I must be doing something wrong, or have some sort of bad part. I pumped the primer at least 20 times and the slowly opened the bleeder and nothing came out, no air or fuel. I tried about 3 times and figured I would post here to ask for ideas. I will be fooling with it later this evening, I just thought I would try it real quick before I took my kids to the movies, oh well!


tia Jon

Mine didn't act right the first time I fooled with it either. I kept trying it and eventually bled out a lot of air. On mine it seemed like the pump wasn't actually moving anything the first time I tried it.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Well, I got it bled. I had to pump the primer with the bleeder cracked. I got "some" air, not enough imo to cause the studder that I've been dealing with(with a very intermitant hard-start also).


The fuel that came out looks green.....I'll go out on a limb and say "that-ain't-good" I had the wife swing by Wally World while she was out and get some Diesel Kleen and I guess I should replace the filter as well.


Any thing else I should do?



Jon

Also I took some pics but I still need to learn how to post them so bear with me.

Color is not an indacation of quality, but most diesel is green. I use a 50 cetane + ULSD fuel that is green and the CRD needless to say loves the stuff.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

I was thinking it could have algae in it, I got scared because I try to run some bio in each tank and I read that algae will go nuts with bioD in there ( I have not had any bioD for a month and was about to put some in untill I saw green fuel!)



what does algae look like?, is it chunky, does it form at the top or bottom, or does it tint the whole sample?

I hope my fuel is ok!.....I just filled up!!!!

this is what the fuel looks like


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_im ... 1299_2.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_im ... 1299_3.jpg


is this normal?

ok I think the pics will show up now

Must be normal, same as I have from Hess. I think lots of us have air problem.

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

last 5 tanks (at least) from the same Hess

Up untill now #2 diesel always had pariffin in the mix, and this is what grows the "bugs" in the fuel. Now with ULSD you have almost no periffin due to the process of making the fuel ULS, and this is why everyone was worried about lubrication of pumps and injectors. The additives that the refinery or supplier adds to the fuel may alter the color some what or the fuel may be dyed for identafication. Bio-diesel on the other hand is an excellent lube and is high in cetane but has no sulfur, it does have a very bad habit of bacteria growth however. Both the old LSD that most here are using and Bio-Diesel need to have a biocide of some sort added to the fuel, and is usually done by the supplier not the refinery. Problem is lot of times these are done improperly or not at all, and joe smuck has an bio bloom.

From what I have been told the bio-diesel (B100) ( 1/4 to 1/2%) added to ULSD is becoming a common lube additive to ULSD, but that is just kind of hear say from a bio retailer. That same source says that with the ULSD beingh basicaly #1 diesel w/o sulfur will greatly reduce cold weather jelling and the need of much of the cold weather additives except in the very coldest of parts of the country.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Picture of bad fuel here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... highlight=

Green tint is fine. Cloudy with a green tint is bad.

Jet-A has almost no paraffin in it and can get algae, Prist is added to prevent freezing and algae blooms. I remember reading somewhere that the algae grows in the layer between water and fuel. Keep the water out and the algae can't grow.

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2006 Liberty CRD-SOLD
Dynomax 2.5 exhaust

While you are messing with this system, start looking for places where you could be sucking air. The primer pump is now your friend. Pump it several times to build some excess head pressure (bleeder closed) and look for leaks around the filter head. Gut hunch with that much air in the system that you will find fuel leaking out of the electrical connections for the fuel heater.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

The power-blend premium ULSD that I get from my local BP station is also green. So don't worry about color.

On priming, I don't know how you were able to pump it 20 times with the bleeder valve closed. Mine won't even pump any more than 4 or 5 times, then I open the bleeder valve, close the bleeder valve, pump again, etc. etc. until I get a steady stream of Diesel coming from my bleeder valve.

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

I can only guess that the air in the system was the reason that I was able to pump it with no resistance so many times. Once the air was out, it built up pressure very quickly and became hard to pump.


Maybe there was more air in there than I thought.

Exactly. You need to start looking for the source as I doubt your dealer will find it.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Reason why the pump gets hard is because with the key off, the pressure control valve on the rail is shut. with this being the case, once you continue pumping the plunger, you fill the pump and then the rail. Once it's full, fuel has no where to go so the pump gets hard. The plunger gets soft after you start the vehicle due to the fuel system being under suction versus under pressure from a lift pump as in other applications. It doesn't necessarily indicate air in the system if the plunger isn't rock hard.

Hmm...so I wonder if we can surmise what is normal by taking a poll. After plenty of driving and then sitting for a couple days (which is probably irrelevant), mine begins feeling resistance at the end of pump #4 and is fully resistant by pump #5.

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03/15/2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD w/86,000 mi. Engine lube pump, Provent, V6 airbox mod, Magnaflow, gauges, Amsoil all around, & Wix air filter. Sunroof drain blocked on receipt, stubborn fuel leak at 2200 mi, 3 jammed windows, & 1 bad alternator decoupler, but it's still a keeper!

I wasn't trying to bleed the system with the engine running. If there is a bunch of air in the system, you could pump that plunger till the cows come home, I pumped mine like crazy and there was no resistance at all, untill I got the air out, and the system was filled with uncompressable fuel(instead of air) at which point it became hard to push.

I think Mr Mopar was simply explaining the functioning to suggest that some number of easy pumps is normal before indicating air in the system, which at least I had previously misunderstood. However, it does sound like you've definitely got air in you case. Mine behaved similarly before getting it fixed.

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03/15/2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD w/86,000 mi. Engine lube pump, Provent, V6 airbox mod, Magnaflow, gauges, Amsoil all around, & Wix air filter. Sunroof drain blocked on receipt, stubborn fuel leak at 2200 mi, 3 jammed windows, & 1 bad alternator decoupler, but it's still a keeper!