poor mans provent or rich mans EHM?

ccattie · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2008 2:33 pm

I am not sure I feel like springing for the Provent. I don't feel like dropping 200 on something that will need expensive filters for life. I like the low cost of the EHM, but I hate the idea of dripping oil all over from the EHM. I saw the soda bottle at the end which would solve the dripping issue, but it is a bit ghetto

I'd like to do something for maybe $50.00 tops. I saw something made from PVC that TheTDIWagonGuy made, but no instructions on how to make it or where to buy it. I tried searching for it, but found mostly the standard EHM posts and what not. Does anybody have a middle of the road fix?
-c

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2008 3:32 pm

I made one from PVC like TDiWagonguy. There has been so much interest, and since the wife is out of town, I have full access to the CRD. I will take pictures of mine and post them this weekend.

ccattie · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2008 3:49 pm

That would be awesome. I might have some free time this holiday weekend so it would be a good time for me to try.
-c

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

Ok heres what i did.....

I ran a 2 inch piece of 1 inch OD (3/4 inch ID) heater hose off the CCV then a 90 degree brass futting. Then another short piece of hose to another 90 degree brass fitting. Then i ran enough hose to go over to the passenger side of the car and connected it to a 3/4 inch threaded METAL conduit box. You can get those at home depot only, in my area. Couldnt find them at Ace or Lowes. I theaded a straight pvc fitting in the center hole and the bottom and a 90 degree on the top for the air. I used thread tape on the fittings to help with sealing for now. Then inside the box i used one piece of extra fine steel wool to separate the oil from air. For the bottom piece i used about six inches of hose with a brass plug in the bottom. At the plug i cut a small piece of hose and wrapped around the outside of the plug and drain hose because it rests on the body and it stopped the rattling. Then the air outlet goes out the top fitting and into the intake like normal. I have only been using this whole setup for about 300 miles and have a little bit of oil draining into the hose. Notice the position of the steel wool in the box. The first time i did this mod i stuffed it full of steel wool and then the wool collected the oil and it was hard for it to drain so i ended up getting a little oil back into the intake, like the stock setup. I think that i have that part fixed with the two brass 90 degree angles and the single piece of steel wool in the middle of the box but only time will tell. So far the outlet is bone dry again and the inlet has significantly less oil traces with the two brass fitting. I used brass close to the engine because i had a plastic one warp there and caught it before it was a problem. I believe the heat from the crankcase did it, not the temperature of the oil vapor. For that reason and for weight i decided to leave the plastic fittings on the conduit box. Use hose fittings wherever you can but definately at the drain hose and the hose connecting to the CCV. The box comes with the paper gasket which will absorb some of your oil and it hasnt leaked yet for me. Could use some RTV but im going to wait until i stop checking the thing every couple of days.

Let me know what you guys think. I would appreciate any feedback or improvement ideas.

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:40 am

Aandlwoods,

Neat idea with the steel wool in Conduit box.

however,
It would be bad for the if that steel rusts out, disintegrates and gets sucked into the turbo, however.
Also bad if the oil cakes up and blocks inlet of the conduit box, pressurizing the crankcase.

I felt that the overpressure relief mechanism of the Provent was a good (needed) feature. There is not much of a chance of anything getting to the turbo either.

Bill

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

I know what you mean about the pressure thing. I think that a brass check valve could fix that problem. Steel wool.... i couldnt think of anything else to use and i saw how others had used it in bottles at the end of their EHM's and figured it was an ok idea. I dont think that it will rust before i get in there and replace it and i check it often. It really concerned me about the turbo sucking it in at first but there really isnt that much pressure there. I think maybe a faucet screen could minimize that problem. Bill, what is the collection rate of the provent and how often do you check it? Could you post some pics? Thanks for the feedback. Any suggestions other than steel wool inside it?

UFO · **Posted:** Thu Jul 03, 2008 10:53 am

I used a stainless steel dish scrubber to condense the oil vapor. I get about a cup of oil at oil change time from the drain tube.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:31 pm

aandlwoods wrote:

I know what you mean about the pressure thing. I think that a brass check valve could fix that problem.

You would want a pressure relief valve, not a check valve. A check valve prevents the flow in one direction when the pressure drops below its set pressure. A pressure relief valve opens to relieve pressure above a set pressure.

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Thu Jul 03, 2008 3:05 pm

I get 1/3 cup per 4000 miles.
the filter looks like it will be holding up just fine. It is fully saturated and works fine. Not sure why I would ever have to replace the filter, unless it breaks down/ disintegrates ?!?

danoid · **Posted:** Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:45 pm

What about just rerouting the hose to the air filter box on the dirty side? There should be plenty of space to pack a little condenser/catch pan (about Campells Soup sized I'm thinking). And anything that gets out still has to go through the air filter. What damage can a little oil do to the paper filter? These things seem to eat them quickly anyways...

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:17 am

Well, I discovered the camera left town with my wife. I will try to figure out this other one and post pics, but it might be a bit later.

ccattie · **Posted:** Fri Jul 04, 2008 12:41 pm

Sounds like a good idea. What kind of nice little catch can products can you think of?
-c

danoid wrote:

What about just rerouting the hose to the air filter box on the dirty side? There should be plenty of space to pack a little condenser/catch pan (about Campells Soup sized I'm thinking). And anything that gets out still has to go through the air filter. What damage can a little oil do to the paper filter? These things seem to eat them quickly anyways...

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-Reservoir-Catch-Can-Tank-240SX-300Z-350Z-G35-SILVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6778QQihZ019QQitemZ290243355538QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohosting

I have been thinking about these if my version doesnt work out. What do you guys think?

UFO · **Posted:** Sat Jul 05, 2008 12:25 am

I used a 90 degree 3/4" hose barb to make the turn from the valve cover to the middle of the CCV body.

CCV body is a 1-1/2" T with bushing adapters and 3/4" hose barbs. Drain is 1/2" at bottom, with a ball valve.

The intake hose has a flexible support to keep it from collapsing.

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Sat Jul 05, 2008 1:49 am

danoid wrote:

What about just rerouting the hose to the air filter box on the dirty side? There should be plenty of space to pack a little condenser/catch pan (about Campells Soup sized I'm thinking). And anything that gets out still has to go through the air filter. What damage can a little oil do to the paper filter? These things seem to eat them quickly anyways...

Consider the presure differentials. The idea is the a slight vacuum (relative to local atmospheric pressure) will pull the crankcase oil vapor to be burned in the air intake. The stock design is to use the vacuum pressure after the air filter. This pressure drop is, what, a couple of PSI relative to ambient.
If you try to pull a vacuum from the upstream side of the filter.... well, this pressure is going to be darn close to atmospheric. In other words... there will not be a lot of suck on the dirty side of the filter.

So, there will not be much negative pressure to pull the oil vapor through the filter, thus pressuriszng the crankcase (oil leaks thru the seals).

My humble opinion

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jul 05, 2008 12:01 pm

Bill.Barg wrote:

So, there will not be much negative pressure to pull the oil vapor through the filter, thus pressuriszng the crankcase (oil leaks thru the seals).

My humble opinion

There will certainly be more vacuum than the original EHM which dozens of people run. However, there is no way I would plumb that crap into my airbox, air filter, and MAF(however unplugged).

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52205/10002/-1?CT=999

ccattie · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:51 pm

I had asked about oil separators when I first joined because I used one on my lightning (http://www.lightningforceperformance.co ... p-477.html) and was told they were no good for our use. Can anybody confirm? How about the catchcans seen earlier?
-c

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 1:17 pm

ccattie wrote:

I had asked about oil separators when I first joined because I used one on my lightning (http://www.lightningforceperformance.co ... p-477.html) and was told they were no good for our use. Can anybody confirm? How about the catchcans seen earlier?
-c

The only reason that may not work is the hose barb size. The CCV is 3/4" and I would hesitate to neck that down as it may reduce flow.

ccattie · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 1:52 pm

This would probably be great if I can get some more info
http://www.saikoumichi.com/951_page.htm
-c

poor mans provent or rich mans EHM?

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