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 Post subject: Trip computer
PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 10:32 am 
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On the other hand a couple people here have done the math against the trip computer and found it to be pretty accurate. I'm happy w/ the numbers I'm seeing for only having 3K miles on the CRD. Or at the very least it should be useful for comparison with itself. So you should be able to use it to tell differences from one tank to another. I'm running B25 in this tank (no D2 additives) and so far mileage is exactly the same (but it's all been stop-and-go commuting traffic). Computer says 24mpg.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 11:09 am 
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If it's your first tank of B25, might not actually be B25 if you blended outside the tank, depending on how much #2 you still had in the tank. If you did it by pouring in 5 gallons of B100 and then topping off with #2, I stand corrected.

But if you're buying retail at a gas station, and it's coming out of the pump preblended to B20 or whatever, it'll take at least a couple tanks to actually reach that concentration inside your fuel tank, flushing out the last of the #2 dino.

As far as the foaming, as far as getting a more complete fillup, would it cut down on the foaming if you topped off at say 1/2 tank instead of waiting until it hit 1/4 or the low fuel light? Or does it just depend on the particular pump and how fast you slam it in?

I'll definitely agree that fuel quality makes a difference. Back in August I helped some friends in Rock Springs WY move to the Austin TX area (he's retired Navy as well). Leaving Rock Springs, we filled up at a Flying J, and traveling to Laramie WY their CRD averaged in the mid to high 20's. At Laramie, we filled up at a Shamrock station, and averaged 32 mpg that tank. In Trinidad CO we filled up at another Shamrock station and averaged 34 mpg that tank. In Amarillo TX we topped off (7 1/2 gallons) at a Flying J and dropped back down to 28 mpg. At Fort Worth topped off at a Shell station and stayed in the mid to high 20's.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 12:07 pm 
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The difference if any in foaming between a 1/4 full or 1/2 full tank is probably no difference, it's just that diesel being a very light oil is whipped up by the pumping action as is gasoline, but due to the oily nature of the diesel fuel it just stays foamy longer. How fast it's pumped does have the effect making the foaming wose, but there is just not hardly any way to pump slow enough to prevent the problem. As for as how much the foaming effects the CRD I am not sure as yet, but I don't think we will have that much of a problem. That may be because of the shape of fuel tank and the filler neck.

The effect of high Cetane (50+) over low cetane (42 average) will greatly impact a diesel engine, and oe is a rise in mpg's, as will also running on Biodiesel. I just wish we had access to B100 so I could say to hell with the oil companys and their record proffets.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 12:16 pm 
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Yeah I noticed on my CRD that when the pump kicks off the foam is already at the top of the nozzle. And if I click once to try and top off the foam will start spewing out. It's pretty bad about that. But I can still drive almost 100 miles before the needle ever moves off "full" so I'm still happy. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 6:27 pm 
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LibertyCRD wrote:
Yeah I noticed on my CRD that when the pump kicks off the foam is already at the top of the nozzle. And if I click once to try and top off the foam will start spewing out. It's pretty bad about that. But I can still drive almost 100 miles before the needle ever moves off "full" so I'm still happy. :D


Sounds like my minivan. In the city/hwy driving combo, I hit 140 before the needle hits the full mark. I'm getting about 19-23 city/hwy combo. Best was 23 when I "restrained" myself to drive 55 and slow sooner and not do those jack rabbits starts. This was at night so the chance of getting shot by some irate detroiter for doing 55 in the slow lane.. Wished my KJ was so predictable.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 1:18 am 
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Well, finished off the first real full tank of B20, down to less than 1/4 back on Tuesday, went back to fill up and used same pump. Worked out to a 1 MPG increase over last tank.

oldnavy, in your experience, are any of the cetane boost diesel additives, such as Redline Diesel fuel Catalyst, worth a hoot? Or would I be better off just sticking with the standard anti-gel winter formula?

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'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 7:26 am 
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I use the Power Service brand that found at Wal-Mart and any major truck center. For the B200 fuel you probably don't need the cetane booster as much as you might need the antigel for winter. I use the Power Service anti gel in the white bottle pretty much year around and If I travel where I would be buying unknown fuel I take along a small bottle of the Power Service in the gray bottle to boost the cetane six points. Here is a link to Power Service home page and you can get the complete info on their products. Hope this helps.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 1:25 pm 
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Thanks for the info. Got a West marine store about 10 miles from the house, looks like I'll be paying them a visit this weekend. PS website says they carry the polishing kits.

Started this last tank adding 8 ounces of white bottle with a fillup. Especially now that I'm running B20, I'll get either the polishing kit or the biocide by itself and start adding that as well.

Especially need to treat my father's tractor. He hasn't done anything to it in the 3 years he's owned it, and the fuel in that thing is downright NASTY!

Hmmm, come to think of it, one of the polishing kits would make a nice Xmas present for my friends in Texas, they're up to 16K on their CRD and haven't been using any kind of fuel additives.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 3:20 pm 
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Make sure they have extra fuel filter handy when the cleaning starts, for sure the tractor. They may need to change the filter if it clogs with dead creapy grawly things.

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