So a successful top end rebuild. I blocked out the EGR with copper flashing because the inside was so rude I don't want the engine to go through that indignity again. Unfortunately its back to the 0401, which is what i was trying to clear in the first place, but thems the brakes. I lost some nuts in the rads when they went to the shop, so I have a few left over bolts from the front end button up. My solution to my leaking trans cooler was to encase the spot in lead. I made a little masking tape form around the hole and cast it in. While it still leaks a bit, it is nothing like it was. I will have to go in again at a later date and do a proper replacement, but it can wait.

I think my smoking is gone. When I first took it out it coughed a few clouds, but then cleared up. I have the front end skid plate to reattach, but that's it. A good learning experience.

So I've put together a list of what to have to do a rocker arm replacement/100,000 mile service:

Garage space/work space
Good lighting 
Camera
Lots of Paper towel
Box of Nitrile gloves 
Good socket set, metric + extra extensions of multiple sizes
Drain pans for oils and antifreeze 
Spanners/wrenches, metric, long and short
Slide socket breaker bar
Torque wrench
Flat head screw drivers of variable lengths and sizes
Needle nose pliers
Channel lock pliers
Large crescent wrench
Headlamp/mini flashlight
Zap straps of variable lengths
Tie wire
Wire cutters
Masking tape
Sharpie marker
Zip lock baggies big and small
A good washdown cleanup area
Time (job took 60+ hours)
Shop vac
New timing belt
New idler pulleys
New timing belt tensioner
New timing cover gasket kit
New rocker arms (set of 16)
New head bolt set
New cam/intake gasket
New injector seals
New water pump
New thermostat
Grease
Creeper (not absolutely necessary, but really helpful)
Miller tools (#'s 1052, 1053, 1089, 9660, 1085, 9075 & 9673. cam and flywheel pins, tensioner tool, cam cog clamp tool, injector puller, head alignment pins.  Not absolutely necessary (??) as there are examples online of Mcgyvvers, but make the job much much easier)
Locktite
Garbage bags
Fresh oil (5/40 synthetic)
New filter, P95 or comparable
Fresh Antifreeze, not premixed
Distilled or reverse osmosis filtered water
Single cotton tip swabs, long stems
Single sided razor blades
Utility knife
Elastic bands (variety pack)
A copy of the FSM

What can I say? Everything went like clockwork on rebuild, and Libby runs smooth, but a few hiccups happened. Afterwards I went for a cruise to the next town to visit a close friend where there was a show and shine going on. Everything was good, until my alternator crapped out! I can tell you on a fully computerized system the whole dashboard lit up, one warning after another. I just managed to pull into my friend's driveway and it was shutdown. I had time on the way in with traffic to call my local parts store and order a replacement. Not a cheap unit. Also, my attempt to lead encase my trans cooler leak has failed, so I have ordered an aftermarket and thermostat bypass from OPT. It will be a squeeze, but I will fit it in. Means another opening up of the front end.

It was a bit of a squeeze getting your hand in with a 15mm wrench to work the serpentine belt tensioner, but Libby is back up to power. I was happy to see my mpg jump over 25mpg, a range not seen on my fleet unit for at least 5 months. The timing belt must have stretched a lot.

I have a series of pictures from my teardown and rebuild that I should post here, if I figure out how.

I forgot one item on my 'to have' list, which is rubber bands. I was bagging an labeling everything, and covering everything up that wasn't usually exposed when I was unbuttoning. Point in fact, I decided to remove the coolant reservoir to make more room in lifting the wiring harness out of the way. There must be a few baffle chambers in there for it looked empty, but when I tilted over to one side to unhook the coolant sensor a bunch of antifreeze came out and dumped right on to my turbo. Luckily I had bagged and elastic banded the ends so no moisture got in there. Zip lock bags and elastic bands kept me organized and covered up.

I took a good pic of my block out of the EGR pipe. I know people bit ch about the CCV, but diesel is an oil, and as far as I am concerned, in such small quantities, not an issue. The mixing in of the EG with the oil is the brutal engine killer. I am not going to invest the time into installing the cyclonic separator I purchased. I think for a cleaner burn I am going to start looking into propane injection.

Just catching up and found this. Good post. You stated that your rockers looked pristine. After you removed them and had a chance to inspect closer do you still think that? I am at 95,000 miles and am considering going back in and doing the rockers. My engine had the same oil as yours, no mods for most of its life, most of its life has been long trips but it sure is gunky in there.

If you have been running without a GDE tune or SEGR, even with ORM and 5K oil change intervals your rockers do not have a lot of hope at 95K miles.

However, if I were in your shoes, I would definitely do the MAF test to get an idea where I stood before jumping ahead to replace the rockers/lifters.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Thanks, spoon. I've been soaking my old rockers in synthetic, and have changed the oil once. When I wiped them between soaks, I gave them another good look. Besides a slight difference in manufacturing on them, I can't see a bit of wear. There is no slop in the rollers. There seems to be different opinions on this subject, with the belief that proper lubrication will make them last quite a bit longer. For your piece of mind, if you're going in to do the 100k servicing, it's only a little farther down the path.

My opinion is that your intake head, if you never GDE tuned or SEGRed, is probably gunked to f uck and you want to clean that up, like yesterday. I scraped a softball size ball of that shoe polish out of there. Nasty.