I asked about a sound from the front of the engine recently and I can confirm that it is from the timing belt area. The belt along with everything else (excluding the fuel pump and cam gears) was replaced around 40,000 miles ago right at 100k miles.

I took out a few of the small bolts that hold the timing belt cover on and the sound gets more pronouced when the cover is pulled away, Check out the video.

Anyone else hear a sound like this, it has been doing this for some time now. If anyone has some time and can remove the small bolts in the cover and pull it away to see if it gets loud that would be awesome!

Really don't want to have to tear into it and take it down to timing belt replacement status and not have the parts to fix it but I am guessing thats what I might have to do if I cannot find any info on this. Or I can wait it out and see if she makes it another 40,000 miles.. Really just want to put miles on this thing and not have to work on it for a while!!


http://youtu.be/hliIrW6HM10
http://youtu.be/tw4AWfiuTnc

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

My bet would be bad bearing but which one? Before going in that far, yes I hear the difference with the cover a bit open but noise can be weird, pop the serpentine belt long enough to see if the noise goes away.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Sorry forgot the mention that I had the belt off, no change. I was really wanting it to be the serp belt!
When stuff happens like this, one thing after another it just makes me want to offload the thing again!
I just put a (your) turbo on it and also a lift pump this past weekend, I really would hate to give up now! I would feel defeated!
I just feel like this is one of the things that if I ignore it could be a catastrophic failure.

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

Oh well and yes ignoring this could become really expensive/time consuming.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Painemann, when I did my rocker replacement, I inspected the tb pulleys, and I've noticed one of them having more wear and tear than the other one. In other words, one seemed like new, one was spinning way too much and also had a little noise and very tiny bit of grease out on the rings. I had replaced mine with new about 25k ago, oem. Since it was still ok-ish (no play at all) and didn't have another spare, I put it back, thinking to keep an eye out for it, but my thought is that they aren't good quality. I would bet is one of your tb pulley. Side note, the tensioner seemed like new. I don't see what other thing could make that noise... if you took the serpentine belt out, take out the servo pulley and serpentine tensioner, the tb cover, get a long extension/screwdriver, put one end on the bolt (center) of the pulley, your ear on the other end and you should hear the noise amplified for the bearing that causes the noise.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Thanks for the input! I have of one of the fancy stethoscope (with a metal rod in place of the flat piece ha) like things used for this type of stuff. Bought it off the Snapon truck because it was old and dusty for cheap and never had a good reason to use it!

I never paid attention, you can get the belt cover off with only removing a few accessory components? While I hope it is simply a idler, it would be darn sad that I paid good money for OEM parts with little to no warranty and it is bad already!

I am going to check this soon! I will be cranky if I have to pull the belt, have to get the darn tools again. Is it possible to replace an idler with out loosing time, maybe have a helper hold tension and the tensioner is loosened? Wishful thinking!

We can meet at cedar point and you can hold the belt for me, I'll buy your park ticket ofcourse!
Thanks again for the idea!

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

You don't need to lock anything super rigid, all you need to do is make sure that belt stays on the can and crank pulleys. You could do this with small wedges of wood or even rags stuffed between the casing and the belt to hold it against the cam and crank pulleys. I wouldn't worry about small movements as long as the belt never comes off. You can use the allen key trick to work the tensioner.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

Ah, yeah I see. Thats what I will do if I need to replace something. My worry is that it is going to be difficult to find the bad bearing in the system with the little room I have to work. I just have a bad feeling that I will be messing around in there and I will knock a wedge out and loose timing, I really don't want to deal with having to re-time the thing!

I am going to have to remove a few of the accessory pulleys to get the timing cover off correct, what has to come off? I can't think of anything that would cause problems if I run the jeep while they are removed to see if I can find the bad bearing. I am trying to remember if I saved any of the old idler pulleys, I have a feeling I didn't! Would be nice to just put an old one in and see if the sound stops and then i can order a new one.

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

You really don need any special tools.
Just turn the crank till all the timing holes line up. You can use drill bits in the cam holes and
a long allen wrench in the flywheel hole as a reference point to make sure nothing moves.
Use a sharpie or paint pen to mark some timing reference points.
You can use a small clamp or vice grips to gently clamp the two cam sprockets together
to keep them from moving.
You could also clamp the belt to the cam sprockets to keep the belt in place (binder clips
could work for that).
Then loosen the tensioner. Nothing should move at that point. Not the cams or crank.
Then replace the idler pulleys.

The hard part will be getting the belt set on the crank when you set the tensioner.
Just be sure to hand crank everything through several cycles to make absolutely sure your
timing holes and marks line up before you ever start the engine.

I replaced my timing belt without any special tools. But I did not remove the cam sprockets
or replace the water pump.

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U.S. Army Retired

Sound's like a bad idler pully

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Silver 05 sport crd-Ehm,Orm,wix oversized oilfilter,shell rotell,2nd gen fuelhead,Fumoto oil drain valve,muffler delete,cat removed,V6 airbox swap,evic added,HVAC controls modded, Franken lifted II,hercules Terra Tracs 245/75/16,Full l.e.d. interior swap,hayden fan clutch and nylon fan