I just purchased an 05 left over.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWN%3AIT

I drove it 700 miles home and have to say its descent little rig.
I would say its probably a 6-7/10 hampered by a few problems
I'm going to list below.

The BAD:

1: I asked the dealer to perform and TSB's relating to my car has I had
read torque converter issues and odd shifting. They informed me none
apply to my VIN. The TSB you guys have in the forums says it for 06
CRD's does this apply to mine as well? My jeep drones around 50mph-60mph.
The tone is very low like the engine is lugging its not real noticable going
downhill or on the flats but, uphill its really annoying. If I hit overdrive
it backshifts and the noise is gone. I've tried to give it more "gas"
but thing rufuses to backshift and when it does I overshoot my
target speed.

2. It sound like I have a air leak coming from my passanger side
window but I can't see the cause. I read someone else on this board
has this problem. Any ideas what the cause.

3. My wiper sprayers for my front windshield are DOA. The rear sprayer
works and the wipers move when the fronts should be spraying. Ideas?

4. Where do they usually hide the manual?

5. I really don't like the way it shifts. Its not a very steady
accelleration. It blasts off the line, then kinda falls on its face
then it kinda gets going again. It feels really odd and very
un-natural compaired to every other car I've driven.


The Good:
My first tank got me 22mpg driving around 75-80mph which
I am very happy with. My second tank is only at 3/4 and I
have driven 200 miles on it. Nice. I can't wait till it breaks in!

Passing and climbing hill turning O/D off is alot of fun.
For a little Liberty this thing screams. Also, from a
stop it pulls like a frieght train. The motor is very quiet
and only sounds diesel like driving around parking lots and
when the motor is cold.

I look forward to driving the Jeep especially if I can get
the tranny it shift descently.

Upgrades / Ideas:
1. I plan to do some sort of CCV fix soon as I don't want
to start having EGR troubles and sludge in my intake.
Has anyone run the breather pipe under the
filter pannel like they used to do on the 4.0L. That way the pannel
filter can filter the oil out? Also the airbox looks easy to remove and
clean.

2. Anyone try this kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... %3AIT&rd=1

3. When should I do my first oil change? Will running synthetic to early
hamper the break in process?

_________________
05 CRD Sport
Digi CR

regarding #3. The CRD comes from the factory with synthetic motor oil.

A lot of us changed it out early on (500-1500 miles) because of numerous reports of crud left over from the manufacturing processs. Don't know if true, but the change didn't hurt.

Cliff

Glad you like your new CRD.

OIL: It came with synthetic in it. Many switch to a CI-plus 4 or CI-4 plus (forget the SAE rating) 5W-40 synthetic to get an oil rated for soot control. Like Shell Rotella Synthetic. Since it is an '05 leftover, that is it has some age on that oil, you can replace it anytime. We are 6 months into '06, so it has been sitting for a longer period than that. Not critical, but it has 0W-40 in it, synthetic Castrol I suppose. You have already run out the B5 in it, so that is good as the "B" part was likely not in good condition.

TSBs: If the TSBs have been applied, especially engines flashes, there should be labels on the radiator panel that give the date and number of the TSB. That is required by law. The Tranny TSB should be reviewed and you'll have to confirm the Julian calender date of your transmission by crawling under it and reading the date stamped on the label. The TSB explains the procedure. there were several TSBs for the '05, particulularly the Transmission ones.

Droning: Would have to know what gear you actually were in. Probably just the engine lugging a bit. Do you mean OD is in the locked out position when this occurs? Then, it would not be lugging and I don't know what it is. What is "backshift"? Do you mean it downhifts or upshifts?

Wipers: you may not understand the control yet. Be sure you have read the manual and know which switch controls which. If you simply lift up the stalk, you should get washers and a wipe on fromt. The rear operates from the little roll switch on stalk.

Manual: It is hidden in the recess slot just above the OPENED glove compartment cavity. It is hidden for sure.

Shifts: Welcome to the CRD. It will be jerky at minimal throttle and better closer to full throttle. That is a result of the electronic programming of the fuel delivery. Basically, it takes a long moment to accelerate, does well through the midrange, say to 60 and then, has increasingly less power as you increase the speed. The torque is there, it will "pull" but will not accelerate rapidly on the top end. No horsepower there, only torque. It is a diesel so the torque is maximized at low rpm for economy of operation.

CCV: I don't know but OldNavy can explain the CCV thing. And, a search here will reveal how others have dealt with the CCV "piping".

Your mileage should improve considerable. Are you driving around with 4-wheel drive engaged? That just wastes fuel. It will also use more fuel if you are locking out OD at Interstate speeds.

Good luck!l

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06 CRD Spoat

The hose might have popped off where it enters the passenger A-pillar from the engine bay. Turn the wash on for 15 seconds with the car parked and look for a puddle under the car. If there is you'll need to pop out one of the trim screws that holds the wiper valence down on the passenger side, pull it up a little and reach in to connect the hose back to the nipple. This happened to mine.

Regarding #2. Several of us here have installed the kit and seem to like it. It quickens the 1-2, 2-3, and 4-5 shifts, but doesn't cause chirping or slamming shifts like shift kits of older days. It doesn't change the timing of the shifts as they are computer controlled. Here is my installation: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transgo.htm

I like the idea of running the CCV line before the air filter...I never thought of that. Does anyone know why this would be a bad idea? The air filter would get dirty quicker but you have to change it anyway.

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My Jeep Liberty page

ORM, air filter mod, and less restrictive exhaust has increased my 'everyday' driving 3 mpg.

Good idea, Stan. Got my interest peaked. I am going to look into that type of fix. Sure makes sense on the surface.

Cliff

If you mean venting the CCV line into the air filter box, I think the air filter would get wetter sooner (with oil). I think the wet filter (from water) is what causes a massive intake of oil into the intake system from blown turbo seals. Don't know that clogging the air filter with moisture would have favorable effects.

The CCV hose can be run down to the undercarriage and if there is some guilt about it, vent it into a plastic bottle which itself is "vented" at the top. That was Dodge's solution for the Cummins diesel for several years. Course, some crankcase fumes are vented into the atmosphere.

Also, with the shift kit: if it doesn't change the timing of the shifts, what is the point of the kit? Just curious. Are you saying that it reduces slippage, resulting in quicker, firmer shifts but that the actual rpm,fuel demand timing of the shifts stays the same? I noticed with the last flash that the shifts were a bit more noticeable as before it was like driving a Powerglide of yesteryear.

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06 CRD Spoat

Ok, I'll check out the oils for CI-4 Plus Spec.



I checked the radatior support and my jeep has not had any TSBs applied to it. My build date is 05/05.


Backshifting = Shifting a lower gear number.
My problem occurs when my transmission shifts into 5th. The engine rpms around usually around 1800rpm.


I can't lift up on lever, I can only push it down. Thats what the picture on it shows to do. My wipers move
but no motor noise. I can hear the pump for the rear wipers with the window open and the engine off.



Heh, I found the slot but no manual. I'll have to call the dealer.

Shifts: Welcome to the CRD. It will be jerky at minimal throttle and better closer to full throttle. That is a result of the electronic programming of the fuel delivery. Basically, it takes a long moment to accelerate, does well through the midrange, say to 60 and then, has increasingly less power as you increase the speed. The torque is there, it will "pull" but will not accelerate rapidly on the top end. No horsepower there, only torque. It is a diesel so the torque is maximized at low rpm for economy of operation.

CCV: I don't know but OldNavy can explain the CCV thing. And, a search here will reveal how others have dealt with the CCV "piping".



I'm driving in 2WD mode.


Thanks for the help! Any more is wellcome.

groucho: I was thinking of JB welding in a brass bung in the bottom corner of the air box.

What size is the CCV hose? Looks like 5/8"

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05 CRD Sport
Digi CR

The CCV hose has a 3/4" inside diameter.

I think the reason some people have installed the shift kit is it is supposed to eliminate the shudder...which it reportedly does. I never really had problem with the shudder so I don't know if it does or not. I like it because it takes most of the slop out of the transmission shifting.

I did think of one possible negative to hooking the CCV vent to the air filter. If for some reason the oil mist got through the air filter it might mess up the mass air flow sensor. Any thoughts? This might be the reason the engineers put the inlet where they did.

_________________
My Jeep Liberty page

ORM, air filter mod, and less restrictive exhaust has increased my 'everyday' driving 3 mpg.

Mitsubishi and Mazda do this on their turbo cars without any issue.

Two big things to remember is the lower airbox is open so the vacume won't be has great as
the vacume the turbo causes. Also you could put a small container in the box and some of the oil may collect
in that. The qty of oil coming out of the CCV vent should 1/2 of what the turbo sucks out.

_________________
05 CRD Sport
Digi CR

Venting the CCV into the airbox is a bad idea on a diesel. Diesels produce much more blowby which is also much more oil laiden than any healthy gasser. You still get heavy draft on either side of the filter and you definately want any oil past the MAF and the other tiny sensor in the lid of the filter box. Can assure you that this filer (paper OEM) will plug from the oily vapor. I have already found this cold air intake can't even handle rain water without trashing the filter. Messed will to many diesels over the years and know better, just a bad idea. You do need CCV protection on this engine. Provent and Racor make products designed for this purpose.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Unfortunately not always true, depends entirely on your dealership. I have had 2 or 3 PCM flashes, which state that the label is required by Federal law, and there has never been any label applied to my PCM. The last one that was actually done, took 2 hours to accomplish - I watched while it was done. No label. It came from the factory with one applied, as it was flashed before it left the factory - it was one of the early ones built in March 05. So don't take it for granted that the labels will be there. It looks like the only sure way is to have your dealership have it checked online. Their system can read your VIN, PCM software revisions and update it with with the required ones. That's assuming you can find a dealership willing to spend the time to do it. I don't think they make much money for flashing the CRD's. The time allotments don't look very generous on the TSB's.

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2005 LTD CRD RB1 NAV/Htd Leather seats/Amsoil EA filters
SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
Fuel cooler/Lift Pump/10um Pri/Racor R490 2um Sec Fuel Filters
IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
Cobalt Boost/EGT/Oil/Trans/Volt gauges/Aeroturbine 2525
Yeti Hot Tune/Odessey 65/Samco's/Michelin Defenders

Ranger1:

I think the dealers have been squeezed by DC to the limit on warranty work. I am sure they don't appreciate "hunting" for a problem as that is not compensated. DC apparently doesn't care about customer reaction.

There is a Dodge dealer here that was fantastic. I haven't been there in about a year but they had fantastic service department and I hadn't even purchased the truck there. They were tops with a Cummins Dodge! It helps when the technician drives the same vehicle and is a fan. I should have bought a vehicle from them but that can change also. A good service department is worth its weight in gold, in my opinion.

So far, my experience with Jeep is "cannot replicate" the first time for any warranty work. I suppose if a rod came through the pan they might hop on it but otherwise... That is one reason I canceled the extended service contract. If they don't have a service dept., what good is an extended contract? But, they are good on non-warranty work, as they get paid very well and get right to it. Since the last flash, mine is running ok.

Kingofl337: Find a dealer you trust that will hook it up to the computer and see what it needs. You dealer may have told you the truth or he may not have. You didn't get the owners manual apparently. All the booklets fit in a small canvas folder that fits neatly into that secret slot. You'll have to play that one out since there are no TSB stickers present. I think the sticker is only required if an adjustment was made that might reflect a change in exhaust emissions. Dunno.

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06 CRD Spoat

I have yet to find a reason to put the car out of overdrive. Diesels do best at lower rpms where they generate max torque. Save yourself some fuel economy and noise by leaving OD engaged.

Drewd: Many would not have a good reason to switch the tranny out of OD. I live in a rural area and have lots of gravel roads with lots of hills. The constant shifting of the tranny in and out of OD is not a good thing for very long. I usually will keep it out until I get to the highway and then get above 55. Rarely am I at or above 55 on the gravel. However, with the hills, the tranny will go into OD downhill then back out uphill.

Taking the OD out on the highway just to pass is not necessary or for that matter a good thing. On a real cold winter day, I will sometimes keep the OD out until the tranny warms up. But that is only on the two lane highway to town.

It is true, as some have stated, that low RPMs are where diesels do their thing best. But also studying a torque, horse, and fuel chart on the motor will sometimes tell a different story. I got the chart on the motor from VM showing points for best torque, horsepower, and minimum fuel usage. Didn't rely on the chart on the Jeep site.

Cliff

You need to pull the lever toward you, not push it towards the floor.

I figured out the washers this evening while playing with it. Thanks for the info.

Using O/D Lock out won't harm the tranny in any way. When towing you are
supposed to use it to keep from overheating the tranny. So, using it unloaded
won't cause any harm. I haven't seen a dyno chart of a CRD but I bet it makes
the best torque around 2300rpm. Because at 1600-1900 it lugs pretty badly.

I'm going to play with the CCV and see what I come up with. Hopefully oldnavy will
have a better solution.

_________________
05 CRD Sport
Digi CR

It makes peak torque at 1800 rpm.

Thats what car-point says but it sure doesn't feel like its making 295ft-lbs at 1800rpm.
In 5th gear at 1800 mine resinates through out the cabin at that RPM. Like its
lugging, espcially loaded like going up hills. As soon as it shifts to a lower gear or
I speed up 2200rpm in 5th the car pulls like a raped ape!

_________________
05 CRD Sport
Digi CR