ORM Mod circuit

KJMedic · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:24 pm

doug allen wrote:

Once proof of concept has been validated on this device, I would bet that providing a commercial vendor the info and letting them get the boards built for sale would be a reasonable option. Someone like John Kennedy at Kennedy Diesel or perhaps Greg. I desperately want this item but I too will have to get someone else to build it for me, which I will do. But as has been stated, this work deserves some compensation. Looks like someone could make a couple of bucks off of the work effort and expertise.

Doug Allen

Yea what he said.

skywarn · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:38 pm

i dont think anybody here is complaining about paying... I really dont care how little time or cost it takes to make one of the boards... I'm willing to toss out $100 to someone that would make me one.... I just have no clue how Eletronics works... i use to, but i havent made a potato clock in years...

I dont mean to offend anyone here on the board.. BUT.. can the ones that can read how its done also read "C10H22"? do yall even know what that is? I look at that and see Diesel But at the same time someone else can look at ----->---- and see a DPDT switch... (im guessing here)

some of us fully understand one thing and to others it just doesnt make anysense.

and if anyone can tell my why we need H2O to live but H2O2 will kill us i would be getting a lot mor sleep at night...

dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:46 pm

Call me paranoid, but I still would love to not have to tear apart the factory harness, and I know there are several ways around the problem.... but.... I suppose splicing 3 wires (or was it 4) isn't all that bad to "undo" if necessary. Tim, do you have any photos of the plugs you spliced in? I'd love to see something up close of that part.

Dan

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2007 6:24 pm

Is it based on the same principles as this:

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/61787 ... ption.html

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:04 pm

Stevesmith7, Hey, you’re good! Here is what I figured what was going on. The EGR and AFC always have a minimum signal on them, so we don't want the MAF signal to change just yet. When the CPU calls for EGR and/or AFC for a change to add in the EGR, it expects the MAF voltage to drop. The circuit detects the pulse width of both AFC and EGR signals. The voltage will rise on the comparator inputs as the duty cycle increases on either AFC or EGR (calling for more EGR). As it rises, the comparators start adding in more voltage drop on the MAF output. Each step on one set of comparators subtract something like 14% per step (4 steps additive), and the next set subtract something like 5% per step (4 steps additive). When the CPU gets to the "Target" value of the MAF voltage (whatever that is), the duty cycle changes so it can maintain this value depending on the rpm and throttle. As the CPU starts to chase its tail, the MAF voltage changes also, so it is always trying to correct to get back to the target MAF voltage. Since the MAF voltage changes, the CPU is happy as it thinks the EGR has flow, and is working just fine.
By the way, both EGR and AFC sensors will fire off a P1140 CEL code if the CPU thinks they are not working.

So, long story short, MAF output has to change as EGR is added in. MAF output has to change as AFC closes down (to pull in more EGR), CPU has to think it "See's" both AFC and EGR sensors every 4ms (AFC) and every 8ms (EGR). Open or shorted circuit (MAF, AFC, or EGR) will upset CPU. This circuit does it all including adding AFC back in for shutdown. You can even clear all your CEL codes with this circuit installed. The CPU will be happy with your ORM mod, and you can erase all codes with a scanner.

Ok now I did my part, so to those of you out there that are building these up, pony-up and build a few extras and let’s help out the others here.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not let the circuit ground come in contact with the ground on your metal box! This is a CPU ground and you DO NOT want to add another ground sensing point in the system!

For those of you, who just don't trust electronics, order an extra box-side connector. Now all you have to do is add 3 jumper wires and it puts the whole thing back to stock if you want to switch out the circuit....

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:24 pm

For those of you out there who do not have a clue on how to build this, or how to wire it in, just hang on. I'm sure something is going to bust loose soon here. This is just too good to pass up for someone wanting to make a buck. I just don't have time to build them, or a good way to sell them.

As far as cutting into your existing wire harness on your CRD, I wouldn't be too scared. (Easy for me to say). If you get someone that knows which end of a soldering iron to hold, and they use heat shrink, sleeving, etc. and take their time, it will go good. It can always be taken out. (DO NOT USE BUTT SPLICE CONNECTORS!!!).

Also check the web site. I have added more pictures of how I put in the wire harness for the mod circuit. I plan to mount it on those two bolts, just to the left of the radiator overflow tank, next to the transmission CPU, on the firewall.

NOTE: I forgot to add a 1N4148 diode on pin 13 of LM324 to +12V. Web site was corrected and so was parts list. 1N4002 was a mistake on parts list.

More to come.....
http://picasaweb.google.com/Turbo4tim/Ckt

spencevans · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2007 10:19 pm

So should we start a list of buyers?
If so I'm first.

Now we just need a supplier.

1. Spencevans

techTim · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:43 am

I think I can make that, just have to bone up on symbol convention and get my workbench ship shape, however.......
if there is anyone thinking about making one for the CRD public that does this kind of stuff often, I'm in line too. I'll get on finding the parts a bit later, my local norvac store will have all of them, and I have some buddies in the microprocessor world that might have some ideas for making these come out right the first time. thanks again Tim, you are a boulder among gravel.

1. spencevans
2. techTim

weantright · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:49 am

Tim I ran into time issues last night and was unable to call you. With your blessing I will send this schematic to a local PCB house for a quote on LOW run production. Low run is about 100 or so.

I will be #3!

1. spencevans
2. techTim
3. weantright

Special Agent · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:51 am

Assuming reasonable cost and simple install, count me in.

We should send beers to Turbotim. Lots and lots of beers.

;D

bugnout · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:40 am

I'm in. I'm probably going to build this myself, but I'll pony up for a PCB for version 2.

1. spencevans
2. techTim
3. weantright
4. bugnout

stevesmith7 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:25 am

weantright wrote:

Tim I ran into time issues last night and was unable to call you. With your blessing I will send this schematic to a local PCB house for a quote on LOW run production. Low run is about 100 or so.

Check out www.pcb123.com

They even supply free CAD software.

chadhargis · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:46 am

Count me in:

1. spencevans
2. techTim
3. weantright
4. bugnout
5. chadhargis

dgeist · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 11:07 am

Turbo Tim wrote:

As far as cutting into your existing wire harness on your CRD, I wouldn't be too scared. (Easy for me to say). If you get someone that knows which end of a soldering iron to hold, and they use heat shrink, sleeving, etc. and take their time, it will go good. It can always be taken out. (DO NOT USE BUTT SPLICE CONNECTORS!!!).

Not really scared; I've done my share of analog and digital logic designs and my wife's a EE embedded avionics programmer, so I'm guessing she could check my splices for me...and would insist on doing so :roll:

From what I tell, the "add-on-harness" has 10 leads in it five from each end of your cuts at the splice-point near the driver's-side firewall. The 5 from each end are just twist/butt solders with matching wire guage, I assume (what's that size, BTW 18AWG stranded?).

Since only one pin is being pulled from the TCM harness, wouldn't we have less wiring to pull/manage if the P/N sense was stretched across the firewall instead of pulling everything else over? Heck, you could even mount the box in the passenger compartment to protect it from environmental effects and have a much easier time wiring a "emergency pass-through" switch. That would also preclude the necessity of an extra wire loom in that box (which looks to be tight already...).

Thoughts?
Dan

P.S. I'm in on a buy for the circuit portion of it. I'm in the same spot as spence.... not enough time to prototype things unless it's on a breadboard

P.P.S I'd like to see an optional lead on the system that functions as a "manual bypass to stock", perhaps connected at the same point as the P/N sense with a diode so the TCM doesn't think the shifter is in park when you activate it (do diodes work the same way on a ground....?)

doug allen · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:00 pm

Notch up another one that's in.

Doug

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:02 pm

Oh, I am SoooOOOooo in:

1. spencevans
2. techTim
3. weantright
4. bugnout
5. chadhargis
6. BiodieselJeep

Maybe I should get 2, one for my unlimited CRD that I keep dreaming about? *SIGH*

irunmiles · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:06 pm

I'm in:

7. irunmiles

A question for the group. I've been running the ORM for ~5K miles, and now need to take the rig to the dealer. I have a scan tool to clear the code. What will likely happen when I plug the MAF back in?

doug allen · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:06 pm

One question that probably should be self explanatory based on the proposed technology; once the EGR/MAF/AFC fooler is installed, would there be any benefit in physically blocking the EGR access to the EGR valve. I have done that on another application with the fooler in place (Duramax) and was wondering about this application. It may create a "friendlier" environment for the EGR if we could block any exhaust to the valve itself. FWIW.

Doug

duffman1980 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:59 am **Posts:** 16

count me in as well

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2007 2:25 pm

1. spencevans
2. techTim
3. weantright
4. bugnout
5. chadhargis
6. BiodieselJeep
7. irunmiles
8. doug allen
9. duffman1980
10 ATXKJ

(I'd also like to vote for a manual override switch - i.e. a switch - back to stock for ...On road situations)

ORM Mod circuit

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