PML Diff Cover/Deep Tranny Pan

RFCRD · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 9:31 am

RFCRD wrote:

oldnavy wrote:

RFCRD wrote:

Took a ruler to the old cover, looks closer to 2 3/4 inches deep. They also had that sucker glued on there good. Took a lot of prying to break it loose.

How much fluid did it require to fill the differential with new PML cover?

I went through 4 qts for both front & rear diffs. I think the rear took 2 and some change. Read somewhere I needed 5 qts for both, concerned they may be low. Haven't had a chance to go and recheck the levels since driving it.

Should also note had a difficult time keeping the flange clean from oil dribble while mounting the new cover. Ended up spraying with ether to knock the oil off the ring gear and ragging out the casing. Quickly got the cover in place and hoped for the best. No leaks thus far.

marauderer · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 12:08 pm

RFCRD wrote:

Should also note had a difficult time keeping the flange clean from oil dribble while mounting the new cover. Ended up spraying with ether to knock the oil off the ring gear and ragging out the casing. Quickly got the cover in place and hoped for the best. No leaks thus far.

Pretty good idea. I usually mop up the inside with a buch of shop towels. The thing is you gotta make it so theres no fluid across the gasket surface until the rtv is on.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 12:16 pm

I always used dics brake cleaner on my old Jeep, that worked really good. I will have to remember to take a can with me.

marauderer · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 4:09 pm

I am thinking of making my own diff cover and tran pan.

I have to compare costs of materials vice the PML price. I believe that PML is the only manufacturer for the 8.25 Chrysler rear and the 545RFE Trans pan. Does anybody know of another??

oldnavy · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 5:18 pm

I mentioned to him about the idea of making a standard depth pan, so anyone with a CRD and factory skids could run the aluminum pan. He didn't think it would be possible due to it would require a seperate casting from the truck pans, then there wpuld be the problem of a very small market without enough sales to support the unit.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 9:06 pm

Brent of PML sent me this picture of the two covers he sent me today.

Ripster · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 9:59 pm

Its a super unit and so well made with their bolts I don't see how it could leak.
Hopefully someone will see if one will fit with the skids on, great unit.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 10:07 pm

Ripster wrote:

Its a super unit and so well made with their bolts I don't see how it could leak.
Hopefully someone will see if one will fit with the skids on, great unit.

Ripster I'm taking both of these to Martys GTG and will take pictures with both installed on the Liberty, that way we will know for sure which cover is needed. What size were the allen bolts?

Ripster · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 10:16 pm

You would ask, you know my age, how do you expect me to remember that :roll:

I will find out tomorrow and double check, I am installing my gauges tomorrow,
installed the EGT yesterday in the exhaust.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 10:18 pm

Ripster wrote:

You would ask, you know my age, how do you expect me to remember that :roll:

I will find out tomorrow and double check, I am installing my gauges tomorrow,
installed the EGT yesterday in the exhaust.

Hey don't bother it was just a harrasment question anyway. :wink:

Ripster · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 10:25 pm

I will be down there anyway, have to put some pipe sealer on the fill plug threads, slight ooze.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 10:40 pm

Ripster wrote:

I will be down there anyway, have to put some pipe sealer on the fill plug threads, slight ooze.

I may try to do the front differential while I'm there if we have the time. Doing the front laying on the ground and having to remove the skid looks to be a real pain, and a rack would make it lot easier.

Ripster · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 10:58 pm

Front skid comes off easy, just loosen the back ones, take out the front and it slides right out, not a problem.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 12:33 am

oldnavy wrote:

I mentioned to him about the idea of making a standard depth pan, so anyone with a CRD and factory skids could run the aluminum pan. He didn't think it would be possible due to it would require a seperate casting from the truck pans, then there wpuld be the problem of a very small market without enough sales to support the unit.

While the diff cover was fairly easy to solve, I think you'd be talking Mission Impossible IV to adapt their tranny pan with a skid plate. At the rear drivers corner, you've got 2" or less between the gasket surface and the skid plate. The way the tranny is tilted away from vertical to begin with, plus the odd shape of the skid plate at the rear, that'd be a strange looking beast of a pan to get it to fit.

On the tranny, you're going to have to decide which is more important - having the skid plate, or having a deep pan.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 7:14 am

retmil46 wrote:

oldnavy wrote:

I mentioned to him about the idea of making a standard depth pan, so anyone with a CRD and factory skids could run the aluminum pan. He didn't think it would be possible due to it would require a seperate casting from the truck pans, then there wpuld be the problem of a very small market without enough sales to support the unit.

While the diff cover was fairly easy to solve, I think you'd be talking Mission Impossible IV to adapt their tranny pan with a skid plate. At the rear drivers corner, you've got 2" or less between the gasket surface and the skid plate. The way the tranny is tilted away from vertical to begin with, plus the odd shape of the skid plate at the rear, that'd be a strange looking beast of a pan to get it to fit.

On the tranny, you're going to have to decide which is more important - having the skid plate, or having a deep pan.

Thinking that it would be easier and cheaper to modify the skid plate. How about cutting across the skidplate near the back of the trany pan and welding in a clearance offset?

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 4:49 pm

Ripster wrote:

Front skid comes off easy, just loosen the back ones, take out the front and it slides right out, not a problem.

I may do this before I leave for MI and I was wondering do I need a pump for the bottle of gear oil or can I get the bottle up high enough to squirt the stuff in there without any problem?

Ripster · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 6:46 pm

AmsOil makes a pump that screws into the jug and has an extension to pump almost all the oil out of the quart, yes
you will need a pump, it makes it pretty simple.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 7:37 pm

oldnavy wrote:

Ripster wrote:

Front skid comes off easy, just loosen the back ones, take out the front and it slides right out, not a problem.

I may do this before I leave for MI and I was wondering do I need a pump for the bottle of gear oil or can I get the bottle up high enough to squirt the stuff in there without any problem?

When I did the front diff, the 1qt round squeeze bottle is just small enough to force up into a slot between frame pieces. It was a stinker to do this way. I would have much preferred a barrel pump and hose. Filling the transfer case is actually worse, ended up wearing some of that stuff. BTW the transfer case oil was nasty (starting to darken and visible metal deposit swirlies) with just 12,500 miles, definately recommend changing early.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 8:18 pm

RFCRD wrote:

oldnavy wrote:

Ripster wrote:

Front skid comes off easy, just loosen the back ones, take out the front and it slides right out, not a problem.

I may do this before I leave for MI and I was wondering do I need a pump for the bottle of gear oil or can I get the bottle up high enough to squirt the stuff in there without any problem?

When I did the front diff, the 1qt round squeeze bottle is just small enough to force up into a slot between frame pieces. It was a stinker to do this way. I would have much preferred a barrel pump and hose. Filling the transfer case is actually worse, ended up wearing some of that stuff. BTW the transfer case oil was nasty (starting to darken and visible metal deposit swirlies) with just 12,500 miles, definately recommend changing early.

I had a pump that fit the 1 qt bottles and I can't find the the thing, guess I'll see if Autozone does.

I guess I need to look and see what the transfer case takes, if possible I auto tranny fluid then I will use the Mobil 1 tranny fluid. But I would not think ours would be in too bad a shape only been in 4wd maybe 100 miles if that much, but I guess the stuff is always being used anyway for the portion that is spinning.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 10:26 pm

oldnavy wrote:

RFCRD wrote:

oldnavy wrote:

Ripster wrote:

Front skid comes off easy, just loosen the back ones, take out the front and it slides right out, not a problem.

I may do this before I leave for MI and I was wondering do I need a pump for the bottle of gear oil or can I get the bottle up high enough to squirt the stuff in there without any problem?

When I did the front diff, the 1qt round squeeze bottle is just small enough to force up into a slot between frame pieces. It was a stinker to do this way. I would have much preferred a barrel pump and hose. Filling the transfer case is actually worse, ended up wearing some of that stuff. BTW the transfer case oil was nasty (starting to darken and visible metal deposit swirlies) with just 12,500 miles, definately recommend changing early.

I had a pump that fit the 1 qt bottles and I can't find the the thing, guess I'll see if Autozone does.

I guess I need to look and see what the transfer case takes, if possible I auto tranny fluid then I will use the Mobil 1 tranny fluid. But I would not think ours would be in too bad a shape only been in 4wd maybe 100 miles if that much, but I guess the stuff is always being used anyway for the portion that is spinning.

I also ran mine in fulltime 4WD on a lot of wet & snowy roads. T-case takes 2 qts of ATF+4 which is a full synthetic. I found it bottled by Valvoline, got it at Advance (also saw some on the shelf at NAPA). Had to use a flextube funnel to get it in the hole, just plain awkward laying on a creeper. My neck is still stiff and I'm guessing that I'm 2/3 your age. :lol:

PML Diff Cover/Deep Tranny Pan

Who is online