Thinking About Buying...

laynemoore · **Joined:** Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:26 pm **Posts:** 1

Hey everyone. For the past couple of weeks I have been researching the heck out of these CRDs. I honestly didn't even know they existed but they seem to be pretty bada** little motors.

Anyway I am looking at a 2006 Liberty CRD with 124K. The reason for my interest in it is because I am looking for a smaller SUV that is 4x4 and also gets decent mpgs. I have narrowed my search down to this jeep or a ford escape. I am needing this vehicle because I drive A LOT of miles for work, like 70k miles a year and I work in rural areas so 4x4 is needed and decent MPGs are preferred due to me paying for my own fuel. I've broken it down and per mile there is minimal difference as far as fuel cost per mile, cheap unleaded is around $2.75-$2.85 and diesel is $2.95-$3.15.

Also I am a decent mechanic, I prefer to do all my own work. I also am not new to diesels, I have owned multiple Ford Powerstrokes and Cummins.

Couple of questions that I hoping you all can help me with.

1. What is a realistic number for MPGs? I usually drive 65-70 and am very conscious about my MPGs considering I'm paying for all my fuel for work (do get paid per mile but not a lot) so my right foot is well behaved.

2. What can I expect as far as reliability? With that amount of miles things will break down sooner than later.

3. I know you all are Jeep CRD people but if you were in my shoes what option would you go?

Any help, advice, etc would be greatly appreciated.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2018 9:35 pm

Read the NOOB Guide on this forum before making a decision.
It will give you a lot of insight as to what you are in for to make this vehicle reliable and sustainable over the long haul.
> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207

Once you have read the NOOB guide a few times and if you are still interested in owning one of these unique vehicles, come back with your questions.
Many wonderful and helpful people on this forum who can help and guide you in ownership of one of these vehicles.
They are not for the average person; you must be willing to spend some money up front to get one to a condition that is reliable and you must be willing to do your own wrenching which sounds like your are..... :roll:

Fuel mileage varies depending on mods and location. Generally high 20's to low 30's over the road cruising, and low 20's around town. But driver habits can greatly affect fuel consumption.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2018 9:52 pm

You might also consider a 07-08 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD depending on your budget. It’s a nicer vehicle in general but the Mercedes derived 3.0 CRD is a better motor all around.

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Doesn't sound economical. You will probably need to do a timing belt kit for $400 when you buy it unless you know for sure that it was changed recently and then in 1 1/2 yrs do it again at 70K miles per year. That's $800 bills if you do it yourself without doing any of the other necessary upgrades that are needed to keep them running and you will be approaching 265K miles after 2 years.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 12:30 pm

joelukex4 wrote:

Doesn't sound economical. You will probably need to do a timing belt kit for $400 when you buy it unless you know for sure that it was changed recently and then in 1 1/2 yrs do it again at 70K miles per year. That's $800 bills if you do it yourself without doing any of the other necessary upgrades that are needed to keep them running and you will be approaching 265K miles after 2 years.

I agree here. These jeeps will not save you a whole lot of money via good MPG's. Between the cost of diesel and the cost of the upgrades/maintenance items you must perform, you'll end up being underwater vs basically any normal gas powered SUV. You really need to be buying one of these because you want the diesel and want a unique SUV.

And just because we are Jeep CRD people doesnt mean we are blind to the fact that they are generally poorly engineered vehicles from the factory with lots of corner cutting which, you as the owner, must remedy. I'd say most people here are pretty honest with the fact that these things can suck. Maybe you get lucky and find a used one with all the upgrades already and save yourself some time and money.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 2:30 pm

mass-hole wrote:

joelukex4 wrote:

Doesn't sound economical. You will probably need to do a timing belt kit for $400 when you buy it unless you know for sure that it was changed recently and then in 1 1/2 yrs do it again at 70K miles per year. That's $800 bills if you do it yourself without doing any of the other necessary upgrades that are needed to keep them running and you will be approaching 265K miles after 2 years.

I agree here. These jeeps will not save you a whole lot of money via good MPG's. Between the cost of diesel and the cost of the upgrades/maintenance items you must perform, you'll end up being underwater vs basically any normal gas powered SUV. You really need to be buying one of these because you want the diesel and want a unique SUV.

And just because we are Jeep CRD people doesnt mean we are blind to the fact that they are generally poorly engineered vehicles from the factory with lots of corner cutting which, you as the owner, must remedy. I'd say most people here are pretty honest with the fact that these things can suck. Maybe you get lucky and find a used one with all the upgrades already and save yourself some time and money.

Dang GOOD advice; these vehicles are not for the faint of heart or pocketbook! :roll:

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 7:22 pm

Read the noob guide for sure to get an idea about the quirks.

The problem with buying a used one, or at least most used ones, is you don't know the condition of a bunch of things, maybe you can find one from a LOST feller who did stuff so you feel good about it.

I just picked up 2 CRDs as projects, one of which I will keep long term. I've had my main CRD since April 2007, I've been through the ringer with it but finally have gotten it to a point where I don't expect any of the common gotchas to happen anytime soon.

I think I had the OEM theromstat fail when the vehicle was 3 years old with like 35k on it, its been fine since then however.

I had the boost hoses fail at about the same time, I still have the first ever produced, prototype, samco hoses on the Jeep now(literally the first set ever made).

I've had the EGR disabled from the get go with it.

I've run an EHM since 40k miles or so.

I installed a lift pump around 120k miles - haven't had air in fuel since.

That being said I just picked up an 05 CRD, its a nice clean jeep with an OME lift, I think long term is a good Jeep to keep. I bought it knowing it was a project, the rockers are bad, and its a bit of labor to fix and a fair bit of $$$$. The thing is, you would have paid full price for this Jeep 100 miles ago and not known there was a problem.

Since this is a Jeep I plan to keep and the history is unknown my "bulletproofing" will sort of apply if you want to make a solid vehicle to run up the miles on.

Engine:
Inspect and/or replace rockers.
ARP head studs.
New 5V metal glowplugs
Timing belt kit.
New Fan HD Hayden Fan Clutch (original may be fine, but it is original it seems)
Serp belt
Clean radiator, IC, and AC cond.
Disable EGR - either with MAF unplug or ECU Tune.
Clean MAP sensor.
Add EHM or Provent
Trans fluid/filter service
Fumoto drain valve
Oil change with delo 15-40 Diesel oil.
Mobile M1-301 filter.
Boost hose inspection or replacement to aftermarket.
Add Cummins Lift pump
Upgraded fuel filter head if already showing signs of leaks. If no leaks just the lift pump.
Group 65 battery in modified OEM tray.
Thermostat as needed.

So add all of that cost and labor time on top of buying a CRD. Sure you might be fine with the CRD and no work, but to me these are the things that are needed to long term make it reliable.

My opinion: the biggest problems we have had was caused by EGR use and using the wrong oil. For someone like myself who was able to disable the EGR and use a proper diesel oil for the past decade we have engines that are much less likely to have catastrophic issues.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 9:47 pm

Sam IMHO you forgot one thing, and that is either a block off plate for the EGR feed tube or a Weeks Elbow Kit.
No tune or simply unplugging the MAF can fully eliminate and guarantee that there is no soot leakby through a faulty EGR Valve.
The best option is to totally remove the entire EGR System including the EGR valve, EGR cooler, and the FCV if circumstances allow or at least install a block off plate. :2cents:

Everything else you listed was spot on!

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 10:03 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Sam IMHO you forgot one thing, and that is either a block off plate for the EGR feed tube or a Weeks Elbow Kit.
No tune or simply unplugging the MAF can fully eliminate and guarantee that there is no soot leakby through a faulty EGR Valve.
The best option is to totally remove the entire EGR System including the EGR valve, EGR cooler, and the FCV if circumstances allow or at least install a block off plate. :2cents:

Everything else you listed was spot on!

Thats a fair point, I guess I see the risk of the EGR leaking as pretty minor once its turned off, so to me its just dead weight, but one that doesnt really seem to be at risk of causing big issues in the future.

Plus, depending on what state you are in, you might have to pass a visual inspection where they could theoretically look for the EGR, with the equipment there but software tuned off who is to say that it isn't working?

I sold a Jeep last year that had the "bullet proofing" done, but since colorado has emissions tests it didn't seem like an option to remove all that equipment(though the EGR was tuned off), the new owner had had CRDs before, but their current one was having some issues. They paid a good price for my CRD, but they got a ton of important for long term reliability work done by a subject matter expert.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 10:17 pm

For those in that situation, I'm growing a bit fond of the solution of NPT tap in the fitting rear of the exhaust manifold, cementing in an allen drive plug of matching thread, and clamping the crosspipe back on.
Blocked at the source..
No evidence.

It even prevents intake gasses from bypassing into exhaust, if all fittings are tight.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 10:36 pm

If they have to keep parts intack for visual purposes; that is why I always say install a blank off plate in the exhaust feed tube at the EGR valve. No one will ever be the wiser and it completely eliminates the possibility of any soot getting back into the intake.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 16, 2018 1:19 pm

True, but the plug does the same thing with one off the shelf part. No fabrication needed.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Aug 16, 2018 2:19 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

True, but the plug does the same thing with one off the shelf part. No fabrication needed.

True, but getting to that port to tap is a pain with the engine in the vehicle. :roll:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Aug 16, 2018 8:05 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

GordnadoCRD wrote:

True, but the plug does the same thing with one off the shelf part. No fabrication needed.

True, but getting to that port to tap is a pain with the engine in the vehicle. :roll:

I've had trouble cutting those threads straight into that crappy cast metal, although I only did one that way. It's tough to get a good centered bite. My favorite fix is having a professional welder seal it up perfectly with titanium rod. That's what's in mine. Said he had to get the whole manifold hot first.

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