Getting desperate, no ignition.

TimmyTurner · **Joined:** Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:34 pm **Posts:** 21

I have a 2.8 CRD and did not have this issue, but for sure had this issue with my 6.2 detroit diesel.

I bought the 1984 CUCV (Military blazer) from someone, and I could only start it with ether, but it would NOT start on it's own. When I did start it with starter fluid (don't do that BTW) black smoke would pour out for about a minute and then be totally clear.

The previous owner had cranked it so much and on dead batteries (24Volt system) that it ground the flex plate teeth down and the starter would just spin when it hit the bare spots. So I changed the flex plate (and rear main seal, and mechanical fuel pump).

Still wouldn't crank without starting fluid. I checked everything from the fuel, to filters, used clear lines to make sure no bubbles, checked the injection pump, everything....then...

Turns out the glow plus were totally dead. I tested each one and not a single good one.

I changed them and the glow plug relay, and it fired up (and still fires up) with a flick of the key like it just came off the C130 in 1984.

I'm guessing that's the issue, or they aren't getting power.

Your voltage is also going to drop when turning the key because your glow plugs have to heat. There is usually a temp sensor on diesels that will indicate to the glow plug "job" on the computer to shut off the glow plugs once a certain temp is reached. It that never reaches temp because the plugs are faulty, it'll just keep draining, unless these plugs don't allow that to happen (there are different glow plugs that are self-regulating for protection for this)

viewtopic.php?f=98&t=70159

roamer · **Joined:** Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:49 pm **Posts:** 28

TimmyTurner wrote:

I have a 2.8 CRD and did not have this issue, but for sure had this issue with my 6.2 detroit diesel.

I bought the 1984 CUCV (Military blazer) from someone, and I could only start it with ether, but it would NOT start on it's own. When I did start it with starter fluid (don't do that BTW) black smoke would pour out for about a minute and then be totally clear.

The previous owner had cranked it so much and on dead batteries (24Volt system) that it ground the flex plate teeth down and the starter would just spin when it hit the bare spots. So I changed the flex plate (and rear main seal, and mechanical fuel pump).

Still wouldn't crank without starting fluid. I checked everything from the fuel, to filters, used clear lines to make sure no bubbles, checked the injection pump, everything....then...

Turns out the glow plus were totally dead. I tested each one and not a single good one.

I changed them and the glow plug relay, and it fired up (and still fires up) with a flick of the key like it just came off the C130 in 1984.

I'm guessing that's the issue, or they aren't getting power.

Your voltage is also going to drop when turning the key because your glow plugs have to heat. There is usually a temp sensor on diesels that will indicate to the glow plug "job" on the computer to shut off the glow plugs once a certain temp is reached. It that never reaches temp because the plugs are faulty, it'll just keep draining, unless these plugs don't allow that to happen (there are different glow plugs that are self-regulating for protection for this)

viewtopic.php?f=98&t=70159

Thanks, I'll look into that.

roamer · **Joined:** Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:49 pm **Posts:** 28

Getting bonkers here.
Suspected the new solenoid might be faulty because the packaging was opened when received.
Put another new one in to no effect.
That leaves the ECM right?
Is there any way to test the thing or is there anything else I can do?

The dropping Voltage nags me. I hooked up a new battery but the voltage still drops to ~8V.
What to do next?

Billybob · **Posted:** Thu Mar 16, 2023 10:17 am

I know on the LHD 2.8 CRDs there is a problem whereby the Wiring Harness goes through a metal tunnel to lift the harness up out of the way of some component, This can cause the wires in this harness to chafe onto the Firewall or to chafe onto other wires!

You need to remove the covers and check the wiring carefully for chaffing...check where the harness enters the Firewall as well!

The ECM is difficult to trace the wiring while using the Wiring Diagrams as the pin sockets are very small....I used to tape a Sewing Needle to my Multimeter so that I could trace the wiring within the ECM Connector by piecing the Insulation with the needle....pulled off many problems there after my GF pranged the Front End of my Jeep! :wink:

roamer · **Joined:** Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:49 pm **Posts:** 28

Billybob wrote:

I know on the LHD 2.8 CRDs there is a problem whereby the Wiring Harness goes through a metal tunnel to lift the harness up out of the way of some component, This can cause the wires in this harness to chafe onto the Firewall or to chafe onto other wires!

You need to remove the covers and check the wiring carefully for chaffing...check where the harness enters the Firewall as well!

The ECM is difficult to trace the wiring while using the Wiring Diagrams as the pin sockets are very small....I used to tape a Sewing Needle to my Multimeter so that I could trace the wiring within the ECM Connector by piecing the Insulation with the needle....pulled off many problems there after my GF pranged the Front End of my Jeep! :wink:

That's the 2006 only I think but will check.
Thanks.

roamer · **Joined:** Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:49 pm **Posts:** 28

Been measuring and think the glow plug module might be the source of the voltage drop.

Is 0281003038 the correct new Bosch number?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 19, 2023 8:19 pm

roamer wrote:

Been measuring and think the glow plug module might be the source of the voltage drop.
Is 0281003038 the correct new Bosch number?

Quote:

Mopar Numbers:
New OEM glow plug controller - 56044671AC
Glow plug harness, engine side - 5142576AA
Glow plug harness, battery side - 68032863AA

It appears the Bosch Glow Plug Module 0281003034 has been updated/superseded to 0281003038

roamer · **Joined:** Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:49 pm **Posts:** 28

WWDiesel wrote:

roamer wrote:

Been measuring and think the glow plug module might be the source of the voltage drop.
Is 0281003038 the correct new Bosch number?

Quote:

Mopar Numbers:
New OEM glow plug controller - 56044671AC
Glow plug harness, engine side - 5142576AA
Glow plug harness, battery side - 68032863AA

It appears the Bosch Glow Plug Module 0281003034 has been updated/superseded to 0281003038

Thanks buddy

roamer · **Joined:** Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:49 pm **Posts:** 28

It's alive!!! :BANANA:

Only my torso's left but it's finally solved.
So, the culprit..... the frickkin camshaft sensor was installed incorrectly!
The garage my Jeep was towed to didn't push the sensor all the way in, continued to tighten the bolt.
Cracked it but didn't notice?!
By the looks it was ~5mm short. :banghead:

I'd like to thank all that chipped in, especially WWDiesel for the ton if info given.
Main takeaway for me is never to trust another mans job, even if it's supposedly a professional.
I hope this helps someone.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 28, 2023 2:48 pm

Wonderful!!! :BANANA:

That's a new one to add to the list of things to check on a no start. Don't believe anyone has ever reported that issue before, you are the first that I know of.
Will add that to the list of what to check in a "no start" condition; check your cam sensor and make darn sure it is fully seated.

The same would be true for the crankshaft sensor as they both must have very close proximity to the trigger wheel for the hall effect sensor to function properly and produce the desired and proper signal for the ECM.

Getting desperate, no ignition.

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