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy a self-tightening hose clamp removal tool.
12. A good cordless drill is a great way to remove all of those tiny timing cover bolts.

Observations:
1. My Gates belt appears to be wearing poorly...not sure of alternator decoupler being bad has caused it to look worse in 7k miles than my old belt with 100k miles on it.
2. Sam's Club nitrile gloves suck. They tear very easily.
3. Safety glasses are a must if you are removing a transmission coolant line.
4. Turbo bearing play is virtually nil after 107k miles....I credit 1 minute turbo cooldowns (5 minutes if towing).

I have the Miller tool to remove that pulley. I'll make you the same deal just finished with another LOST member - if you pay for shipping (less than $5 from coast to coast by USPS) you can borrow mine if you promise to return it!


Outer cover? Yes, the torque is 6N-m, which most 1/2" torque wrenches won't do well if at all. There were so many little fasteners I used it as an excuse to pick up a 3/8" one that goes from 2-37N-m and has an electronic readout so you can do Ft-lbs, inch-lbs, etc also. Looked around to find one that covered most of the torque values required (except the few needing the 1/2 wrench). It was $109 at ntxtools.com - AC Delco ARM601-3.


Amen! Found a good source? (part #?)


If the pulley's going bad - it beats everything to death. Belt included.

Great write up.. thanks!

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

To be fair I was the one who tensioned the belt, and you know you can't trust me around these engines at all.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Sam, I tensioned the timing belt today the same way you did 7k ago. I just think it was the water pump's time to go Thank you again, for the assistance you provided me. Its great to have my CRD running again. 92k more miles to go (200k mark) before my wife lets me buy a new vehicle.

BTW, Whistler Bearing in Colorado Springs were the ones who rebuilt my transmission cooling line yesterday. They do great work.

Left on to do list; replace axle, steam clean interior, replace all diff fluids, new windshield, refinish hood, steam clean driveway of oil stains.

I use 8mm gloves at work since I find anything 5mm or less easily tears if they get snagged even slightly.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

Alternator decoupler pulley being bad will eat a serp belt and if your luck is really bad the $200 serp belt tensioner so get it replaced like right now. If you can borrow the Miller removal tool that's great but also Google "crd alternator pulley removal", looks like a number of folks have done it with a 17mm hex socket. $109 and 1 hr labor is absurd, if you bring them the alternator it takes like 5 minutes max, if the alternator is on the vehicle maybe 15 minutes max as the serp belt would need to be removed and reinstalled. Time to reinstall is like 30 seconds as it's a simple spin on no tightening needed. My memory may be badly off so check before doing a DIY job but I think removal is clockwise (e.g. reverse thread) but don't count on my memory.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

[quote="Drewd"]Well, its done and is running great.


8. Zerox G05 is now sold at O'reilly's auto parts...no longer have to find a NAPA for it.

My O'reilly's don't they looked at me funny when I asked for it. They checked the computer and it was not available I don't know why they wouldn't have it in a big city like Chicago. They asked the manger and he said just use the all coolent. So I just had to go to NAPA to get it.

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05 liberty Sport Black CRD,GDE trans tune, Stant 13519 thermostat , Samco Hoses, Weathertech mats, segr, K &N filter ,2nd gen fuel head, 2.5 inches lift, JBA A-arms, Roof rack,
99 Camaro Silver LS1 heads, loud mouth, fast as hell and just as fun!!!
It was stock when I got it but now It's mine!!
You only love it if you change it!!

Drewd wrote:

11. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy a self-tightening hose clamp removal tool.

Amen! Found a good source? (part #?) Yes, I sourced the part from my brother. He said you can get the hose clamp plier tool for 35 bucks from amazon.com but he spent a little more and purchased a 7 piece set for about a hundred bucks.

The Zerex G05 was right next to their Japanese Zerex formula coolant in my local O'reilly's. Maybe i got lucky and they ordered in some by accident. I bought several gallons for both of my CRDs.

My decoupler is starting to go...it makes noise at idle, there is some crud under the cap. It didn't free wheel as easy as a new decoupler until I blasted it with an impact wrench. Although I didn't get the pulley loose, the pounding of the impact wrench freed up the innards of the old decoupler and it declutches as easily as a new one now but I plan on replacing it soon for piece of mind. My old tensioner still works but I put a new one on so I don't have to worry about it for the next couple of years. Mark is lending me his decoupler tool so I'll have it replaced hopefully by next Sunday. I used to fly Chinooks and Sprag Clutches are used on the engine transmissions to allow the rotor system to overrun the engine during engine failure or auto-rotation. I never had one fail on me...wish alternator ones were built to last longer.

I checked the serp belt on my wife's GC CRD. She also got a new Gates put on it last summer when her alternator failed (oil leaked on it) at 36k miles. It looks as bad as the one on my Liberty....I thought Gates were the best?