Leaking injectors?

Jpd686 · **Joined:** Tue May 30, 2017 12:14 pm **Posts:** 50

Hi there. Got a problem with my Jeep leaking fuel. It appears to be mainly injector #4. If there a way to tell if it is just the seal?? I would like to re seal them all just in case. There doesn't appear to be any obvious cracks. Other than leaking fuel it does not have any other symptoms. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jun 22, 2017 10:29 pm

Is the fitting for the return fuel fully seated, and the clip properly holding it in?
If you pull up on it with reasonably light force, it should not come out.
Are the return fuel lines dry?
If they are wet, there is a leak somewhere in the return lines.
If you need to replace the return line assembly, you can get a GM Duramax kit for a small fraction of what the Jeep parts cost.
If it's leaking from the high pressure line fitting, Re-torque the line to proper spec.
Be careful not to over torque, as that can collapse the fuel line diameter at the exit point.

NapaBavarian · **Joined:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:39 pm **Posts:** 129

I had a similar problem when I reassembled mine after major work, I went with the less expensive kit from o'really?auto.parts ithe would have been cheaper to do it right the first time. Really. The second tI'm around I ordered individual bosh T fittings from Oregon Fuel Injection listed under duramax of similar year and used some Mercedes line I keep in the box. The cheap kit had lesser T fittings, hose that leaked, and tiny o rings. I also looked for just the o rings but found nothing. In the end with shipping I spent some money, but done is done, leaky is useless.

Jpd686 · **Joined:** Tue May 30, 2017 12:14 pm **Posts:** 50

OK I'll check that again. When I bought the truck it had a broken t fitting and I went to a diesel shoo and got a new one. It stopped the obvious leak since the line had stopped being wet but it didn't come with the O ring and I reused mynold one so maybe it is that.... I'll check torque soec on the fuel line as well. If not guess I'll buy proper t fittings and correct fuel line.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 11:13 am

For what it's worth
1. run the engine until warm not hot
2. spray injector area, front to back, with engine degreaser
3. let sit for say 15 minutes and then rinse (no forceful spary) with a hose
4. blow off excess water maybe blot with paper towels and wait a bit - intent is to make sure injector area, including injector bases down by the crows foot, is dry.
5. grab some dry paper towels
6. have someone crank up at idle and look for leak with the paper towels. "Wet" will be instantly apparent.

Possible leak points
a. injector fitting at fuel rail - tighten
b. "T" fittings discussed - replace
c. base of injector - remove injector; replace copper crush washer and "O" ring with new; reinstall (PS don't lose dime size metal pad that sits in aluminum valve cover for crows foot to rest on)

Jpd686 · **Joined:** Tue May 30, 2017 12:14 pm **Posts:** 50

Thanks for the tip in will try that. Just looked, deff not from the t fitting as injector is dry as a bone on the too plastic price. It almost looks like its coming from where the plastic meets the injector? All the metal park appears to be wet but the black plastic on top is always spot free. I just tightened the fuel line going to injector, it woest loose but it did turn a little so maybe that did it... Not likely as it wasn't much, but who knows. If that didn't do it I will try what you posted above.

Also, I heard that you need a special tool to pull the injector, is that correct? Or if in good working order and not seized I should be able to pull them fairly easily? Is the crush washer an easily obtainable part and should my auto parts store have one or should I order it online before tackleing the project

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 12:54 pm

If it's leaking at the base you will need to pull the injector and get the crush washer and "O" ring from like idParts (http://www.idparts.com/advanced_search_ ... 96cfc6146f) the washer is CRD specific but IIRC the "O" ring is just a dust seal and might be available at a parts store.

Injector #4 is the hardest to pull. With luck it won't be stuck and will pull easily. If not liberal application of like pb blaster may free it up. If not some have had luck with gentle prying, remember the cover is aluminum (I'd ask around for a how to). In the end you may need the special tool.

Jpd686 · **Joined:** Tue May 30, 2017 12:14 pm **Posts:** 50

thanks ill get on that and prey to jesus she aint stuck haha. Will have to order the crush washers and o rings first!

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:28 pm

Jpd686 wrote:

Just looked, deff not from the t fitting as injector is dry as a bone on the too plastic price. It almost looks like its coming from where the plastic meets the injector? All the metal park appears to be wet but the black plastic on top is always spot free.

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Is the fitting for the return fuel fully seated, and the clip properly holding it in?
If you pull up on it with reasonably light force, it should not come out.

It sounds like you skipped this step.
If the plastic is dry and the metal is wet, it's likely leaking due to an improperly seated plastic return tee, or a failed o ring on the plastic fitting 'nose'.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:11 am

I seriously doubt you will need the injector puller. Once wiring harness and fuel return disconnected and holddown bolt and plate removed spray pb blaster like papaindingo recommended. You should be able to twist the injector back and forth then try to pull or slightly pry up. If you can twist it keep applying PB Blaster and twist more. I have the miller tool set and the injector remover is a really overbuilt tool but i didn't see any need to use it . If needed, try twisting with open end wrench on the flat portions the retainer slides on to get it started twisting. If after twisting and soaking it doesn't come freely try prying up with a large flat screwdriver or something like a door panel trim remover tool that i used on one. Others have put a socket where retainer is and pryed against that. Placing the socket would also be more difficult. The point is use anything that will pry more vertical as to not put lateral tension on tip to prevent damage to it.

Number 4 will be hardest to get to especially if you leave rail and other injectors etc in place. I would at least totally remove the return line from the whole area it seems fairly fragile to me. I removed fuel line from rail instead of injector since it is difficult to get to on number 4. Then follow above procedure.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Dez · **Posted:** Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:40 am

I personally needed the injector removal tool, but I got mine out, there was black sludge/soot (I Believe?) Around the injector, I barely got it out. cleaning up the injector hole was not fun!

rankom · **Posted:** Sat Jun 24, 2017 4:31 pm

there was discussion over this topic many times , i personally like that tool it is called injector cup cutter or reamer what ever you what to call it , this tool can shave just a bit and flatten, so copper washer can seal it 100 % no need to over torque and damaged threads , just about 19 -20 FT LB i know they say 24 ft lb , but you risking stripping threads , I'm bad with pictures but I'm sure PAPA OR WW or OTHER VETERANS have a picture of this special tool

Jpd686 · **Joined:** Tue May 30, 2017 12:14 pm **Posts:** 50

Thanks guys. Yes I made sure the plastic The was fitting proper. It clicks into place and will not pull out once the clip in on. The top of injector is not wet, just the actual metal body and in the valley where all the injectors are.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jun 24, 2017 9:42 pm

Clean and dry everything really well when the engine is warm, and your fuel tank is low, then put in

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-75730?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-lisle&gclid=CjwKEAjwm7jKBRDE2_H_t8DVxzISJACwS9Wb-QhTleROaLCgCL7386fkLYPgc8gD8F39JJGgFDzAHRoCt3Hw_wcB

or comparable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdxabruzRak

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 25, 2017 8:24 am

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Clean and dry everything really well when the engine is warm, and your fuel tank is low, then put in

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-75730?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-lisle&gclid=CjwKEAjwm7jKBRDE2_H_t8DVxzISJACwS9Wb-QhTleROaLCgCL7386fkLYPgc8gD8F39JJGgFDzAHRoCt3Hw_wcB

or comparable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdxabruzRak

That stuff from Summit mixes with coolant and is meant for checking for combustion gasses from a head gasket leak.

If the injectors are leaking fuel, check the the return lines and the supply lines.
The supply lines thread onto fittings that thread into the injectors.
Use two wrenches to loosen the line from the fitting.
Then tighten the fitting into the injector.
Then tighten the line onto the fitting.

Jpd686 · **Joined:** Tue May 30, 2017 12:14 pm **Posts:** 50

Thanks for all your help it ended up being the metal supply line. Not leaking anymore. Feel stupid for not checking but now it's fixed!

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jun 26, 2017 7:38 am

flash7210 wrote:

That stuff from Summit mixes with coolant and is meant for checking for combustion gasses from a head gasket leak.

That stuff from Summit (and most other places) mixes with coolant, mixes with diesel, mixes with gasoline, mixes with AC coolant, and mixes with engine oil.
If there is a leak, it will show where. Just make sure to use it as instructed.

Leaking injectors?

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