"New" 2005 Jeep Liberty Diesel Turbo CEL

minnisp · **Posted:** Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:47 pm

hi gang,

What a great site ... wonderful information thank you. I'm a newbie here but an old diesel fan (mb, vw and now jeep).

I bought my new liberty crd with 55k miles for 12k. I'm very happy with it. it seems well maintained all of the recalls done. I bought the jeep with a CEL active it reads p1648 on my actron reader but it doesn't seem to be a valid code for anything.

I took it to a dealer in Hattiesburg (mcmullens) today and they said the code is a turbo failing. They told me it's a known defective part, and they advised me not to drive it until the new part arrives. They said they will put me in a rental car until then.

Having read some of the stories of turbo problems, i'm taking their advice. It's still under warranty so, hey, a new turbo sounds good to me. I'm hoping they'll change the hose too, but i doubt it. I'll do that on my own when i get it back if they don't change it.

I'll let you know how mcmullens works out.

PIerre

changingtime · **Posted:** Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:34 pm

I believe the P1648 is a glow plug code? not sure, but if you get a free turbo out if it...why not right?

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22943

minnisp · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:37 am

hi yes i've been searching for that code i saw some posts linking it to glow plugs too. The previous owner said it was glow plug, but the jeep dealer today said it was turbo.

My tool doesn't have a setting for the CRD and so it doesn't tell me anything useful and there's nothing close to p1648 on the alldata list.

i'm going to look at the turbo codes and see if any of them are close to 1648. I read somewhere here that CRD codes are transposed?

P

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

P1648 is a glow relay module fault. This part is located just behind the battery. It has several wires hook to it and has BOSCH lettering. Nothing to do with a turbo, seems the dealer wants some warranty dollars from Chrysler.

It may just be a corroded connection. Try removing the relay, then reconnecting after inspecting the wiring terminals.

minnisp · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:00 am

there's -> P0048-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID SHORT CIRCUIT
there's -> P1684-BATTERY WAS DISCONNECTED
This DTC is set whenever the Transmission Control Module is disconnected from battery power (Fused B+) and/or ground

minnisp · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:15 am

"Nothing to do with a turbo, seems the dealer wants some warranty dollars from Chrysler"

I brought it to them and reported the CEL was on, and hearing a driveline "whine" at 60mph+.

Honestly, i thought the whine was differential or transcase... guessing.
I drove it for a while and felt the ujoints and the rear end. The area right where the shaft enters the differential was hot (bearing?), the trans case was hot.
ujoints were cold.
"whine" stops when i let off the throttle, picks up when apply throttle (doesn't seem like bearing).

This mechanic said they were searching nationally for a turbocharger. no luck.

They told me not to drive it as is. They are going to see about getting me a rental until the part comes in.

I'll follow your instructions and check the relay.

P

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

minnisp wrote:

there's -> P0048-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID SHORT CIRCUIT
there's -> P1684-BATTERY WAS DISCONNECTED
This DTC is set whenever the Transmission Control Module is disconnected from battery power (Fused B+) and/or ground

Are these codes also stored in your ECM?

The P0048 will affect how the turbo functions as it signals a short to battery on the turbo EVM (electronic vacuum modulator). This part is located behind the air box, it has a blue rubber isolator for mounting and a vacuum line running directly to the top of the turbo. A short to battery could cause full vacuum to the turbo all the time, which would keep the vanes closed and lead to overboosting and whining like you hear. At and idle you can remove the vacuum line to turbo and watch the control arm underneath the actuator. It should drop about 1/2 inch and then rise back up when you plug the vacuum line back in. Also if you watch it when someone else revs the engine in park, the arm should drop down in the higher rpm ranges. If it is always staying closed you need a new EVM or check for bad wiring to EVM. Good luck

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:01 pm

minnisp,

The rear diff on these KJs have a known weakness with the pinion bearing. When that bearing got noisy on my wife's CRD when she was recently visiting Nashville, the local dealer had it in stock (obvious indication of a chronic problem). The noise was continuous compared to when it was new, but increased when throttle was applied, just like your situation. On teardown, the dealer determined everything but the clutchpack needed to be replaced (i.e. R & P, all bearings, etc.). Unfortunately, they did not assemble it properly and 3K miles later it was noisy again and our local dealer had to replace everything all over again (inadequate pinion depth). It is making no noise now so I am hoping the second repair will last.

If you are only the second owner and have successfully transferred the 7/70 warranty that most, but not all '05s came with, you are very fortunate and hopefully can take advantage of it. Believe or not, it is possible, even at your vehicle age and mileage to go through a web based company and purchase an actual MOPAR MaxCare 7/100 plan.

KJ CRD tech training was mnimal, but if you can find a dealer tech who has worked a lot on Sprinters, you will probably make out better.

DOC

minnisp · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:36 pm

hi GDE,

sorry no, p0048, and p1684 do not show on my ECM. These were the closest DTCs that i could find in my resources (alldatadiy) and i just blabbered that out in my post.

My actron scanner shows a p1648 code which is not listed in alldatadiy's list of codes. That's the one you mentioned (and others on this site) is a glow relay.

I have not had a chance to check that for corrosion but i will.

Many thanks!

pierre

minnisp · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:40 pm

Hi Doc,

I'm not that familiar with driveline mechanics but what you say makes sense. That's right where the diff was HOT when i did that test run.

"Believe or not, it is possible, even at your vehicle age and mileage to go through a web based company and purchase an actual MOPAR MaxCare 7/100 plan."

This is interesting. I will search for that maxcare link. You remember where it is by any chance?

Thanks for the tip!

Pierre

minnisp · **Posted:** Thu Jun 30, 2011 7:58 pm

so here's what's going on with this .... i cancelled the service ticket with mcmullen motors. Judging from comments here it sounded like a crock-of-sh*t diagnosis on their part.
today i brought the jeep to a local dealer, ray brandt chrysler jeep. They do sprinter repair at this dealer.
Here's their diagnosis:
1. failed glow plug relay (possible warranty coverage and possible TSB for metallic GP)
2. failed EGR valve (replacement recommended, no warranty $1000.00 )
3. fowled throttle actuator (i think this is what he said needed cleaning included in the $1k for EGR valve replacement)
4. pinion gear replacement (warranty)

The service writer (Don) seemed amenable to helping with glow plug TSB labor since the intake system will be already open.

Will follow up tomorrow.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 30, 2011 9:17 pm

You never responded to my question about whether you have successfully transferred the 7/70 warranty to you, but I can't see how the dealer would be offering to fix the diff under warranty without it. I would push on the EGR valve being part of the powertrain. If you get nowhere, first call other dealers about covering the EGR under the 7/70. If no luck there, try the regional rep.

If all else fails, try a GDE ECU. Several people have had their EGR CELS "fixed" this way.

DOC

changingtime · **Posted:** Thu Jun 30, 2011 10:57 pm

EGR probably just needs to be cleaned...There is a process for cleaning out the EGR Valve, the body it attaches to and the elbow. VM Motori sent out a write up to the dealers and what to use. They use combustion cleaner to clean the EGR Valve (supposedly, usually can be cleaned) and the egr body, and elbow pipe.

minnisp · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:46 pm

hi yes i transferred the warranty sorry i missed that question. He told me that EGR was covered under the emissions warranty, which sounded plausible so i didn't question it.

I have the warranty books i'll check that and see if i have any grounds there.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:57 pm

GREAT! Your EGR should be replaced under warranty, if needed.

NEXT: Check for any sign of rear main seal leakage. I got a free install of a "Euro" TC (that I bought) when the dealer did a warranty repair of the rear main seal. (Avoid future EGR problems with GDE ECU and rear main seal leakage with EHM/Provent, etc.)

DOC

minnisp · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 3:25 pm

yes i've been reading up on the GDE eco and other options. My 2003 golf tdi had a Rocketchip mod and VRRRRRRRRRRRRRROOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM!

diesels are a blast!

minnisp · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:47 pm

i read the warranty manual. EGR is specifically listed in the emissions warranty which is expired. Glow plugs and glow plug relay are explicitly listed under emissions too.

Bah!

minnisp · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 5:08 pm

will check the rear seal that's a great idea!

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 7:43 pm

Since they will not cover the EGR, tell them to pack sand. Get a GDE Tune or SEGR module and it is fixed forever!
Have them fix whatever else is under warranty and save the bucks. (The GDE tune or SEGR is far cheaper and it's fixed permanently. You save $500 - $750).

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2011 7:57 pm

I thought emissions related stuff had to be covered much more than 55K by federal law.

DOC

"New" 2005 Jeep Liberty Diesel Turbo CEL

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