Hi, I am new to the site. Not sure if I am posting to the correct location but I have a 2006 CRD and it died on the road this summer and blew a slew of engine codes. I sent the PCM in to a repair place and they said that it was unrepairable with the P0600 or P0610 Codes. My question is twofold:
1. The part number of my module is 56044776AD. I know that there are several part numbers for a 2006 PCM. What are the differences? Moparonline has the new replacement for $585 but it lists the 56044776AB Part Number. Will this work? What is the difference between the AD and AB part numbers? Just software updates or real diffs?

2. Does anyone know where these can be purchased used? I have searched the net and these seem to be made of inobtainium for less than $600.


Any help is greatly appreciated. I love my CRD and don't want it to have to take it to the scrapper.

Thanks

I used to have the P0610 always set and always triggering a CEL. You can delete it yourself with the $15 MPPS cable and a little time on your computer.

The P0610 can get wiped by a dealer if the ECU is reloaded from boot mode with the firmware, not likely to happen.

You can use any 2006 ECU in a 2006, and any 2005 ECU in a 2005. You cannot switch between years without having CEL issues because of the difference between the 3 sensor 2005 ABS, and the 4 sensor 2006 ABS/Traction control.

Any replacement ECU you get will need to be programmed to your vehicle PIN code, VIN, and injector codes.

I made a video on how to replace the ECU, you will find it helpful, but without all the same equipment you will not be able to program yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLIqALEaN4I&t=17s

If your ECU is really trash then a used one is your best bet. If your ECU is not trash then the P0610 can be deleted very easily for someone with $15 and a couple of hours of time to learn.

I'd recommend checking car-part.com for ECUs, the cheapest used 776 ECU I see is $115.
http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi? ... ge=1&iKey=


If you do want to get a used ECU programming by me I can do it like I did the above for a customer in the video. If the ECU is good it should still start the vehicle for 3 seconds and then shutoff with the key mismatch.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

I have seen your video before a month or so ago when this problem started. Glad to know I could get it programmed externally. What do you charge for this? I would have to somehow get the skim out of the car too right? And figure out the pin from the dealer. Also, what to do with the injector values if my old PCM is not readable?

Where do I go to get one of these cables and the software you mentioned? Perhaps I can clear the code and the PCM will work??

Will this one work?
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Fla ... mpps+cable

I charge $85 return shipped. Yes I need the PIN, dealer can give it to the owner for free with proof of ownership.

P0610 will not keep the vehicle from running, it just sets a check engine light, nothing else.

injector codes are printed on the top of the injectors, and also in a string of codes with a barcode on the timing belt cover.

SKIM is easy to remove, I will need keys to go with SKIM.

I believe that is the same cable as what I have, I think there are some newer versions out there these days.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Sir Sam knows his stuff all right but I wonder if your ECU is actually toast....they are pretty robust and many other problems could be at issue here.....Dealers always want to replace it!

The last two Alpha Characters are just the Engineering level of the ECM.

The 2006 LHD CRD has a known problem where the wire harness going behind the Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket gets damaged in that area ie. the wires can by shorted to chassis or shorted to one another.

So it is worth removing this mounting bracket and inspecting the wire harness in that area for any damage....could save you all the hassle of programing all the PIN, injector and SKIM data into the new module!

Maybe if you find harness damage then your ECM may work OK but there is always a possibility that shorted wires in the harness could indeed blow the ECM.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Correct, AA means first released Revision, AB would be the second released revision, AC the third........some parts are even up to BA, BB, BC etc, haven't seen anything higher than the Bx revision level though.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Good advice. I will check this out. Maybe I could send my PCM to Sam and he could try it in his car to see if it runs for 3 seconds? That would tell me that it is good. I don't know anyone around here that has one of these. Of course if it is bad, I would hate to damage someone's car by plugging it in.

Lets backup.

What happened? What is happening now?

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

I haven't had a chance to check out the wiring harness yet. When the Jeep died, it just left me stranded on the highway. Had to get towed. It blew many engine codes that did seem related to each other. Two of them were P0600 and P0610, There were others that indicated injector voltage on a couple of injectors and some others, I assumed with so many issues, that it was the PCM. I have not had it diagnosed by a dealer. I sent the PCM with the list of engine codes to a PCM repair company in St. Louis. I immediately got it back stating that it was unrepairable due to P0600 and P0610. I am not sure that they even cracked it open though because they only charged me $15 bucks to send it back. Right now, it has codes P1267 P1265 P1263 and P1261 all for Glow plug Control Circuit low and it has a Camshaft pos sensor P0340 and a P0610. Could the Cam shaft POS sensor cause a glow plug control circuit low?

So I got a replacement PCM for the car today. I know that it will need reprogrammed but it should start for 3 seconds. It still doesn't start. It is no longer giving me the P0610 engine code but it still gives me the P1231,P1263,P1265 and P1267 - Circuit low on all glow plugs. The car cranks and fires once in a while but other than that - no dice. Could it be the glow plug controller relay?
Any help is appreciated.

Have you checked the wire harness behind the Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket for damage as I suggested?

How cold is it there where you are at the moment? Unless it is freezing the Jeep should fire and run rough with smoke without glow plugs working!

I would replace the Cam sensor and you need to check the wiring and the connectors on the glow plug controller.

You sure you do not have air in the fuel and that the fuel filter is not blocked?....some fuel related problems do not post codes.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Thanks. I have not checked that wiring harness yet. I will do that this morning. I unplugged the glowplug controller last night and it looks to be in good condition but I have no way of testing it. Wires on it are fine. I can replace the CAM sensor. Hadn't gotten that code since I put in the new computer to try but it does seem like that could be an issue the way it is running. It's 46 today and yesterday and shouldn't have troubles starting. I did prime the fuel system in the engine compartment. It had a little air in it but same symptoms after priming. I replaced the filter a couple years ago. How often do they need changed? Is there a rule of thumb? Will check out the harness first.

Wires behind the fuel filter are fine. They look protected in a plastic holder and the wire loom coming out the end of the holder look good and wrapped. I ordered the cam position sensor today should be here tomorrow afternoon. Not sure about the glow plugs. Very difficult to see anything with the harness. I crawled under the car and the harness for the glow plugs seem to come from underneath. They harness looks OK from what I can see and feel. I hope it's the Camshaft sensor. Im running out of options.

What are your outside temps right now? The glow plugs are not needed untill about 40-45F or below. Might be worth trying a little bit of ether in the intake and see if it fires off.

Can you plug in the block heater? Getting the block warm would help it start if its glow plug related.

That being said, when the problem happened initially you said it died on the highway, which would rule out glow plugs.

So I think its safe to say its not the ECU.

It's likely not the glow plugs, but running the block heater awhile and depending on outside temps we may be able to eliminate the glow plugs as an issue. Some ether might also give us more information.

• Do you have a multimeter?

If so we can do some electrical checks and see if sensors are correctly getting power, etc.

• Have you bled the fuel system recently?

When was the last time the filter has been replaced?
You could also crank the engine a while, 15-30 secs, and then crack an injector line open, diesel should seep out if its building pressure.

The cam and crank position sensors may also be suspect.


I'm sort of curious why all of a sudden you would have ALL the glow plugs being an issue, The glow plug controller is mounted next to the battery box and the harness connects up near the dipstick. With a multimeter you could ohm out the injectors and see if they seem OK.

Several different test vectors to run above that are completely different things, but right now its hard to narrow down one thing, best we can do is systematically eliminate some stuff.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Thanks, I am getting very frustrated. Bought a CAM Position sensor. No change... My costs are piling up. I did bleed the fuel system at the filter. Was originally getting some air in it but the filter was not screwed down real good so I tightened it. I have primed it again. No change. I will try to crack the fuel rail. I haven't changed the filter in maybe two years. I can try that next if I am getting no fuel pressure. I will have to locate the crank sensor. Not sure how hard that one is to get at. Would it help to hear it cranking? I can post it on youtube. You can hear it wanting to fire every 3 to 4 cranks but nothing ever sticks. Could indicate fuel pressure. Oh yeah and it's also been unseasonably warm while doing these tests. It has been 59 today and not too much colder yesterday. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Now my stupidity has manifested itself. I was so sure that I had a computer problem that I spent too much time chasing the wrong things. I probably always had those glow plug problems. I would bet that someone changed 7v plugs out for 5v ones at some time and this has always been reported. At any rate, I did what Sam suggested and cracked the fuel rail after cranking and got very little fuel. I ran to Oreilly's and got a new filter and stuck it in there, primed it and tried again, - no dice. So i disconnected both rubber lines from the fuel filter assembly and cranked. No fuel came out anywhere! I am not sure which is the in and which is the out but I unhooked the one nearest the driver side first which I believe is going to the fuel rail, - nothing. I then unplugged the other one nearest the passenger side and the same - nothing. When I primed, I must have been sucking the fuel in, but when running, there wasn't any being fed. I guess I have a bad fuel pump. I have been plagued in the past with bad pumps on diff cars. I should have known. It's in the tank too - great... I noticed that there is a fuel injector pump too. Shouldn't I be getting fuel fed to the fuel filter head regardless of that injector pump or could it be part responsible for sucking the tank dry?

If you loosened the metal fuel line at the rail, cranked the engine, and fuel came out, then the injection pump is getting fuel and pushing it up to the rail.
It doesn’t have to be a large volume.

Are you sure that you have a fuel pump in the tank?
If you or the previous owner didn’t put one in, then you don’t have a pump in the tank.
These CRDs didn’t come from the factory with a pump in the tank.

However it is highly recommended that you install some sort of lift pump, either in-line or in the tank, to assist in pushing fuel up through the filter.

The CRD has a injection pump on the engine that is capable of sucking fuel from the tank. Adding a lift pump helps keep it from sucking in air.

If you disconnected either fuel line from the filter there is no possible way for fuel to get to the engine.
The supply line goes like this: tank -> filter-> injection pump-> injectors

Because you disconnected the fuel lines and cranked the engine, you now have air in the system. You will have to bleed all the air out of the filter.
The injection pump has also sucked in air and will have to be bleed out.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I understand your frustration. The collective here can help. But it will be one step at a time. Based on your comments I do not think the glow plugs are an issue.

These jeeps didn't come with a intake fuel pump, the high pressure injection pump sucks fuel all the way from the tank.

Can you put back in the original ECU, clear codes, and see what codes come back?

Does your code reader allow you to read sensor data such as the fuel rail pressure?

I took a video tonight of my spare engine to give you some more information. I hope it helps. Consider replacing the crank sensor, but if possible do some wiring continuity checks with a multimeter between the sensor plugs and the ECU.

I know its a little long but I think there is some good information to help you learn the CRD engine control, maybe nothing in it is the actual problem you have, but it might help you get a little more background on the engine.
https://youtu.be/AvC0ytEsQ6w

You can download the service manual here:
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

In it you will find wiring diagrams and pinouts, this will tell you which pins you can check for continuity, and also which pins to check at the sensor for power or ground.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Really! No lift pump normally? I'll re-prime it again. Thought I had something. I only had a few drops of fuel come out of the fuel rail and there didn't seem to be any big pressure release. I completely unscrewed the connector and there was no dump of fuel. I guess I will rent a pressure tester. Is there more to priming the fuel system than just the filter head? Do you have to Prime the injection pump? Could be air in the line between the filter and the injection pump.
Thanks

Wow! Fantastic Video. You've given me a lot of things to try. I will check that fuel is coming from the injection pump and test for fuel pressure first (After priming again). I have replaced the cam position sensor so it is likely not that. I will have to find the pins for the crank sensor if the fuel is not an issue.
Its going to be colder for the next several days so I hope that the glow plugs are working! Oh and BTW, my OBD II tester is as cheap and generic as they come. Perhaps I should get a better one or borrow one. Mine only shows DTC codes and that's it. I had tried the original PCM after clearing codes and the glow plug codes came back and the P0610 but that is all.
Thanks for the great info and links!