Terrible mileage & no power

wfd1350 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 03, 2021 7:00 pm

My 2005 CRD is getting under 20mpg and that’s an imperial gallon. It’s lacks power also. I recently installed a boost gauge and the boost is erratic while on cruise control on the highway. It’s bounces around from 9 to 15 psi on flat ground with no change in wind, etc. Also noticing it starts running hotter than usual under low stress conditions. There are no codes on the computer. Any input would be very much appreciated.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

How is the boost gauge installed? What/how are you measuring?

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 04, 2021 2:44 pm

Might want to try cleaning map sensor . ? problem with vacuum or a sensor? You might benefit from this thread and do the actuator arms and bypass tests etc
.viewtopic.php?f=5&t=90033

layback40 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 04, 2021 7:10 pm

If your boost gauge is the mechanical type, you may need to dampen it. By having oil in the tube, the pressure pulses that occur when valves open dont cause the nedle to flick. Most, but not all, gauges have built in dampening.

OzzyDaveO · **Joined:** Sun Jun 27, 2021 9:32 am **Posts:** 3

I'd be checking the following

a. MAP sensor - be very very careful pulling it - does it jump around like the boost gauge
b. hoses are not split or leaking
c. fuel filter - clean and free of air
d. EGR is not playing up - pull the MAF sensor - you will get fault code but otherwise disables the EGT
e. brakes are not dragging
f. ensure its going into the correct gear - specially 5th gear
g. electrical problem - good earths

wfd1350 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 05, 2021 8:30 am

The boost gauge is plumbed to a factory port on the intake manifold. I will post a photo later. I checked my map sensor last week and it was very clean. I have the egr delete mod installed.

I double checked and my boost gauge line is off the charge air cooler tube on the manifold side of the block.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Aug 05, 2021 12:05 pm

OzzyDaveO wrote:

I'd be checking the following

a. MAP sensor - be very very careful pulling it - does it jump around like the boost gauge
b. hoses are not split or leaking
c. fuel filter - clean and free of air
d. EGR is not playing up - pull the MAF sensor - you will get fault code but otherwise disables the EGT (Disconnecting the MAF will not help if the EGR valve is leaking by or stuck party open allowing boost to be lost and escape backwards through it into the exhaust manifold. Best course of action if the EGR is still in service is to install a blank off plate {picture below} in the exhaust feed tube to the EGR valve. That insures that NO boost is lost through the EGR system. Of course the best option is to totally remove the whole crappy EGR system for good.)
e. brakes are not dragging
f. ensure its going into the correct gear - specially 5th gear
g. electrical problem - good earths

wfd1350 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 21, 2021 10:00 pm

Update. Wanted to thank all who responded to my post, but a special thanks to TKB4. I finally got around to testing my vacuum solenoid, which is working, so that means my turbocharger vacuum modulator is the culprit, replacement has been ordered.

wfd1350 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 26, 2021 8:33 am

I bypassed the turbocharger vacuum modulator and the Jeep is operating much better. The boost is much steadier, it has more power and is getting much better mileage. I will update effects of the new turbo modulator when I get it installed.

wfd1350 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 27, 2021 7:53 am

A faulty turbocharger vacuum modulator was the problem. The new one is installed and the Jeep is running well. More power, steady boost pressure, and better mileage.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 03, 2021 6:40 pm

wfd1350 wrote:

Update. Wanted to thank all who responded to my post, but a special thanks to TKB4. I finally got around to testing my vacuum solenoid, which is working, so that means my turbocharger vacuum modulator is the culprit, replacement has been ordered.

You are certainly welcome . I haven't been on in a while as I have been busy with other ventures and my crds are with 3 different kids not local now and they have been "bulletproofed? I do have one here I drive but it also hasn't had any fun problems lately till today. Wish you good luck with your CRD !!!!

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

wfd1350:

You may want to check your engine operating temperature. DO NOT rely on the O.E. temperature guage... use an OBDII reader or a Torque Pro App on your mobile device and get the actual engine temperature reading in degrees from the engine's computer.

These engines run cold, even with a new O.E. thermostat. The rest of the world gets thermostats that open up at 195 degrees Fahrenheit; we here in North America get a that opens up at only 176 degrees Fahrenheit. This is thanks to our Environmental Protection Agency Overlords setting ridiculous NOx emission standards. Lowering engine operating temperatures is the cheapest way for manufacturers to meet that standard.

The only people who get screwed are the consumers when the engines lose efficiency and power production by running too cool. Apparently that is O.K. by both the E.P.A. and Daimler Chrysler, and is reinforced by the fact that G.M. did the same thing with the Baby Duramax.

Terrible mileage & no power

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