No pump on the fuel filter head?

CRDMax · **Joined:** Thu May 09, 2019 1:17 pm **Posts:** 15

So I'm following the noob guide. I went to bleed the fuel filter head, but I can't even see a primer pump on it. What gives? (UK model)

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Mon May 20, 2019 1:10 pm

I believe you have an electric lift pump in your tank that was deleted the following year by the bean counters at Chrysler.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon May 20, 2019 2:13 pm

No in tank pump on the diesel. That's the pre-2005 export fuel filter head or a more recent Racor install. See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=77859 re bleeding or viewtopic.php?f=103&t=38102

CRDMax · **Joined:** Thu May 09, 2019 1:17 pm **Posts:** 15

Thanks Papa. The thread tells me where the pump is, but which do I loosen to bleed from?

CRDMax · **Joined:** Thu May 09, 2019 1:17 pm **Posts:** 15

Ok, so I unscrewed the pump thing, pumped it maybe 20 times, it didn’t go firm. I undid the brass screw, it let a tiny bit of air out, screwed it tight again, pumped again, same thing. Could pump a hundred times and no fuel comes out.

layback40 · **Posted:** Mon May 20, 2019 6:55 pm

CRDMax wrote:

So I'm following the noob guide. I went to bleed the fuel filter head, but I can't even see a primer pump on it. What gives? (UK model)

This is a fuel filter that was fitted to the XJ diesel. Never sold in the USA. That little plunger may need to be pumped at least 200 times to do a prime. On my 2 XJ's I just sealed around the plunger head with silicone as its a potential air leak place & then disconnect the fuel return line to the tank. You can pressurize that line & even though there is a vent on the tank it will build enough pressure in the tank to force the fuel through. The engine side of the return line needs to be piped into a container so you can watch till all the air bubbles are gone. You will need the ignition on when you do this to bleed it properly. I have done this many times. Bleeding the fuel system is messy, expect to get a bit of fuel spilled.

CRDMax · **Joined:** Thu May 09, 2019 1:17 pm **Posts:** 15

I don’t know what I did but the Jeep won’t start at all now. And a funny noise coming from the EGR solenoid that only stops if you pull a tube off.

So, you’re saying to bleed it correctly I need to pump that little white thing 200+ times?? Then release the brass screw, then tighten it, then pump again, and keep repeating until fuel comes out. Am I doing it right?

CRDMax · **Joined:** Thu May 09, 2019 1:17 pm **Posts:** 15

layback40 wrote:

CRDMax wrote:

So I'm following the noob guide. I went to bleed the fuel filter head, but I can't even see a primer pump on it. What gives? (UK model)

This is a fuel filter that was fitted to the XJ diesel. Never sold in the USA. That little plunger may need to be pumped at least 200 times to do a prime. On my 2 XJ's I just sealed around the plunger head with silicone as its a potential air leak place & then disconnect the fuel return line to the tank. You can pressurize that line & even though there is a vent on the tank it will build enough pressure in the tank to force the fuel through. The engine side of the return line needs to be piped into a container so you can watch till all the air bubbles are gone. You will need the ignition on when you do this to bleed it properly. I have done this many times. Bleeding the fuel system is messy, expect to get a bit of fuel spilled.

When you say ignition on, you mean key turned until dash light are on, or car actually started?

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon May 20, 2019 9:04 pm

key on not started or running. If there is an in tank pump or aftermarket lift pump it should be wired to come on for a set amount of time such as 30 seconds or so each time key is cycled to on position.

layback40 · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2019 9:33 am

CRDMax wrote:

layback40 wrote:

CRDMax wrote:

So I'm following the noob guide. I went to bleed the fuel filter head, but I can't even see a primer pump on it. What gives? (UK model)

This is a fuel filter that was fitted to the XJ diesel. Never sold in the USA. That little plunger may need to be pumped at least 200 times to do a prime. On my 2 XJ's I just sealed around the plunger head with silicone as its a potential air leak place & then disconnect the fuel return line to the tank. You can pressurize that line & even though there is a vent on the tank it will build enough pressure in the tank to force the fuel through. The engine side of the return line needs to be piped into a container so you can watch till all the air bubbles are gone. You will need the ignition on when you do this to bleed it properly. I have done this many times. Bleeding the fuel system is messy, expect to get a bit of fuel spilled.

When you say ignition on, you mean key turned until dash light are on, or car actually started?

Key in on position, dash lights on, so that fuel valve is on in the injector pump.

CRDMax · **Joined:** Thu May 09, 2019 1:17 pm **Posts:** 15

Yep, tried again this morning with ignition on. 200 pumps and nothing. Been towed to garage now so will see.

Billybob · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2019 10:50 am

That is an early form of the Racor head that was fitted on the Export KJs like my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD.
No pump fitted on any of the KJs unless a previous owner fitted one.

The FSM states to pump a few times until it gets hard. On my KJ this normally does work but sometimes I have to briefly crack open the 13 mm brass bolt on the side.

These early Racor heads are pretty reliable but the low-pressure fittings at the Head and just before there are known to start leaking!

Change your fuel filter while you are about it...clogged filter can cuase engine to cut out with no codes only to start up again and run for a while! :shock:

CRDMax · **Joined:** Thu May 09, 2019 1:17 pm **Posts:** 15

Well I’ll have to wait and see what they say. Right now it’s being booked in for oil leak :cry:

that needs gearbox removed, starting problems, needs a full service, and probably a timing belt change. Not bad for only owning the vehicle two weeks lol.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2019 7:47 pm

i would have them check the u joints and control arms while its there if they get it running and it still has the vibration. Remember the rear control arms have had a recall at least in US

layback40 · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2019 11:44 pm

CRDMax wrote:

Yep, tried again this morning with ignition on. 200 pumps and nothing. Been towed to garage now so will see.

When you were pumping did it feel like it was pumping fuel or did it feel like air?
Chances are the garage will pressure bleed the system like I suggested. Those plunger pumps are prone to air leakage.
All joints in the drive train are CV type joints. All they can do is check the boots for cracks.

CRDMax · **Joined:** Thu May 09, 2019 1:17 pm **Posts:** 15

layback40 wrote:

CRDMax wrote:

Yep, tried again this morning with ignition on. 200 pumps and nothing. Been towed to garage now so will see.

When you were pumping did it feel like it was pumping fuel or did it feel like air?
Chances are the garage will pressure bleed the system like I suggested. Those plunger pumps are prone to air leakage.
All joints in the drive train are CV type joints. All they can do is check the boots for cracks.

Felt like air, with a tiny bit of fuel.

layback40 · **Posted:** Sat May 25, 2019 7:54 am

CRDMax wrote:

layback40 wrote:

CRDMax wrote:

Yep, tried again this morning with ignition on. 200 pumps and nothing. Been towed to garage now so will see.

When you were pumping did it feel like it was pumping fuel or did it feel like air?
Chances are the garage will pressure bleed the system like I suggested. Those plunger pumps are prone to air leakage.
All joints in the drive train are CV type joints. All they can do is check the boots for cracks.

Felt like air, with a tiny bit of fuel.

What usually happens is you initially feel air only, then you start to feel a little fuel & then another 30 or so pumps & you feel straight fuel. That is with a bleed open.

No pump on the fuel filter head?

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