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 Post subject: Double Cardan Upgrade?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:49 am 
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I installed the adjustable rear upper control arm from Iron Rock. I can reduce (and actually don't have much of a choice) the rear drive shaft angle to nearly straight at the differential. This would support a double cardan or "CV" joint (not really a CV joint just often called that). They are supposed to support lifts much better and vibrate much less.

This wouldn't require a slip yoke eliminator. The driveshaft would be made to the actual length I need so I don’t think there is any trouble to be had from the slip yoke. I would rather not have a slip yoke but the jumps the cost up quite a bit.

I am replacing the driver’s side cv shaft with a high flex from JBA and intend to raise the front to 3.25 inches.

Anyone have any experience or input?


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 Post subject: Re: Double Cardan Upgrade?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 2:02 pm 
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Science and Energy wrote:
I installed the adjustable rear upper control arm from Iron Rock. I can reduce (and actually don't have much of a choice) the rear drive shaft angle to nearly straight at the differential. This would support a double cardan or "CV" joint (not really a CV joint just often called that). They are supposed to support lifts much better and vibrate much less.
This wouldn't require a slip yoke eliminator. The driveshaft would be made to the actual length I need so I don’t think there is any trouble to be had from the slip yoke. I would rather not have a slip yoke but the jumps the cost up quite a bit.
I am replacing the driver’s side cv shaft with a high flex from JBA and intend to raise the front to 3.25 inches.
Anyone have any experience or input?

These people build a conventional double cardan shaft for the Jeep Liberty and it does have a slip joint on the differential end.
See this web site for details and prices:> http://www.4xshaft.com/

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 Post subject: Re: Double Cardan Upgrade?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 3:13 pm 
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Location: Shelton, WA
WWDiesel wrote:
Science and Energy wrote:
I installed the adjustable rear upper control arm from Iron Rock. I can reduce (and actually don't have much of a choice) the rear drive shaft angle to nearly straight at the differential. This would support a double cardan or "CV" joint (not really a CV joint just often called that). They are supposed to support lifts much better and vibrate much less.
This wouldn't require a slip yoke eliminator. The driveshaft would be made to the actual length I need so I don’t think there is any trouble to be had from the slip yoke. I would rather not have a slip yoke but the jumps the cost up quite a bit.
I am replacing the driver’s side cv shaft with a high flex from JBA and intend to raise the front to 3.25 inches.
Anyone have any experience or input?

These people build a conventional double cardan shaft for the Jeep Liberty and it does have a slip joint on the differential end.
See this web site for details and prices:> http://www.4xshaft.com/

Image


That's cool, except for the fact they require you to replace the pinion flange with requires you to replace the crush sleave and nut which requires you to replace the pinion seal and remove the rear pinion bearing and remove the differential so you can get the preload correct on the new crush sleave. I would get that double cardan joint if it weren't for all the other effort to change the flanges. :5SHOTS:

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 Post subject: Re: Double Cardan Upgrade?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 10:43 am 
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I was thinking something more like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182003885081?ul_noapp=true


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 Post subject: Re: Double Cardan Upgrade?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 3:57 pm 
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Location: Shelton, WA
Science and Energy wrote:
I was thinking something more like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182003885081?ul_noapp=true


That driveshaft doesn't have flanges either that our Liberty's require?

Here is a direct answer to my question from 4xshaft.com. I think this is a kludge way to go and I would setup the pinion preload with a new crush sleeve and nut. Why 4xshaft.com doesn't make a direct replacement for our Liberty's beats me. Here's Tom's comments

Quote:
Yes, changing the pinion flange, to a yoke, would be required. However,,,, The purpose of the crush sleeve is to set the pre-load between the pinion head and tail bearings. With not enough pre-load, the pinion will thrust sideward under a load and destroy the ring & pinion gear. Too much pre-load and the bearings will fail prematurely if they don't just seize up. Setting the crush is simply compressing the crush sleeve, lengthwise, until it is the correct length required to properly space the pinion head & tail bearings.

Per factory instructions, in order to correctly install a crush sleeve, the differential needs to be completely disassembled. The crush sleeve is placed between the pinion head and tail bearing. Then the new yoke is installed, and the nut tightened. Correctly adjusting the "crush" or pre-load requires tightening the nut until it takes approximately 7 to 10 inch pounds of torque to rotate the pinion.

The above is a lot of work. This is the approach I give. It has worked well for me for about 30 years now:

Because the crush sleeve usually takes in excess of 200 FT/LBS. of torque on the nut to compress, and if you do not come close to reaching this torque on the nut, you will not over-crush the sleeve. So, I suggest when replacing the yoke, you clean the threads on the nut and the pinion with some good de-greaser. Then apply a liberal coating of a high temp, high strength, permanent thread locking compound such as Loc-Tite.

After doing this you simply tighten the nut to about 160 FT/LBS. of torque. This will not be enough to compress the crush sleeve, but it will be tight enough to properly load the bearings. With the combination of the torque on the nut and the thread locking compound, the nut should not back off.

Some people think that marking the nut in relation to the pinion and tightening the nut until the marks align is a good way to go. I suppose it would be, if you are reusing the original yoke. However, since you are using a new yoke, which may be slightly longer or shorter through the bore, I have my doubts on the accuracy of this method.

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Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82K 01/16
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete,Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/17 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs, HDS T-Stat
04/18 99K, New Reman Trans
09/18 104K, Lift Pump
01/19 106K, OME Lift, Eaton TruTrac LSD in new rebuilt diff


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 Post subject: Re: Double Cardan Upgrade?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 11:12 am 
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One side is a sleeve for the slip yoke, the other mates with the universal on the flange. Your reuse your cast iron flange and attach it to the universal shown in the picture. I also sent him pictures and he told me what to measure and verified it would fit.

I only have about 3.25 lift in the back. In the future I might want to go to 4. With this cut to my current optimum length, I could lift it to 4 in the future without issue. No one seems to be having problems with their slip yoke and I doubt I would ever build this till I needed to do a SYE. The double cardan should eliminate most vibration and extend the life of the joints and diff/transfer case by having smoother operation and less flex at each joint. This seems like a very good upgrade.


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