Fuel Water Separator Blues (cant find part) CRD

Jimbob · **Joined:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:05 pm **Posts:** 160

Ok I have the typical oil in the heater plug on my fuel/water separator, and I need a little help

I can find the separator itself from MoparPartsAmerica

But cant find the pigtail to adapt the new style assembly
68043086AB

I need some help, anyone know another supply house? Alternatively can the pigtail be made? I dont feel great running it like this for long, it doesnt seem to be bad now that I bled out the line but still.........

Jimbob · **Joined:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:05 pm **Posts:** 160

I hope this is a disregard, I think I found one (think is the word with some of these online parts vendors). Let me know some alternative sources though incase it doesnt come.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 31, 2011 5:19 pm

Lots of site's search by part # are not that functional now but go to http://www.jeepoemparts.com/oem-jeep-parts.html which lists the part of $12.13. To get to search by part # lie and click on returning customer; ignore the apparent error message and click on OEM Jeep Parts; then search by part #. Best call them to confirm that it's the right 2nd gen pigtail. They also seem to have the best price on the head right now.

The wire is not the big deal it's the plug at the end that I doubt can be found to make the part yourself.

Wobbly · **Posted:** Tue May 31, 2011 6:04 pm

The pigtail connector was inside the box when I bought my replacement filter head from a Jeep dealer.

Jimbob · **Joined:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:05 pm **Posts:** 160

I think I got it, supposedly it shipped. Dont know if it comes with a filter.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue May 31, 2011 9:50 pm

bbo wrote:

not the best pic, but you should get the idea:

and for those of you interested in the part numbers for the new:

Separator 68043089AA
Connector 68043086AA

make sure they order the connector too

new installed on the left .. old set on the right for reference

and it comes with a new filter installed

Jimbob · **Joined:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:05 pm **Posts:** 160

Got it in the mail today, darn JustJeeps ships fast.

Looks right as far as I can tell and includes the wiring kit, they sell it as a package. $130 shipped to my door with a filter.

Hopefully the install wont be to bad, if i am lucky the fuel hoses will come off relatively easy. Was going to order a new hose kit but couldnt find it anywhere.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2011 6:54 am

Push the fuel hoses off, don't try to pull them as all that does is make them grab on tighter

Jimbob · **Joined:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:05 pm **Posts:** 160

I am ready to attempt this, anyone have a how to on the web? I am not worried about the mechanical part at this point but I dont have any instructiosn for the pigtail for the new heater connector.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Jun 04, 2011 7:39 am

Jimbob wrote:

I am ready to attempt this, anyone have a how to on the web? I am not worried about the mechanical part at this point but I dont have any instructiosn for the pigtail for the new heater connector.

It's just a heater, just cut off the old connector and put the wires on

Polarity does not make any difference :JEEPIN:

Just make sure you cut off the correct old connector. It does not goes to the WIF sensor. It goes to the fuel heater :BANANA:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 04, 2011 8:24 am

1) disengage locking tab, remove heater plug from the driver's side of gen 1 fuel head (see the picture of the new plug at http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/76.page), this order prevents you from mixing up the wiring; 2) remove heater plug wiring from protective cover (per picture the wire colors don't match-Joe is right polarity doesn't matter but it's a good idea to match wire size as closely as possible); 3) wire in new heater plug, we used marine grade heat shrink butt connectors, solder and heat shrink tubing or good electrical tape will do (beware cheap electrical tape whose glue will soon turn to goop, use 3M or equal pro grade tape); we staggered the connections so they were not next to each other (EDIT-the wire pigtail pkt contains 2 sets of wire, you only use one, a new plug and a blue plug cap-you need to thread one wire of each color into the new plug and then press on the blue cap to hold the wires in place; there are no instructions but how to do this is relatively clear once you take a careful look at things); 3) stuff the wiring back into its protective covering (if you used butt connectors use a larger piece of covering; 4) remove the other power plug from the head and reach under the filter and remove the WIF electical connection (I think there is a locking tab you need to press while pulling down but if you cannot get it off I think there is enough wire for the head to be removed to gain access - EDIT yes there is enough wire so I'd do this after unbolting the head/filter assembly from the firewall); 5) undo the clamps on the fuel lines and PUSH the lines off (pulling makes them grab on tighter), ideally plug each line with a dowel or golf tee to keep diesel from dripping everywhere; 6) undo the 2 nuts holding the head to the firewall and remove head; 7) if you have a 2006 model now is a good time to see if there is any chafing on the wiring harness that's behind the head; 08) reverse the process to install the new head; 9) bleed all the air out of the new head, do NOT try to shorten this process by filling the new filter with fuel from the old filter or some other unfiltered source as bad things may happen; 10) run engine 5 minutes or so and rebleed; 11) enjoy beer or other beverage of choice as you are done. FYI since the new head comes with a new filter which has a new WIF sensor I'd save the old WIF sensor off your old filter for possible future use.

Jimbob · **Joined:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:05 pm **Posts:** 160

It was actually really easy, thanks guys went in without a hitch. Drives better than it has in weeks (can feel the ecotune again)

Now to add insult to injury the left rear window regulator failed after I put it down to vent out some of the diesel smell from bleeding the system. This vehicle and I have a love hate relationship! Tore the door apart........ugh cant figure what is wrong.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:17 pm

Steiger window regulator fix for any Liberty not just CRD

Jimbob · **Joined:** Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:05 pm **Posts:** 160

Ya I know, but I think it is more than that, the motor runs, wont stop and nothing seems to be moving up and down the worm at all. Think I am going to have to do a regulator assembly, but I might just put one of those in as it goes in so I dont have to worry about it.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:08 am

Jimbob, when the plastic thing breaks the motor runs the worm turns :ROTFL:

but nothing moves, if the window is down it generally stays down and if it's up it often falls down. It's a virtual certainty your problem is nothing but the plastic part. I see you have a 2006 model. Go to http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp13001.html and scroll down to the bottom of the page to the Wizard and Spotter Guide links for information on 2006 parts. There was a switch in design on the assembly line about 3/15/06 plus some folks who had a dealer warranty replacement done also got the later design. I'd strongly recommend you dig into the door to see what's actually broken before ordering a whole regulator assembly that IMHO you probably don't need.

It takes about 45 minutes per door to do the fix. The problem is so common that I just went ahead and did all 4 of mine before any failed. I would add a comment to the instructions. The instructions mention bending the ball stud shaft so it's parallel to the ground but are not totally clear on why. The why is so that the retention clip, you will see what I mean in the instructions, fits evenly behind the ball head; if it's not even the ball head can pop loose. Once the clip is installed tug on the part a few times to make sure it's secure and after you reach a point just before putting the water dam back on run the window up and down about 12 times to make sure everything stays together. I did not get the clip quite right on one window and, due to a lack of testing, the ball popped loose so I had to go back in :banghead:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:29 am

Did I not read something recently about a KJ window regulators extended warranty :?:

Here's at least one post but it looks like it was a 30 day offer for those made before or after a certain date and it had a $100 co-pay and I understand non oem metal clips are $60

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58747&p=652552&hilit=window+regulator#p652552
They're more post about it too.

Wobbly · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:42 am

Joe Romas wrote:

Did I not read something recently about a KJ window regulators extended warranty :?:

Here's at least one post but it looks like it was a 30 day offer for those made before or after a certain date and it had a $100 co-pay and I understand non oem metal clips are $60

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58747&p=652552&hilit=window+regulator#p652552
They're more post about it too.

The 30 day offer was from Chrysler Customer Service because I kept complaining about not being covered by the warranty. It would have paid for the the balance of the cost to replace a defective regulator after I paid $100 deductible. I ended up buying the repair part from EBAY . It's worked well so far and seems to be equal in quality to the Steiger part I installed on the other rear window.

AhimsaWay · **Posted:** Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:33 pm

A number of related threads point to a GDE link for a pic of the new pigtail install, but I cannot find a pic on the linked page (or gde site)

Anyone help me out by posting one?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:11 am

Go to Sam's NOOB guide which you should read anyway and look for the fuel head bleed video; play that video to the end where there is a picture of the new head with new wiring.

EAB · **Joined:** Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:39 pm **Posts:** 141

I see part of this thread got off topic but i have to add that there is no co-pay on a window lift plate repair under the extended warrenty. This is copied from warrenty bulletin D-10-36:

"Q. Some dealers are charging customers a co‐pay or a diagnostic fee. Is this correct?
A. No, this is not correct. DO NOT charge these customers for any portion of the repair. If we
find dealers charging customers for any portion of these repairs, we will reimburse the
customer and charge back your claim."

I'd call your favorite dealer and see if you fall under the extended warrenty.
Some notes: There are 2 lift plate designs out there, the 'snap-in' and the 'pin style'. Also the liftplate that is installed under the extended warrenty has a much stronger connection between the cable and the plate (where 99% of them brake).

Fuel Water Separator Blues (cant find part) CRD

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