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 Post subject: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2018 11:09 am 
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Posts: 46
Some random questions all related to the 100,000 mile maintenance. Jeep is turning 188,000 miles and I need to make the decision to sell or maintain it. I would like to upgrade to a 2500 truck, but I do a lot of miles for work that make sense to keep it running. I did the first 100K maintenance about 7 years ago. My memory is somewhat faded from this experience:

1) Somewhere there was an article posted with pictures on how to perform the maintenance. Anybody have a link to that. I did a google search already.

2) I plan to do timing belt and associated pulleys and tensioners, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt with viscous fan clutch tensioner and alternator clutch, oil change, transmission oil change, transfer case oil change, fuel filter, diffs oil change, rear pinion seal, u joints, and power steering flush. Anything else to consider?

3) Is there an aftermarket thermostat that I can buy (i.e. not send out something to a machine shop) that allows for replacement of just the thermostat?

4) How much volume in the power steering system? How much volume in the transfer case? I was planning on getting a 5 liter jug for the two.

5) How much volume in both diffs? I don't tow that often. Planning on 75-w90. Do I need LS additive for an 05 crd liberty? I recall that I purchase a gallon and a liter before.

On the aside, when are people overhauling their suspensions?


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2018 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Shelton, WA
bronco9588 wrote:
Some random questions all related to the 100,000 mile maintenance. Jeep is turning 188,000 miles and I need to make the decision to sell or maintain it. I would like to upgrade to a 2500 truck, but I do a lot of miles for work that make sense to keep it running. I did the first 100K maintenance about 7 years ago. My memory is somewhat faded from this experience:

1) Somewhere there was an article posted with pictures on how to perform the maintenance. Anybody have a link to that. I did a google search already.

2) I plan to do timing belt and associated pulleys and tensioners, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt with viscous fan clutch tensioner and alternator clutch, oil change, transmission oil change, transfer case oil change, fuel filter, diffs oil change, rear pinion seal, u joints, and power steering flush. Anything else to consider?

3) Is there an aftermarket thermostat that I can buy (i.e. not send out something to a machine shop) that allows for replacement of just the thermostat?

4) How much volume in the power steering system? How much volume in the transfer case? I was planning on getting a 5 liter jug for the two.

5) How much volume in both diffs? I don't tow that often. Planning on 75-w90. Do I need LS additive for an 05 crd liberty? I recall that I purchase a gallon and a liter before.

On the aside, when are people overhauling their suspensions?


Here is the link to the factory service manual, all the fuild replacement is included http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

Hot Diesel Solutions, use a search engine, makes a very nice thermostat replacement, I and others highly recommend using this unit.

Make sure you change all the cylinder head valves, head gasket and use ARP studs, lots of sad people have dropped exhaust valves on semi high mileage motors.

I just lost a front wheel bearing so your rig may also need a pair as well, soon. 105K miles on my rig. Use quality MOOG parts for about 150 each.

I used this site and this series of videos to change my belt head..... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtRd0ADTAvGGaPDYU6MrGIQ

Unless your axle has a green tag saying to add LS fuild then don't, I think most KJs just have an ESP system for control.

Also tell us what mods you already have? EGR delete.....

All of the above wil get you started, good luck, check back in for help or progress reports.

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82,000 Sport 2016.01.06
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete, EH Mod to Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/2017 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs, HDS T-Stat
04/2018 99K, New Reman Trans with goodies from StreetSmart
09/2018 104K Carter Lift Pump


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2018 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:15 am
Posts: 5402
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
ESP was only on the 06's. As for bearings unfortunately they last until the go out which can be anywhere from days after they come out of the factory box to never. If the bearings are greasable then do so regularly but if they are sealed the best you can do is inspect regularly for leaking grease or lots of damp dust which indicates a bit of leaking grease and replace if leaking.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2018 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
Posts: 4405
Location: Green Cove Springs FL
For the suspension, inspect and replace what’s worn out.
You will want to pay the most attention to the front upper and lower ball joints.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2018 3:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:17 pm
Posts: 46
1) Yes, I seem to recall the hot diesel solutions one, just wasn't able to find it with my keyword search. Is there a place I can order them online and/or how much are they running? The guy is still in business I presume...

2) I never thought about pulling the cylinder heads. That is not for the faint of heart. Are the original exhaust valves any different than new OEM exhaust valves? That seems like an overly frequent periodicity to replace them. I agree that this or 300K seems to make sense during the 100K maintenance interval.

3) Your wheel bearing went bad, right?, like you were still on 4 wheels at the end of the day? My transfer case to forward differential CV joint went bad recently.

4) TBH, I kinda want to upgrade the differential to something that will give me better traction. I'm tired of a jeep getting stuck in the mud...I'm 99% sure its an open. I'm already bought into a new pinion seal and an oil change...

5) Upgrades include GDE engine tune, silicone boost hoses, fuel filter head that uses the heavier gauge wires, new glow plugs last year. Nothing else comes to mind.

6) I am loosing approx a liter of oil every 2-3K. I don't know if this means much. Probably the turbo is my guess.

7) I am fairly sure the motor mounts are original. Anything to check for to make sure they are still good?

8) What is the car currently worth? I feel like I am already bought into buying a replacement just to get to work for the week it will take me to get the jeep back on the road. It does have some value to me as I get really good cost per mile and my company pays me at the federal rate for mileage. I do want to get a truck and have no problem with having multiple vehicles. I just don't know if the juice is worth the squeeze. I also will redevelop my emotional attachment to the car if I do this maintenance and will want to keep it for a couple more years...


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:13 am
Posts: 384
bronco9588 wrote:
1) Yes, I seem to recall the hot diesel solutions one, just wasn't able to find it with my keyword search. Is there a place I can order them online and/or how much are they running? The guy is still in business I presume...

Contact TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK on this forum. He can set you up.

2) I never thought about pulling the cylinder heads. That is not for the faint of heart. Are the original exhaust valves any different than new OEM exhaust valves? That seems like an overly frequent periodicity to replace them. I agree that this or 300K seems to make sense during the 100K maintenance interval.

This has all become highly recommended to prevent catastrophic failure of the valves which seems to be a recurring theme in these vehicles.

3) Your wheel bearing went bad, right?, like you were still on 4 wheels at the end of the day? My transfer case to forward differential CV joint went bad recently.

4) TBH, I kinda want to upgrade the differential to something that will give me better traction. I'm tired of a jeep getting stuck in the mud...I'm 99% sure its an open. I'm already bought into a new pinion seal and an oil change...

There are a few options here that people with more knowledge can assist with. I'm in Arizona so my OEM diff takes me everywhere I can possibly want to go that isn't vertical!

5) Upgrades include GDE engine tune, silicone boost hoses, fuel filter head that uses the heavier gauge wires, new glow plugs last year. Nothing else comes to mind.

The only other things that come to mind for me are an in-tank lift pump for reliability, but this is not required if you have no problems right now. Also, a 2-micron fuel filter has given me good peace of mind for the CP3 fuel pump and injectors.

6) I am loosing approx a liter of oil every 2-3K. I don't know if this means much. Probably the turbo is my guess.

That is a lot of oil loss! Are you getting drips on the ground under the vehicle? Blue smoke on hard acceleration? You'll want to inspect the turbo shaft for play pretty soon. If the turbo seal goes it will empty the oil reservoir in seconds and leave you on the side of the road picking up the shrapnel soon after.

7) I am fairly sure the motor mounts are original. Anything to check for to make sure they are still good?

Hold the brake and put the vehicle in reverse, then drive then reverse, etc. If it clunks going from one to another then the motor mounts are bad. They are cheap and easy to replace so don't fret too much about doing them if you're unsure. At the age yours are, I'll bet they need to be done.

8) What is the car currently worth? I feel like I am already bought into buying a replacement just to get to work for the week it will take me to get the jeep back on the road. It does have some value to me as I get really good cost per mile and my company pays me at the federal rate for mileage. I do want to get a truck and have no problem with having multiple vehicles. I just don't know if the juice is worth the squeeze. I also will redevelop my emotional attachment to the car if I do this maintenance and will want to keep it for a couple more years...

CRD's are not worth much anymore from a blue-book perspective. MAYBE 10k for a low mileage clean Limited model with bells and whistles. Significantly less for Sport models and higher mileage. The sentimental value is another issue altogether. Being a Jeep forum that was primarily formed for the CRD community, we are generally going to urge you to keep your CRD. Repairing is likely to cost you less than buying another vehicle regardless of your desire to buy one. That will be your decision to make. These are becoming more rare and are still a very unique vehicle in terms of power and economy per dollar spent. So, as is the norm here, I urge you to repair yours if possible. If you decide it isn't for you, please post it for sale here so someone here can hopefully purchase it and do the rebuild.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:55 pm
Posts: 534
Location: Central Georgia
I keep on seeing the same few people shout about catastrophic failure of the vales as being some epidemic when from following this forum from when I literally joined when I bought my CRD new.. I don't buy it all all.

TC failures early on and some tranny, YUP
EGR issues, Yup
Rocker Arms- yeah, I will say they are an issue. It seems to be folks that use 0-40 as recommended by manual or manual recommended OCI.
Head Gasket leak- Yeah, seems to happen. No more than other vehicles with a ALM head on a cast block however.
LBJ issues- yeah they are like a once every two years PITA
Window regulators- simply suck

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
Light Khaki


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 7:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:12 am
Posts: 130
Location: Alaska
5W40.


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
Posts: 4405
Location: Green Cove Springs FL
Given the ever increasing numbers of folks who suffered catastrophic engine damage from a broken valve, replacing all the exhaust valves seems like a good preventative measure. That is, if you are willing to remove the head to do so. (and install ARP head studs)
Myself, my cylinder head was cracked at 160k miles.
I got a low mileage used head from England and I didn’t replace any of the valves in it. That was roughly 60,000 miles ago.

Quote:
LBJ issues- yeah they are like a once every two years PITA


You replace your lower ball joints once every two years??? :shock:

I installed the Moog heavy duty ball joints roughly 120,000 miles ago. I grease them up a couple times a year and they’re still going strong.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4244
Location: Central GA
cerich wrote:
I keep on seeing the same few people shout about catastrophic failure of the vales as being some epidemic when from following this forum from when I literally joined when I bought my CRD new.. I don't buy it all all.
TC failures early on and some tranny, YUP
EGR issues, Yup
Rocker Arms- yeah, I will say they are an issue. It seems to be folks that use 0-40 as recommended by manual or manual recommended OCI.
Head Gasket leak- Yeah, seems to happen. No more than other vehicles with a ALM head on a cast block however.
LBJ issues- yeah they are like a once every two years PITA
Window regulators- simply suck

The poor souls who have had the unfortunate misfortune of experiencing a broken exhaust valve and the subquence damage encountered to the head and in some cases catastrophic damage to engine would probably strongly disagree with your statement.
I agree it is not of epidemic proportions as of yet, but if or when it does happen, it can get real expensive real fast and in a few rare occasions reported on this forum has been catastrophic in nature to the point of a total engine loss.
We still don't know what the root cause of the failures are; sure wish we did as it would facilitate making decisions on replacement of the valves so much easier.

Suspect is a bad batch of valves during the manufacturing process? Thus the recommendation to replace all exhaust valves if the head is removed for any reason.
In the meantime, replacing the exhaust valves is like buying insurance hopefully against failure.

Gosh I hope and pray it never happens to mine.... :juggle:

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 10:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:55 pm
Posts: 534
Location: Central Georgia
flash7210 wrote:

You replace your lower ball joints once every two years??? :shock:

I installed the Moog heavy duty ball joints roughly 120,000 miles ago. I grease them up a couple times a year and they’re still going strong.


I exaggerated. In truth the recall ones lasted about 90,000 miles bringing me to 155,00. I put in mevotech ones two years ago and they are protesting and I am hardly driving the CRD until I get time to put the Moogs I bought in.

I had my transfer case go out early this year and the rebuilt one is leaking as well, so need to get that done as well. I have the replacement under warranty sitting here two weeks now and no time yet

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
Light Khaki


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 11:09 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:55 pm
Posts: 534
Location: Central Georgia
WWDiesel wrote:
The poor souls who have had the unfortunate misfortune of experiencing a broken exhaust valve and the subquence damage encountered to the head and in some cases catastrophic damage to engine would probably strongly disagree with your statement.
I agree it is not of epidemic proportions as of yet, but if or when it does happen, it can get real expensive real fast and in a few rare occasions reported on this forum has been catastrophic in nature to the point of a total engine loss.
We still don't know what the root cause of the failures are; sure wish we did as it would facilitate making decisions on replacement of the valves so much easier.

Suspect is a bad batch of valves during the manufacturing process? Thus the recommendation to replace all exhaust valves if the head is removed for any reason.
In the meantime, replacing the exhaust valves is like buying insurance hopefully against failure.

Gosh I hope and pray it never happens to mine.... :juggle:


Oh, I agree if you are taking the head off that valves are a good idea given the age/miles but I am just not as certain it's a "must do" with the second timing belt job. There is a calculation at the cost to maintain versus call it a day. With some decent preventive stuff (5w40, 4k OCI, EGR delete physical or tune, not overfilling oil which is super common as the dipstick is mismarked, Timing belt change at 80% of schedule, change glow plus from crap ceramics) getting 160,000-200,00 miles is likely for a good % of them. The head is well established as a weak part of the chain and if it goes on the low side of mile, worth the bill IMHO. We are lucky where we live that rust isn't an issue so mechanical stuff to fix makes sense longer, in most areas...not so much.

Once north of 200,000 the engine is only part of the equation on does it make sense.

Doing 2-4K in preventive maint./mods(depends on labor)when you have a 200k tranny, transfer case, rear end etc the odds are high you have another non engine 2-3k in stuff to get the next 100,000 miles.

So, is it worth 4-7K to keep a 13 year old vehicle on the road another 3-6 years depending on how much you drive it? Totally depends on the owner. If someone is not so inclined to do the labor themselves.. they need to really love it.

My skills are maybe high side of medium and I am willing to try often (done head replacements other vehicles, replaced clutches on manuals in the day) but my available time is pretty low with a business that keeps me on road 3-4 months a year and young family. I'm also cheap so don't want to pay when I can do. If I was retired it would be different.

I need to decide on what level of maint I do when timing belt rolls due in two years or if any at all. I like the tractor but it may get parked for a few years until I have the time to play with it or I may just decide...

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4244
Location: Central GA
cerich wrote:
WWDiesel wrote:
The poor souls who have had the unfortunate misfortune of experiencing a broken exhaust valve and the subquence damage encountered to the head and in some cases catastrophic damage to engine would probably strongly disagree with your statement.
I agree it is not of epidemic proportions as of yet, but if or when it does happen, it can get real expensive real fast and in a few rare occasions reported on this forum has been catastrophic in nature to the point of a total engine loss.
We still don't know what the root cause of the failures are; sure wish we did as it would facilitate making decisions on replacement of the valves so much easier.

Suspect is a bad batch of valves during the manufacturing process? Thus the recommendation to replace all exhaust valves if the head is removed for any reason.
In the meantime, replacing the exhaust valves is like buying insurance hopefully against failure.

Gosh I hope and pray it never happens to mine.... :juggle:


Oh, I agree if you are taking the head off that valves are a good idea given the age/miles but I am just not as certain it's a "must do" with the second timing belt job. There is a calculation at the cost to maintain versus call it a day. With some decent preventive stuff (5w40, 4k OCI, EGR delete physical or tune, not overfilling oil which is super common as the dipstick is mismarked, Timing belt change at 80% of schedule, change glow plus from crap ceramics) getting 160,000-200,00 miles is likely for a good % of them. The head is well established as a weak part of the chain and if it goes on the low side of mile, worth the bill IMHO. We are lucky where we live that rust isn't an issue so mechanical stuff to fix makes sense longer, in most areas...not so much.

Once north of 200,000 the engine is only part of the equation on does it make sense.

Doing 2-4K in preventive maint./mods(depends on labor)when you have a 200k tranny, transfer case, rear end etc the odds are high you have another non engine 2-3k in stuff to get the next 100,000 miles.

So, is it worth 4-7K to keep a 13 year old vehicle on the road another 3-6 years depending on how much you drive it? Totally depends on the owner. If someone is not so inclined to do the labor themselves.. they need to really love it.

My skills are maybe high side of medium and I am willing to try often (done head replacements other vehicles, replaced clutches on manuals in the day) but my available time is pretty low with a business that keeps me on road 3-4 months a year and young family. I'm also cheap so don't want to pay when I can do. If I was retired it would be different.

I need to decide on what level of maint I do when timing belt rolls due in two years or if any at all. I like the tractor but it may get parked for a few years until I have the time to play with it or I may just decide...

Can't disagree with anything you said; it all boils down to a lot of personal decisions based on some of the items you stated.
If a person is having to pay someone to do all their maintenance on this engine, I can see how it would be a very hard choice $$.:juggle: :5SHOTS:
These vehicles are not for the faint of heart and really requires a person to be able to do their own wrenching to hold costs down. A aficionado type for sure. :ALONE:

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: 100,000 Mile Maintenance
PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 11:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:55 pm
Posts: 534
Location: Central Georgia
I went to ID parts last evening and threw in everything for doing Timing belt, water pump, rockers, valves, head gasket, arb head bolts etc is right at $2200.

Add a weeks kit at it's $2,500 in parts for the "200,000" (really will be doing at 180,000) service.

If I have someone else do.. labor would double that bill.

Yeah, i am trying to decide if another 3-5k will get put into the ole girl..

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
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