Mobil 0w40 or Mobil 5w40

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 7:33 am

Here, one can read about Mobil 1 0w40 without any mention for use on turbo diesels:
Mobil 1 0W-40 fully synthetic motor oil keeps engines starting in Arctic-extreme cold, and it cleans deposits, sludge and varnish often formed in high temperature operating conditions

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... 0W-40.aspx

And here mobil 5w40 for turbo diesel truck:
Engineered to help extend engine life in modern turbo-charged diesel engines, this formula meets the latest industry standards, including CJ- 4, and exceeds the requirements for both light duty and heavy duty diesel equipment.

Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck reduces low-temperature sludge build-up and high-temperature deposits through excellent thermal and oxidation stability. High temperatures pose little threat as Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck fully synthetic motor oil maintains its viscosity and has enhanced oil film strength, which helps to reduce engine scuffing and bore polishing. It also provides wear protection and reduced oil consumption with its shear stability.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... 5W-40.aspx

And here is a new one that I have not seen before:
Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 is an advanced performance synthetic motor oil designed to help prolong the life and maintain the efficiency of Car Emission Reduction Systems in diesel powered automobiles that require oil that is approved against Mercedes-Benz MB 229.51 or MB 229.31specifications.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... 5W-40.aspx

Any one have an opinion on these oils or on which one to use?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 8:39 am

After reading all three links it sounds like I can have a oil that :shock:

Starts at extreme low temperatures :banghead:

(my garage is heated and does not go lower then 40f)

Protects my engine against low temperature sludge and high temperature buildups :BANANA:

(sounds like what we need)

Protects my particulate trap :furious:

(Nobody has broken down with a blown particuate trap that I've read about)

In my mind the winner is behind curtain number TWO :JEEPIN:

It's long been recognized as THE oil, when you can find it, over on the TDI club.
But almost always from what is available in the main stream, Shell Rotella 5-40 (blue bottle) comes in a close second.
I'm sure there are premimum oils that give better results for those who want to see 200,000 or more from their engines.

I think the turbo problems we're seeing here and the reports of what people are finding in their oil are a direct result of driving conditions and oil used :ALONE:

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 10:48 am

My opinion?

Shell Rotella T6 is a better oil, and is $19.50/gallon at Walmart. 'Nuff said.

tcoilburner · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 2:46 pm

Applications
Mobil 1 0W-40 is recommended for all types of modern vehicles, especially high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, SUVs, light vans and trucks.

Mobil 1 0W-40 is especially suitable for extreme conditions, where conventional oil often may not perform.
this is from the product sheet link on that page.

I am not saying it is the best, but a good oil. The european rating on the oil is for turbo-diesel engines. In europe oils are made more for the engine manufacture specs than to do what the goverment wants the oil to do.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 3:10 pm

Serious enthusiats use 0W-40.... not many VW's deep in the back country.

Glend · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 4:13 pm

Stay away from Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel - it is CJ rated and that formulation has talked about as prone to produce premature cam follower wear. There are plenty of others to choose from. A synthetic CH or CI is great oil for the KJ CRD. In fact Mobil 1 (CF) is probably good enough if you change it every 5000 miles. Mobil 1 ESP (I believe) is also formulated to CJ and designed for DPF equipped vehicles (and KJ CRDs do not have them - at least not the export models).

Of course you can add things to CJ oils to correct the forumlation problem:

http://zddppluscentral.com/the_daily_blog_/?y=2010&m=7

Interesting article on where the wear occurs.

Buster · **Joined:** Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:42 pm **Posts:** 10

Mobil One 0W40 is recommended for the Liberty CRD but it's a typical Chrysler screw-up. Mobil One 0W40 is for gasoline engines. You should always use diesel oil in a diesel engine. Mobil makes a synthetic oil for diesels called Delvac One. It's 5W40. Rotella also makes a synthetic 5W40 diesel oil. Rotella is the better buy.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:27 am

Glend, that is good information.

So there are many diesel engines which suffer wrist pin failure due to insufficient lubrication or anti-wear agent concentration and using the wrong type of synthetic motor oil in our CRD can lead to engine catastrophy.

I gather that Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 is a new formulation and was not considered by DC when they first developed the CRD.

I searched the web but couldn't find any info on what VM Motori specifies for motor oil in their engine.

Does anybody know?

Glend · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 7:34 am

The VM2.8L is also used by Mercruiser as their 2.8L engine. Perhaps they have a view on the oil specification for that engine.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 7:52 am

Glend wrote:

The VM2.8L is also used by Mercruiser as their 2.8L engine. Perhaps they have a view on the oil specification for that engine.

Two things different from a CRD.
Not many boats venture out at zero f.
Boat engines work harder because they are constantly under a lot of torque keeping the craft moving. Boat's don't coast like a Jeep :BANANA:

jinstall · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 8:20 am

When I came from Germany Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 is the oil I have been using the whoole time. I get it at the Mecedes dealer in Jacksonville FL when I am there because it is $2.50 a liter cheaper down there.

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:13 am

The Mercruiser engine is very much different from the automotive engine. It'll run on 15w40 all day long without an issue, but it's not designed for frigid self-sustained cold starts either (or frequently for the few times it would).

For pre-2008MY engine (w/o DPF), any quality 0w40 / 5w40 / 10w40 CI-4/CJ-4, etc. oil is fine for use depending on where you live. 0w40 is for someone in fairbanks, AK where it's -40/-50F at night in winter. For most average users, 5w40 is your best bet for cold starting and fuel economy impact.

For 2008+ MY engines w/ DPF, use only a low-ash oil designed for engine with DPF -- this is due to interaction with DPF regeneration. For this you want an oil such as Mobil1 ESP 5w30/5w40, NOT the "turbo diesel truck engine 5w40" oil. QuakerState Q-Diesel and Rotella T6 full syn 5w40 are also good DPF-compatible products.

The oils are backwards compatible, but not forwards.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 7:22 pm

I can tell you that when the temp is -30F, the difference between M1 0-40 and M1 5-40TD means a Jeep that starts and one that doesn't. Some time this week I'll be changing over to M1 0-30 with a bottle of Lucas ZDDP engine break in additive.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 8:05 pm

nursecosmo wrote:

Some time this week I'll be changing over to M1 0-30 with a bottle of Lucas ZDDP engine break in additive.

This product is less expensive at $6 per treatment when you oreder 5 bottles :BANANA:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-ZDDP-M ... ccessories

Joe

SPN-87 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:09 pm **Posts:** 53

nursecosmo wrote:

Some time this week I'll be changing over to M1 0-30 with a bottle of Lucas ZDDP engine break in additive.

What for? You hurry up to kill your motor? VM is a very expencive for repairing....
Just my :2cents:

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 12:50 pm

SPN-87,

Is ZDDP bad for the engine?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 12:58 pm

SPN-87 wrote:

nursecosmo wrote:

Some time this week I'll be changing over to M1 0-30 with a bottle of Lucas ZDDP engine break in additive.

What for? You hurry up to kill your motor? VM is a very expencive for repairing....
Just my :2cents:

Yes the VM is very expensive to repair and that's exactly why they put zink in the oils to begin with. But US EPA is requiring the automakers to warrant catalic converters for 100k miles and to do so it's necessary to reduce/eliminate the ZINK content in motor oils. Reducing the ZINK content in engine oils is deadly to certain engine components :dead:

If you go to the site I listed above they may explain it better :wink:

That's what for :jester:

Ractracker,

Google using "engine oil zink removing" or any other combination you can come up with then read up on it :SOMBRERO:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 3:56 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

My opinion?

Shell Rotella T6 is a better oil, and is $19.50/gallon at Walmart. 'Nuff said.

My local Walmart that used to have Rotella T6 5-40 has not had for the last two months in the quarts or gallons. But they now have Mobil1 5-40 turbo diesel truck oil that they rarely had in the past :?:

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:43 pm

Thanks Joe. For the skeptical, here is a link to more info about oil than most folks care to know. Be prepared to read for a day or so.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index ... &Itemid=58

SPN-87: investigate "Spell Check".

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 8:06 pm

Here's a chart showing the different Mobil 1 synthetics with the zink and Phosphorus levels and the application they are recommended for. Notice that Turbo Diesel truck oil is 1200 and only motor cycle and racing oils have highter levels.
http://www.mobil.com/usa-english/motoro ... _guide.pdf

Mobil 0w40 or Mobil 5w40

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