No boost and Low operating temperature

xsfpns · **Joined:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:55 pm **Posts:** 40

Hello everyone, I just purchased a used 06 Liberty CRD that was having low power. After getting it home i noticed flap on the turbo which connects to the Actuator rod was seized. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and was able to get it free, the actuator now works and can hear it wind up when reving the engine. I also did a full EGR delete. This unfortunately did not solve my issue, I still only have a maximum boost of 6 psi and coolant temperature between 58 and 60 degrees. The jeep was at the dealership prior to me purchasing it, they changed the fuel filter and put in new MAP sensor. If someone can help as to what could be causing these issues and if they could be related, it would be greatly appreciated. Here are my CEL codes:

P0403 - Powertrain Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Control Circuit (probably because i deleted the EGR)
P1189 - Powertrain Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit ("Troublecodes.net" for Jeep it states Throttle Inlet Pressure Sensor Low, maybe because i removed the butterfly flap for the EGR?)
P1252 - fuel pressure control solenoid valve 2 Malfunction (Dealer said this was replaced)
P1140 - HO2S transition time ratio bank 1 sensor 2 (Troublecodes.net" for jeep states Vacuum reservoir Solenoid Circuit Condition)
p1252 - Powertrain Vacuum reservoir Solenoid Circuit Condition
P0411 Secondary air injection system - incorrect flow detected

Could it be the vacuum solenoid? there's definite suction there when i unplug a hose.

Thanks in advance!

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

Following along to see responses....

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 7:22 pm

P1140 = Flow Control Valve which you removed when you did the egr delete.

P1189 = Inlet Pressure Sensor which is the small sensor on the side of the air filter lid.

P1252 = turbo vacuum control solenoid behind the air filter box.

P0411= I don’t know. Does not seem to apply to the CRD. Probably the other vacuum control solenoid.

xsfpns · **Joined:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:55 pm **Posts:** 40

Thanks for the response Flash. I tested the Vacuum Solenoid, Its resistance is 14.8 ohms, but apparently supposed to be between 28-30 ohms, so i ordered a new one. Now after doing some more reading, I am getting conflicting results to which is the Vacuum Solenoid. The one on the bottom with the small fuel filter attached (Turbocharger Vacuum Pressure Converter Solenoid Valve. Which had the 15 ohms and I Ordered new), or the one on the top which apparently is another solenoid (i don't think this has failed though, when i unplug the bottom hose, pressure releases).

Argh Sole"Annoyed" :lol:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 9:23 pm

P1252 Jeep Description
Possible causes
- Faulty Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid
- Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid harness is open or shorted
- Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid circuit poor electrical connection
The Engine Control Module (ECM) detected a short to ground on the Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid control circuit

You can temporarily bypass the No. 2 item, vacuum reservoir for a test as follows:

From an old post:
Turbo Vacuum solenoid test procedure

Failure of the vacuum reservoir solenoid (a.k.a. solenoid secondary runner valve per the parts fiche PN(PN 4606226AC) ) can produce several MIL/CEL codes and result is turbo boost problems. A temporary solution and diagnosis is to bypass that solenoid by rerouting vacuum lines as in the picture below:

By disconnecting the hose from where the red arrow is (location A) and re-connecting it where the yellow arrow is (Location B port on modulator). If that solves the problem then leave the hoses in the new/temporary configuration and order a replacement solenoid. In the interim the vehicle may be driven; the CEL will remain until you replace the on/off solenoid. The only benefit that part provides is overnight storage of vacuum in the plastic reservoir so the turbo has vacuum immediately during the start. Without it you have a 2-10 second wait before the engine vacuum pump evacs the lines enough for the turbo vanes to move. Once the replacement solenoid is installed put the hose(s) back the way they were originally.

GDE's writeup for this says "By-passing of the on/off solenoid is very straight forward. Trace the vacuum line output from the black plastic reservoir to the input of the on/off solenoid. Remove this vacuum line and plug it directly into the turbo EVM on the port labeled "VAC". The turbo EVM is the one with the blue rubber isolator and vacuum line running directly to turbo."

Also, you should probably trace back along the vacuum input line to the reservoir for a melted vacuum line as in this post at: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61240

xsfpns · **Joined:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:55 pm **Posts:** 40

Thanks, I will try the bypass if the new EVM doesnt solve the issue (I kinda broke the old one taking it apart). Would the no boost issue cause the Jeep not get up to operating temperature? i am only getting between 58 and 60 degrees as apposed to the regular 90ish. I know with some VW's having a no-boost can cause this. If this cannot be the case, I will start to look into that issue while i wait for my EVM, probably the Thermostat.

Billybob · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2019 2:43 am

Some very good advice above^^^^

I presume you have downloaded the Jeep KJ Service Manual for the 2006 KJ.....gives you the error codes and what to do about them although I think the 2005 Manual is easier to work with...not that I have ever worked on anything other than my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD :wink:

You can download the Manuals here: http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

Seeing as some of the codes point to electrical issues there is a known problem with the 2006 CRD whereby the Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket can damage the wire harness going behind causing chaffing to the Firewall! You need to remove this bracket and inspect the harness behind it for damage. :wink:

Maybe low operating temperature is the thermostat stuck open or removed by previous owner

xsfpns · **Joined:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:55 pm **Posts:** 40

Thanks for the input Billybob. Yes, the first thing i did was download that manual as well as a few others there and checked that harness. Iv'e spent so many hours looking at them, I probably know them all off by heart hahaha. I like to do my own research before bugging the fine people on here.

Billybob · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2019 3:57 am

You are not bugging me or any of the "Real" Experts here at all....we are all Jeepers and not being able to offer advice would leave a major hole in our lives!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2019 9:50 am

Advice is free, we love helping our fellow Jeepsters! :wink:

xsfpns · **Joined:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:55 pm **Posts:** 40

Thanks for the help folks. So i put in a new EVM, still getting low boost (high of 7 psi). I tried the solenoid bypass and still the same issue. I tried another OBD2 scanner and this one is showing an error of P1186. think it could be a fuel issue instead of air? dealer said he replaced the fuel filter, water in fuel filter, and MAP sensor. Could it be the fuel pressure sensor? if so, does anyone know how to bench test it? i don't really want to pay $500 just for a guess.
Thanks!

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2019 7:23 pm

Have you taken the turbo-to-airbox tube off and check the play and condition of the wheel? Best way to get visual is take pics with a cell phone. Its free to do and will eliminate the possibility of a worn out wheel.

xsfpns · **Joined:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:55 pm **Posts:** 40

Hi Diesel_guy. I actually had the turbo out (the actuator wasn't opening the wastegate, it was seized. I got it freed up with penetrating oil and now moves with mouth suction from the actuator). I inspected the rest of the turbo and it was fine (I had a retired diesel mechanic friend with me at the time and all looked good). He was sure that was my no-boost issue, I guess not lol. Sometimes when i accelerate from stop, the RPM gauge will go to 3000 RPM and not change gear until i let go of the pedal and press it again, then it'll change. Also, the ABS, Traction control, and ESP lights are on the dash intermittently, not sure if this has anything to do with the same issue. I miss the good old days early 90's and before, when everything was mechanical.

Billybob · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2019 2:42 am

Stupid question but have you checked the CAC hoses going from the turbo to intercooler and then to intake manifold for holes or tears?

Also no leaks or blockages at the intercooler?

My one OEM CAC hose developed a long tear underneath on the open road which left my with low power and some black smoke.

Replaced with OEM as silicon hoses are hard to get here in SA for the early CRDs.

Then on another long trip the one hose popped off....same results. Pulled off the highway at a gas station to inspect and fortunately the hose clamp did not fall off....now carry spare clamps with me! :wink:

xsfpns · **Joined:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:55 pm **Posts:** 40

Hi BillyBob, not a stupid question at all, most often it is the simplest of things that causes the biggest issues but to answer your question, yes i have checked those hoses. I pulled back the mesh and checked all parts of the hoses. when pushing on the pedal in park, those hoses do not get tight (I know on my other cars they do) and when i Squeeze the one from the turbo by hand, the other one on the other side of the intercooler collapses. What i did today was hook the vacuum line directly to the actuator and measured the boost. The actuator fully pulled up on the wastegate flipper thingy (don't know the correct name), my boost gauge (from obdII reader) went from 1.6 in/Hg Vacuum (when vacuum hose not plugged in) to 0.7 in/Hg (plugged in). I know on my VW's when i do this, i hear my turbo wind up, this jeep, nothing. So figuring something broke inside the turbo after freeing up the seized "wastegate flipper thingy", i took apart the turbo and the vanes (even though a little sticky, moved back and forth by suction of my mouth. I tested the fins on both sides with a vacuum cleaner and move freely and very fast. I have cleaned up the insides of the turbo and letting the vanes sit in lubrication oil over night, will put back together tomorrow and hope for the best. :banghead:

Like the tree said to the lumberjack, I'm stumped - Ned Flanders.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2019 8:51 pm

I've heard some using oven cleaner. I've built about 20 of these turbos so far and I have good luck with simple green and a brass bristle brush.

You didn't answer the previous posters question about the intercooler. The intercooler has plastic end tanks and is NOTORIOUS for cracking. Had a guy message me ready to spend $800 for one of my turbos because of low boost. Talked to him for a bit and found out it was a cracked intercooler end tank. It usually cracks on passenger side because this is always getting the hot air from the turbo, weakening the plastic. If you can't see any cracks, I would still pressure check it with (2) 2.5" rubber plugs and a Schrader valve.see if it'll hold 20psi.

xsfpns · **Joined:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:55 pm **Posts:** 40

Thanks diesel_guy. Sorry I forgot to mention yes I did check the intercooler for cracks as well as the hoses. If my turbo cleaning and reassembling doesnt do the trick, I will try the intercooler plug and valve test, thanks for another suggestion

. In case it helps any, I don't have any black or white smoke from tailpipe.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2019 10:57 pm

Every time I see a customers rig with a p1186, it's always the same thing you encountered... The results for me have been the same, check the connection to the little sensor on the side of the air box, not the top, make sure it is plugged in all the way and the clip is locked in, try to unplug it, it should be securely snapped in. I have seen a few that wernt snapped all the way in and they had connection problems, they are small pins for that sensor, this will make it not shift right and have low boost.

The sensor in question is a Mercedes map sensor, I forget the engines it comes off, but in this application it basically is a barometric pressure sensor so it compares the baro the the map to figure boost and load, this is how it figures out how to shift and use the turbo, actually a pretty important little guy.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 25, 2019 1:01 pm

This is my limited understanding,
There is also an additional ambient barometric pressure sensor inside the ECM.
The software compares the two pressures at startup (key on) . [BP sensor on side of airbox vs BP sensor inside ECM]
The ECM uses the barometric pressure and ambient air temperature values to trim boost pressures based on these values against programed values .
The MAP sensor on top of the intake manifold provides the ECM with actual boost pressure (and boost incoming air temperature) as a feedback loop so the ECM can compare actual values vs demand.
I find it a little bit strange that they thought it needed two BP sensors... :shock:

If any of this is incorrect, please enlighten.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 25, 2019 8:20 pm

The sensor in the airbox was originally put there to warn of a clogged air filter. No more, no less. This is straight from Kieth at GDE.

No boost and Low operating temperature

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