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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:36 pm 
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there are a lot of new people popping out of nowhere buying and reviewing this. Any older members get and test theirs yet? :P Not saying new members are a bad thing.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 1:01 am 
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ribbon wrote:
there are a lot of new people popping out of nowhere buying and reviewing this. Any older members get and test theirs yet? Not saying new members are a bad thing.


bugnout wrote:
i shipped it on Wednesday morning USPS next day, delivered to my door today (Friday)
Just re-installed the ECU. plugged MAF back in, and drove about a 2 mile circuit.

First impressions: at least as much power and performance as I had with MAF unplugged. but the engine seems to run a bit smoother too. Can't really say much else. I'll let you know how it goes.

I've got some mileage data from last summer that I'll post to compare with my results over the next couple of weeks.



I think 3 years and 1200+ posts might give bugnout's opinion some weight, eh?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 1:18 am 
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that it does. didn't see that one :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:38 am 
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Is the EGR used to assist with getting the engine up to operating temperature in the winter?

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 Post subject: EGR function in Diesel
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:56 pm 
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chrispitude wrote:
Is the EGR used to assist with getting the engine up to operating temperature in the winter?

- Chris


All the EGR does on a Diesel is reduce the Boogy Man Gas Nitrous Oxide. Nitrous Oxide has been determined to be a problem by Drug Abusers of the 60s who using junk science claim it causes smog (only under ultra perfect conditions). If you are not doing needless driving when they will give you a stiff fine for mowing your lawn and tell you mowing your lawn pollutes more than driving 60 miles, feel no guilt.
The only other function the EGR does on a diesel is slightly lower the diesel noise by reducing the oxygen supply. Kinda like wearing a very tight neck tie when doing intimate exercises.

On gassers the EGR reduces detonation and reduces nitrous oxide.

I really question the use of the EGR as an over boost blow off valve in the Green Diesel Engineering tune. VW used to use blow off valves on their early Turbo Diesels but abandon them with the TDI.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:42 pm 
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Mother Nature is very hard to duplicate. It's those "perfect conditions" that are difficult to simulate. In the end, the process may be difficult duplicate, but if they track NOx, hydrocarbon concentration, and sunlight intensity and then see that smog/ozone levels go up, there's probably a relationship. It's pretty complicated: http://www.shodor.org/master/environmen ... ation.html

Rudolf Diesel didn't separate all of the components of his fuel and determine the precise stoichiometry of each specific hydrocarbon molecule and air needed for the combustion process. His engine ran. People saw that it ran. People empirically saw the power and benefits, decided it apparently worked like he said it would, and we're driving them around today.

Just because the observed result or concept is undesirable or not completely understood, it's not necessarily grounds to declare it "junk science." I don't like EGR valves either, but we have them.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Just finished pulling the ECU out of the wife's CRD. That bottom/front nut is a bear to remove w/ that bundle of wire right in front of it - I hope I can reinstall it without breaking anything.

Will be shipping it off USPS overnight in the morning.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:16 pm 
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I found it easier to remove the two nuts that hold the plate in place, Once you remove them, you can pull the plate out of the slot in the back. Disconnect the wire bundles then remove the 4 nuts that hold the ECU onto the plate.

grywlfbg wrote:
Just finished pulling the ECU out of the wife's CRD. That bottom/front nut is a bear to remove w/ that bundle of wire right in front of it - I hope I can reinstall it without breaking anything.

Will be shipping it off USPS overnight in the morning.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:40 pm 
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Rudolph's engine ran on peanut oil - how far removed is that from McDonalds, Sonic, or KFC?

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 Post subject: Re: EGR function in Diesel
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:02 am 
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warp2diesel wrote:
All the EGR does on a Diesel is reduce the Boogy Man Gas Nitrous Oxide. Nitrous Oxide has been determined to be a problem by Drug Abusers of the 60s who using junk science claim it causes smog (only under ultra perfect conditions). If you are not doing needless driving when they will give you a stiff fine for mowing your lawn and tell you mowing your lawn pollutes more than driving 60 miles, feel no guilt.
The only other function the EGR does on a diesel is slightly lower the diesel noise by reducing the oxygen supply. Kinda like wearing a very tight neck tie when doing intimate exercises.

On gassers the EGR reduces detonation and reduces nitrous oxide.

I really question the use of the EGR as an over boost blow off valve in the Green Diesel Engineering tune. VW used to use blow off valves on their early Turbo Diesels but abandon them with the TDI.


IIRC NOx cause acid rain as well, doesn't it?

I don't get the idea of letting power go away. If there's some pressure to be had, why waste it by putting in endless valves trying to protect a design from tipping over? Make a proper design and don't put unnecessary valves all over the place to protect something which should've been made tough enough to withstand it.

What you end up with is an engine full of bits which keeps it going, what then happens if one of them fails and the driver doesn't notice? New engine in 1000 miles?

There's no replacement for passive reliability ;)

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:47 am 
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bugnout wrote:
I found it easier to remove the two nuts that hold the plate in place, Once you remove them, you can pull the plate out of the slot in the back. Disconnect the wire bundles then remove the 4 nuts that hold the ECU onto the plate.

grywlfbg wrote:
Just finished pulling the ECU out of the wife's CRD. That bottom/front nut is a bear to remove w/ that bundle of wire right in front of it - I hope I can reinstall it without breaking anything.

Will be shipping it off USPS overnight in the morning.


Mine was a bear too. Being that it was 90 degrees in the shade of my garage didn't assist my composure, either. I ended up pulling the retaining clip around the bundle that fits into the top of the wheel well out, pulling the bundle up, and fitting the socket to the nut underneath. You can't use a normal socket extension; it is too long and there is a Bosch plug right there behind the battery in the way. I used my 1/4 inch drive ratchet, a 1/4 inch socket, screw-drive 1/4 adapter, and 8mm socket. It fit just right and came off easily after that, with a little muscle to get the ECU off the bracket itself after removing the nuts. Unfortunately, by the time I got it off, all the post offices were closed and FedEx and UPS don't ship to P.O. boxes. I hope I didn't damage anything; I guess I will find out Wednesday night. Nothing snapped or popped or tore while I was working though, so I take that as a good sign.

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245/70/16 Destination A/T's
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Last edited by linewarbr on Mon Jun 22, 2009 2:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:35 am 
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bhysjulien wrote:
Anyway you can tell if the egr has been completely shut off?


My MAP sensor doesn't coke any more. It's just wet & oily.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 1:42 pm 
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danoid wrote:
bhysjulien wrote:
Anyway you can tell if the egr has been completely shut off?


My MAP sensor doesn't coke any more. It's just wet & oily.


Thanks for the reply. I'm in the process of deciding between InMotion and Green Diesel. Anyone driven both?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:44 pm 
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So if the ol' emissions guy plugs into the OBDII port, does he see the EGR as off? Or as 'ok'?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:24 pm 
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I used a 1/4" socket with a wobbly extension, and it was still a PITA.

- Chris

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:31 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
I found it easier to remove the two nuts that hold the plate in place, Once you remove them, you can pull the plate out of the slot in the back. Disconnect the wire bundles then remove the 4 nuts that hold the ECU onto the plate.

Pull the whole bracket out... Yeah that looks like it would be easier. I'll try that when I reinstall. Thanks!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:39 pm 
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I had my ECU reflashed by Green Diesel Engineering, and the first take mileage results are looking good. I filled the tank after installing the reflashed ECU, and then drove 228 miles and refilled it. The fuel used was 8.63 gallons, so the mileage was about 26.4 mpg. About 80% of the mileage was 2 lane roads at 60-65 mph, the balance was city driving. Based on my previous experience, I would get about about 23 to 24 mpg, so the ECU/Green Diesel reflash improved the mileage in the first test by around 3 mpg. I'll post some more comprehensive numbers in the next week or so. I should add the day I did this driving, the temperature was around 94 deg, and the air conditioning was used non stop.

Other comments. The service from Green Diesel was excellent, the ECU came back before I expected it. The vehicle feels a little more peppy, but other than this, it is about the same. I reattached the MAF sensor and had the check engine light off for the first time in 30,000 miles.

As others have commented, getting the ECU out and back can be a challenge. I got it out with some difficulty, to put it back in, I removed the battery. This lets you push around around the big electrical cables that run in front of the ECU so you can get the ECU back in without too much trouble. I'd strongly recommend removing the battery before removing or replacing the ECU, doing so will save banged fingers and nuts being dropped in odd places.

The jeep is a 2005 CRD. It has F37, a Kennedy lift pump, a Provent, and a 2002 airbox.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:08 pm 
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I filled up Saturday night and my trip computer read 605 miles to empty :twisted:

I'm pretty sure it's lying by about 10% (even before the GDE flash) but it's still nice to see.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:48 pm 
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I just recieved my ECU back from these guys, great service, I'm in the west coast and it only took a couple of days. First, installing the ecu is much easier than removal. I did notice more diesely sound, I like it and it does seem peppier. I will be taking a long trip to Utah on Friday, over the donner summit and through the passes of Nevada. This will be a good test, I'll be pulling a trailer with approximately 2500 lbs. I just changed my trans, trasfer case fluids, hopefully the trip is a success.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:38 pm 
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I don't want to be an booty, but, comparisons between green diesel's product, and stock, are USELESS.

Comparisons between green diesel and in motion, on the other hand, are desirable.

As a consumer, your choice is not between nothing and green diesel, it's between green diesel, and inmotion.

I think we all already know that the fooler boxes are not so great for the money.

I love that this new product is out, but as a inmotion user, unless it's significantly different/better, then my money goes to the first company that reprograms the tcm.

It seems like the greendiesel tune has better economy, than the in motion stage II, i wonder where it stands vs stage I?

If i did not read things like "maintain stock noise level" i would possably consider it, i want power and economy, i don't care that it does not sound like a td.

Also changing gears where the tc would normaly slip? What if you get tcm programming? would the ecm still make the gear change? Seems like a bad investment?

I'm concerned. Without real data, how can a user select the proper unit for them?

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