We'll find out this afternoon if it cures the leak or not.

As far as the bleed screw, it's M10 X 1.25 thread. All the generic bleed screws they had at Autozoo were M10 X 1.50, so no luck there.

On a side note, guess I'm getting spoiled driving diesel. Took my mother's '92 Mustang 5.0 convertible up to the parts store, just because it had been so long since it's been driven. Caught myself thinking "Man this thing is gutless at low power" because my foot is calibrated for diesel now, and had to keep forcing myself to push down farther on the go pedal to get it up to speed.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

No leaks, no drips, no runs, no errors - happy camper.

Now running with a New Holland primary filter on the factory filter head, and a Cat 2 micron secondary on the Permacool head. Guess I'm going to have to change my signature now.

On the outlet port of the Cat filter head, I added a 1/4" pipe tee with a brass radiator drain valve, to be able to vent off the Cat filter as well. Found out by experimentation that you still need to vent off the factory filter head to get rid of all the air in it, then vent off the Cat filter.

Also found out that any dribbles you get around the threads of the bleed screw when venting will run down the side of the filter head, and run toward the back along the flat gasket, can make it look as though the flat gasket itself is leaking.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Pics please?

_________________
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

I had some time to vacuum test the housing today. It held a 6" vacuum for ten minutes with no air bubbles. After messing with it, I washed everything down and dried it so I will see in the morning if fuel is weeping. I'm still getting air in the system but less than before. Either I fixed it and just getting the last bit of air out or the leak is somewhere else.

I used 3/8 ID fuel hose with a plug for the inlet side and about 2 ft of 3/8 clear hose with a barbed fitting for the outlet side. I used clear hose so I could see any air bubbles. For a vacuum source, my hand vacuum pump worked like a champ.

Sorry no pictures. again fuel everywhere so no camera.

_________________
2006 Liberty CRD-SOLD
Dynomax 2.5 exhaust

Hey Mitchell,

How's the fix working out; any air?

Thanks for the research, by the way.

_________________
2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout

So far, no fuel leaks, everything is still nice and dry. Have driven it roughly 150 miles so far this week.

As far as air accumulation and potential air leaks elsewhere, I'm going to finish commuting to work with it for the rest of the week, putting at least 230 miles and at least 4 more startup/shutdown cycles on it. Then I'm going to check the filter for air accumulation.

Next step is to try liquid electricians tape (plastisol) on the quick connects just forward of the tank, the hose connections at the filters, and possibly over the gasket between the two sections of the filter head. That's depending on how much air I find in the filters.

That's what literally sucks about this setup - with the level of vacuum the fuel pump is capable of pulling (upwards of 20"), it would still only take a pinhole leak (not enough to let fuel out, but enough to let air in) to get a slow buildup of air in the filter head. Using rubber hoses that can age, harden, and loosen under the hose clamps only makes it that much more of a crapshoot.

And the only way to check for air is to pressurize the filter with the priming pump and cycle the bleed screw. And that bleed screw doesn't look to be made for repeated use, nothing more than a standard brake bleed screw. I improved the sealing on mine by lightly buffing the sealing surface on it with some emery cloth. I'd be happier if I could find a way to rig up an actual vent VALVE in place of that screw.

IMO, air buildup in the filter head is why we're ending up with fuel heaters leaking and in one case failing to the point the vehicle was inoperable and by accounts nearly started a fire.

The way the filter head, and the Mopar filter itself, is designed, you can easily accumulate enough air in the filter head and filter TO COMPLETELY UNCOVER THE FUEL TEMP SENSOR AND HEATER. Without a surrounding bath of liquid fuel to carry away the heat, that heat gets transferred to the plastic housing surrounding the heater. To expound on what Blake said, plastic + heat + no cooling medium = bad things happen.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

I never gave this fuel air leak problem a second thought until I had a problem myself. I agree that the fried fuel heater is caused by air surrounding the element causing a lack of submersed fuel. Since this problem, I've been checking out the air that accumulates, which is constant, and I also agree that the bleeder is too frail to continue bleeding the air, which could be at every initial start, a vent valve or equivalent is a definite must!

This replacement fuel head, that I just got under warranty, is the same POS that was there before it and it will leak at the heating element again so I have to fix this. I just threw out my old fuel filter so I'll have to go search for a gasket. I Think I'll try Old Navy's suggestion.

_________________
2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout

I was just going to plumb in a inverted gutted out air filter with a clear bowl and drain valve so that I could easily see and clear out any air that accumulated. But now I see that wont fix the problem of an uncovered heater.

How about this?

Take out the bleeder screw and thread in a fitting to add a clear bowl with a drain valve in its location. This way you will have a visual indication of when you need to bleed the air out of the system well before your heater is uncovered.

I am not even going to try to eliminate leaky connections throughout the system...so if I can just glance under the hood pump the primer a few times turn a valve and be done with it for a tankful I would be happy. What was the thread size on that bleeder again?

_________________
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

We need an air trap thingy like they use on homemade beer buckets. It lets the CO2 burp out.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

I don't have access to my service manual right now, but I think there is a fitting you can get for diagnostics that will screw in in place of the bleeder. It might let you adapt to pipe thread or a hydraulic type fitting. I've thought about putting in a little self priming pump on this port and either teeing into the return or running a separate return. I don't think you have to have a leak in order to accumulate air in the filter head. I've read and am starting to believe that normal aeration of the fuel can cause an air build up in a system like this.

_________________
Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

If you don't have any luck with McMaster-Carr or an industrial supply house, last resort is to go by OReillys and pick up a Wix filter P/N 33528 for $15.

It's the Wix equivalent to the Cat 2 micron (although Wix uses a paper element) and I picked one up to do a physical check against the Permacool mounting head, to make sure the Cat filter would work with it.

When I tumbled onto using the gasket off the old Mopar filter, I checked the gasket on the 33528 filter and others I'd picked up against the Mopar gasket to see if any of them were close and could be substituted for the Mopar filter gasket if need be.

The gasket on the Wix 33528 filter is a perfect match to the one on the Mopar filter.

But I'd definitely try Walt's suggestion first. One or two bucks for just the gasket is preferably to $15 and tossing an entire filter just to get the gasket.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Metric, M10 X 1.25

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Dang, you're right, I'd forgotten about that! There is an adapter and test gauge they screw in, in place of the bleed screw, for testing purposes. Allows them to test the priming pump, for a clogged fuel filter, and for a bad fuel pump.

Might be able to find something similar at Advance or Autozone, the Actron test equipment they sell.

I agree with the possibility of entrained air coming out of solution, with the fuel system being under vacuum, and that filter head making a nice low flow air trap. But to get an idea of how much air we're getting from this and how fast it accumulates, we need to eliminate other potential sources first (ie, filter head gasket, hose connections, quick connects, bad bleed screw). Could be with outside sources eliminated, buildup from aeration might be slow enough you'd only need to vent the filter every tank, once a month, etc.

My initial gut reaction was to take some epoxy and PERMANENTLY seal that blasted bleed screw, then drill and tap the top of the filter head for 1/8" pipe and put my own vent valve in. But now that I've calmed down somewhat, it would be nice to still have that bleed screw port available.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Now that am am sure all air was bled out after filter change, I have been on this air infiltration. For my application, after a tank, there is sufficient air to need to prime, bleed, 3 times to evacuate all air. That isn't much. By guessing, it might be 1 cubic inch of air if it could be measured that way. Still runs strond with the air in it, although I am concerned about too much air and an overheater heater scenario. For now, looks like 1 or 2 bleeding a month will keep up with it. Take less than a minute to do. Bout like checking oil level.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

Checked with the dealer, as far as ordering the test adapter that screws into the bleed screw fitting. No joy, flat out said they would not order special tools out of the FSM.

May have found a temp fix for a leaky bleed screw. A 1/8" thick o-ring has enough squeeze to seal between the wrench flats on the screw and the filter housing, to keep any fuel and air from leaking past the threads. As far as the bleed port, a short piece of 1/4" fuel line clamped over the nipple, and a suitable plug in the other end should work.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

It is supposed to be warm tomorrow so I'm going to work on testing from the inlet back to the tank. I have a feeling that the quick connect fitting after the tank may be leaking.

The plan is to put a clear hose in-line and see if any air bubbles come through while running. I will also check if the line leaks down after shut down. I know the filter housing has a check valve that holds well.

M10x1.25 bolts are available from the hardware store. I may have to get a short one and drill it for a fitting. An o-ring or copper washer should seal it for a test session.

_________________
2006 Liberty CRD-SOLD
Dynomax 2.5 exhaust

The company that supplies them to DC is SPX Miller.

Try this link

http://www.spxmiller.com/

_________________
Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Dug thru the tool box and found my metric tap and die set. In luck, it had both 1/8 NPT and M10 X 1.25 taps and dies.

I tried experimenting with some 1/8 NPT fittings I had available, first wanting to try making a adapter from the metric thread over to NPT, to minimize mods to the filter head and be able to put the bleed screw back in in case this beast ever has to go back to the dealer.

Luckily, there's enough difference between 1/8 NPT and M10 that there was enough extra "meat" there to produce a good set of M10 X 1.25 threads. I now have a homemade adapter that goes from M10 X 1.25 male to 1/8 NPT female, with a nice flat land on the metric end for squeezing an o-ring.

Conversely, there's enough difference that if you want to go the opposite direction and rethread the bleed port for 1/8 NPT, you shouldn't have any problems, other than possibly modifying the tap by cutting some off the end to keep it from bottoming out in the bleed port.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

anybody here know about this little unit?

http://www.ramcoperformance.com/turbofyner.htm

when I was researching my CRD I spoke with an editor at four wheel and off-road who was selling his, he had some praise for the unit.
My thought is that the stock sensor, and heater could be incorporated into the cnc milled head unit and adapted to the primer pump?
any thoughts?

The warrantied fuel filter head is leaking at the seam; looks like I got to do the gasket. How's yours doing Mitchell?

_________________
2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout