Well i just failed CO emissions for high Opacity for the first time in 8 yrs (tested every 2 years). 35% is the Opacity limit. Replaced turbo in 2017 after it imploded. Readings jumped significantly after turbo replacement and continue to get worse. Pulled the MAP sensor after test and it is spotless w/ zero soot , no codes, Air filter new w/ 2800 miles on it (starting to get dirty), new fuel filter and in-tank fuel pump @ 171200. Very little soot in intake as ORM was run from ~3000 miles to GDE FT ECO tune @111344 miles and was nice and clean when Weeks Stage 1 installed @126006 miles and was still nice and clean when last checked @160006 miles. Have also replaced the turbo modulator valve and filer assys within the last year. I'm considering tearing down the top end and replacing the rockers & lifters along with ARP head bolts and fresh timing job as it's been 7 yrs since the timing belt was last replaced.

Any thoughts or suggestions on what may be going on is appreciated.


My readings for all years are:

2020 - 173500 miles - Full Torque ECO Tune - Weeks Stage 1 - Clean MAP - Mishimoto upper CAC hose, Samco lower CAC hose - Weeks Silicone Intake Hose - GDE ECO Trans Tune
60 MPH 42% Opacity
50 MPH 10% Opacity
40 MPH 56% Opacity
Zero Shift 00% Opacity

172084 miles - Replaced DieselSite Wicked Turbo for loose compressor housing - Weeks Silicone Intake Hose - New Air Filter

2018 - 154130 miles - Full Torque ECO Tune - Factory upper CAC hose, Samco lower CAC hose
60 MPH 22% Opacity
50 MPH 27% Opacity
40 MPH 25% Opacity
Zero Shift 00% Opacity

2017 - Turbo blew 151467 miles. - Installed new DieselSite Wicked Turbo

2016 - 134893 miles - Full Torque ECO Tune - Samco CAC hoses
60 MPH 03% Opacity
50 MPH 02% Opacity
40 MPH 05% Opacity
Zero Shift 01% Opacity

2014 - 118521 miles - Full Torque ECO Tune - Samco CAC hoses
60 MPH 04% Opacity
50 MPH 06% Opacity
40 MPH 06% Opacity
Zero Shift 00% Opacity

Timing Belt Job 105860

2012 - 90609 miles Stock tune - Samco CAC hoses
60 MPH 04% Opacity
50 MPH 04% Opacity
40 MPH 06% Opacity
Zero Shift 00% Opacity


Thx - Chris

Just brain storming.
Need to give it a oil change & a 100 mile hard drive (Italian tune). This should clean out everything. It gets the cat converter hot so it cleans out. Some fuel brands can cause issues. Clean air filter is important.

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006

Oil change ~ 2700 miles ago.

You could try a new MAP sensor. Cheap thing to try before tearing down the top end.

_________________
2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax

Boost leaks could be a problem.
Do you have a way of reading boost pressure?

Do you notice smoke out the exhaust when accelerating?
That would offer a clue.
Rockers could be worn out but that would include some low power and drivability problems.

If you can, fill the tank with biodiesel.
And absolutely drive it hard to blow all the carbon out.
Make sure it’s fully warmed up before before testing and be sure to leave the AC off.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

No boost leaks that I can find or DTC codes and yes I have TorquePro to monitor my boost levels.

I do see some smoke while accelerating but nothing excessive like when I had to he boost leak at the turbo which was solved when I put the new replacement turbo on back in March. If my rockers are worn they can’t be too bad off as I have no drivability issues or with how it runs. The only thing that I’ve noticed as of late is the according to TorquePro my coolant temps go up into the upper 190’s when driving home which from work is about a 2500’ elevation gain. Still need to figure out what’s causing this behavior as I never noticed this before. Coolant level is good and doesn’t look dirty and the transmission ATF level looks good.

It’s getting harder to find biodiesel in my area but I as already planning to run some prior to and during my retest. Jeeps plenty warmed up as I live ~1/2 hr from the testing facility and AC is almost always off as I prefer fresh air.

You can safely run the temp up to 215F.
But I prefer to keep mine below 200.
190-200F is perfectly normal

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

What does Torque say your boost is under acceleration? Should peak around 20psi, but I had to configure torque to subtract ambient pressure at this altitude.

_________________
2005 CRD, owned since new.
GDE Hot tune, 2.5" lift w/JBAs, 235/85 Duratracs, Weeks2 kit, Provent, Facet lift pump, Cat fuel filter

Never noticed it spiking like this before. Driving the 1/2 hr into work which includes a fair bit of 60 mph never gets out of the 170’s which is a red fog for me even though still a safe operating temperature. To me it appears to go up into the 190’s when under load going up hills.





TorquePro shows boost levels in the range of 22-25 psi. So maybe I need to make a calibration adjustment as well. Will need to take a closer look at TorquePro’s settings. How did you know that yours was reading incorrectly? Do you also have a mechanical boost gauge?

Edit: Regarding boost readings I noticed on my way home tonight that they are highly dependent on vehicle speed and engine load.

I am having the very same problem in Colorado on my 2006.
I never failed a test in 8 years, except when one particular tech was working at Cartech.
I have Samco CAC hoses, and a GDE Full Torqe Ecotune. The Jeep seems to be running fine.

I've had it tested 3 times:
1st test at Cartech on Missippi in Denver:
60mph 42% opacity
50mph/25%
40mph/30%
zero shift/0%

I have had problems with one particular tech guy at Cartech failing it in the past, when it passed elsewhere later so
I took it to Lake Auto on Marshall Pl, Westminster.
Without changing anything it tested:
60mph/30%
50mph/42%
40mph/51%
zero shift/ 1%

I then changed the oil, put in a new airfilter (the old one was clean), changed the crank and cam sensors, inspected the map sensor (clean), inspected the airbox to turbo elbow,
added Stanadyne Diesel Kleen to the tank, changed a transfer case switch that had a DTC but no check engine light, ran it hard for 30-40 miles.
Got it retested at Lake Auto:
60mph/41%
50mph/22%
40mph/48%
zero shift 0%

There are no still DTC codes.
I am thinking that maybe it is because I have not used it much this year, and that it still has "winter' diesel from filling it in February.
I'm going to try new diesel, changing the fuel filter and maybe adding an in tank lift pump.
I Inspected the airbox to turbo elbow, cleaned the MAF sensor and noticed that after a hard run, the turbo vacuum modulator was buzzing, so ordered a new one of those.
I am also going to reflash the ecm back to the original factory tune.
I'll try to post back here once I get it reinspected for the 4th time.
I'm curious what diesel emissions places people in CO have had good or bad luck with.
Maybe the guy running the test makes a big difference (ie flooring it to kick it down to passing gear or not)?

@blkkjltd how many miles on your ‘06?

Very interesting as Lake Arbor Automotive is also where mine was just tested and failed at. So now you’ve got me wondering if who conducts the test or how the test itself is run can cause a diesel emissions test pass or fail.

FYI the two previous emissions tests done (2018 and 2016) were also run at Lake Arbor Automotive with both passing, but with 2018 being significantly higher then any of the previous 3 tests (2016, 2014 & 2012). Maybe I need to take it back to 5th Gear Automotive In Broomfield which is where I had it tested in 2014.

Also now wondering if they are somehow testing to the incorrect engine specs as my emissions test report lists engine make as a 4 cyl GMC even though the rest of the vehicle details look correct? Do test parameters vary/differ based on engine make?

I've never torn down one of these with more than 150k miles that had good rockers, and I'm talking dozens. Not sure if that affects emissions, but it definitely reduces flow.
Don't run EHM or you WILL have a rear main seal to replace soon. And then you'll have a buggered engine after they fail to replace it correctly. Not an easy job...

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Understood regarding the rockers as I suspect that I am dealing with some wear. Just ordered everything from Seth @ SaquatchParts to do a rebuild of the top end which includes rockers, lifters, ARP head bolts and full timing belt Kit.

Some very good advice: If your going to all that work I would strongly recommend replacing all the exhaust valves. They are notorious for breaking on higher mileage engines. A few on LOST have reported an exhaust valve failure just a few thousand miles right after doing exactly what you are planning.
If a valve breaks, catastrophic damage will occur, just how bad no one knows, it could cost you a head, a piston, a piston liner, and even in a few rare instances a complete block.
So, as you can see, it could get real expensive $$$$ real quick, just not worth the risk since you are already going in that deep.
You can search LOST if you like to read some of the horror stories regarding valve failures, its ugly!

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Yes I’ve been debating ordering the exhaust valves while it’s torn down that far. Figured I would wait to see what shape the rockers are in first and then decide if I’m going to do the ‘Full Monty’ as I’ll need to figure out which head gasket to order so I’ll just order the valves then.

That's a very good move! Always better safe than sorry later down the road.

As to the head gasket, some push just using the two hole gasket in all replacement applications.
I am certainly NOT an advocate of that theory, if you read and study the Factory Service Manual, it lays out in great detail how the original head gasket thickness was determined based on several very close tolerance measurements between the top of the piston protrusion in relation to the head and the clamping force on the piston liners exerted by the head. Can you get away with a "one size fits all" approach, probably as it has been done many times by some, is it the best practice, certainly not in my opinion. I'm an older experienced mechanic who has worked on all kinds of vehicles for the past 50+ years or so including working in an automotive machine for several years.

As for me, I vehemently believe the engineers who designed this engine and wrote the Factory Service Manual were a lot more knowledgeable on its requirements than a few wrench turners who claim they know more than the engineers who originally designed and built this very unique engine.
If I were changing the head gasket and there is NO machining or shaving of the head involved, I would go back with the same thickness head gasket that comes off the engine, i.e. no hole, one, two, or three hole. There is a reason for having different size head gaskets as outlined in the manual.....

If you go to this site:> http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/
you can pull up the factory service manual online for either an 05 or 06 and read all about how the correct head gasket thickness is determined based on precise measurements. See Section 9, 2.8L COMMON RAIL DIESEL ENGINE, then read: STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING PISTON PROTRUSION.

But as always, it's your engine, make your own choices based on facts....

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

You can see the tab on the head gasket without disassembling the motor. The tab sticks out from the head/block.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

_________________
2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

If you are above 150k miles on the engine, replace the valves. They have been getting stressed by the cylinder temperatures and the metal in the stems weakens over time. There will NOT be any warning before a failure, and a failure WILL destroy at least the head and the piston involved, and depending on the conditions, may junk the entire block.

Now, about the head gasket selection.

The sealing surface of the liners is parallel to the deck of the block - the gasket is compressed below the head and presses on a wide flange at the top of the liner. The thickness of the gasket doesn't matter AS LONG AS the center of the liner isn't taller than the gasket is thick. See, there's this raised lip at the center of the liner. And there have been more than a few engines that I have worked on, where the bottom of the head actually had an indentation pressed into it from that raised lip. That means that the gasket WAS NOT being compressed any further, because the head impacted the liner directly. This seems like a great way to warp a head.

The service manual has a series of instructions about measuring the liner protrusion too - and the liner is actually supposed to be (according to the book) installed with shims to between 2 and 6 thousands ABOVE the deck of the block. To date, I have found ZERO factory engines with the liners above the deck of the block. Now did the shims just vanish? Or perhaps... Is the book wrong because that isn't how they actually assembled the engines? I don't know if this section of the service manual is correct or not, but there have been NUMEROUS other errors found in there and not backed up by how the vehicles are built! The section about the turbo is another good one - it illustrates how this vehicle has a wastegate turbo - which the 05 and 06 have NEVER had in any application. So maybe these "piston protrusion" measurements are superfluous, I don't know. The pistons don't actually protrude above the deck of the block AT ALL anyway, or they would be impacting the head! You'd know REAL FAST if that was happening.

The ONLY sealing force to keep the combustion in the cylinders, is the strength of the head gasket compression. The combustion force wants to shove its way through between the layers of the gasket. The compression is the only thing stopping that. If the liner lip contacts the head, then the gasket won't be compressed properly. I have personally assembled over 40 of these engines with new head gaskets and valves and the other upgrades - and NOT ONE has subsequently reported any issues with head gasket leaks when using the 2-hole gasket. In fact, several owners have said that they have been getting the best mileage ever after the work.


Now about the subject of this thread - The boost numbers SOUND correct... But maybe a bit low. Peak should be 25psi during a hard pull, and normal under acceleration of about 18-22. But if the rockers are worn (a really good chance) then the engine is NOT getting that air either in or out of the cylinders properly, and that will lead to it running rich (b/c it knows how much air it SHOULD have and fuels accordingly)... And that will definitely lead to more smoke / opacity. These SHOULD NOT smoke under normal operation except for an occasional small puff under acceleration as the turbo catches up.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Coming a bit late to this thread, but I would second the idea of running a tank of biodiesel for the test. Bio makes almost no soot unless the injection quantity is way off, so it will likely get to pass the emissions test. But it won't change the need to address other things which might be causing this...

Also, too bad to hear about Lake Arbor. I too have been using them for a few years now and noticed the numbers creeping up (but still passing for me). Have to start looking for another test station.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD

@Steve777 there aren’t many places to buy biodiesel around here anymore. The only place I know of is. Boulder Gas in North Boulder - what other choices are there?