Looking for VM 9075A tool for rent or sale

olddesertrat · **Joined:** Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:54 am **Posts:** 34

Got everything disconnect from valve cover, electronics out of the way, very carefully cleaned are fuel injectors
and have everything soaking for PB Blaster.

As my 1st time taking off valve cover and fuel injectors, thought it would be easy to buy or rent the injector removal tool, VM9075A when I needed it.

Ouch!!! Sasquatch no longer lists rental page on website. Have emailed them to see if they still offer rent, just not advertising.

Looked around on internet: Yes, it is available....for $465-$1200!!!!

Triple ouch!!

So do any of you CDR fans out there have the tool that you could rent or sell to me?
Prefer rent, as I have no plans to every do this again.
Thanks

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Fri Mar 24, 2023 9:12 pm

Have you tried removing the injectors without it? Not really needed unless they are stuck.

Sent from my SM-S906W using Tapatalk

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Sat Mar 25, 2023 12:07 am

This is how I do them. Start from front to back.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/libertydi ... tid=Nif5oz

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 272

Agree...no special tool necessary to remove injectors. You will need new crush washers when you reinstall.

olddesertrat · **Joined:** Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:54 am **Posts:** 34

Thanks for encouragement to go ahead and remove injectors without Miller tool.

You are correct, special tool was completely unneeded!!!
In fact, removing injectors was easier than all the other work disconnecting things from the valve cover.

That was the good news.
Bad news: Every single on of rockers was broken.
Yes, all 16 were broken. Cracked right next to the cam contact bearing. Must have made a heck of a noise when happened.

So...

1. All rockers broken
2. 225,000 miles on engine.
3. Know valve failure problems around 200,000 miles.
4. Intake ports coated with around 3/8 inch of soot....

Now seriously thinking of pulling of cylinder head and having it rebuilt with new valves.
Does not look like it would that much more work than what have already done to it.
Any recommendations for head rebuild service?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Mar 28, 2023 1:36 pm

Any good reputable automotive machine shop should be able to service your head.
All it needs is to have the head cleaned good, check valve guides for sticking, (valve guides on these engines just don't wear out) replace valves and new valves lapped in to make sure of a good seal.
DO NOT allow anyone to resurface your head, it is not supposed to be done on this engine due to it comes from the factory with a thin nickel coating on the sealing surface and if it is machined, it will remove this surface. Factory Service Manual States this factually!

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 272

olddesertrat wrote:

Thanks for encouragement to go ahead and remove injectors without Miller tool.

You are correct, special tool was completely unneeded!!!
In fact, removing injectors was easier than all the other work disconnecting things from the valve cover.

That was the good news.
Bad news: Every single on of rockers was broken.
Yes, all 16 were broken. Cracked right next to the cam contact bearing. Must have made a heck of a noise when happened.

So...

1. All rockers broken
2. 225,000 miles on engine.
3. Know valve failure problems around 200,000 miles.
4. Intake ports coated with around 3/8 inch of soot....

Now seriously thinking of pulling of cylinder head and having it rebuilt with new valves.
Does not look like it would that much more work than what have already done to it.
Any recommendations for head rebuild service?

So your rockers were sacrificial!!! Great outcome in the big picture. WWDiesel will never lead you astray. He is extremely wise and experienced.

Picking up on your "soot" comment. Please tell me you have your EGR deleted, FCV removed, and exhaust feed tube blocked off. Also, please tell me your CCV is going through a Provent air/oil separator!!!! Done right, you are not sucking in sooty exhaust, well...none actually, and your turbo is not being fed with oil infused air!!!

I went as far as to install a Synthetic EGR (SEGR) so my computer is happy...happy!!! But those are far and few between.

olddesertrat · **Joined:** Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:54 am **Posts:** 34

Hi Taroo:

Sadly the answer to all your questions is no. This 2005 Liberty CDR with 225,000 miles is 100% stock.
Intake is a gooey mess. Should stop raining tomorrow, will try to take and post pictures.
Have 2006 and do not want to see this happen to it, will be studying forum to learn how to do all your recommended mods.

Is soot not the correct word for the black sludge? If understand correctly, the EGR routes exhaust fumes and crankshaft fumes back to intake.
But the crank fumes mix with carbon particles forming a greasy black sludge that deposits on intake walls.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 31, 2023 12:36 am

The black gooey mud pies is made when the exhaust from the EGR is mixed with the incoming oil vapors from the CCV system.
This is why most owners that can eliminate the EGR system by whatever means necessary.

The oily vapors coming into the intake itself is not a major problem, but it does contaminate the insides of the CAC (intercooler) making it less effective and the oily liquids can condense and collect in the bottom of the charge air cooler which is NOT good. The oil will also rot the rubber turbo suction intake pipe over time that connects the turbo to the air filter housing.

That is why many owners opt to install a ProVent coalescing cyclonic type filter in the CCV line to remove 90% of the suspended oily liquids from the vapors before they are allowed to enter the turbo suction pipe and CAC.

Looking for VM 9075A tool for rent or sale

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