bypass oil filter?

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:40 pm

Cowpie1 wrote:

<snip>
Just use a quality filter, a good CJ-4 rated oil, and follow recommended OCI's. Follow sound maintenance practices. You will be fine. Chances are, there are many other things that will go wrong before anything major that is oil related. And even without bypass filtration, if driven properly and maintained properly, the CRD engine, in most cases, will outlast the vehicle itself for most folks. But then, there are always folks just looking for the next project to do to a vehicle. I don't have quite the time or inclination for that as some folks do.

I am sure that all the folks who have done exactly what you recommend and have experienced severe rocker wear, some resulting in rocker failure and multi-thousand dollar engine repair bills will be comforted to know this. While I respect your experience, a four cylinder light truck diesel has very little in common with a heavy OTR tractor engine apart from the basic principle of operation. There are far too many reports here of rocker failure with NO EVIDENCE OF BELT DAMAGE, as well as many reports of severe rocker wear, for me to cavalierly dismiss them as the result of bad maintenance.

In my own case, I would have been perfectly willing to blame the severe rocker wear I found in my CRD on bad maintenance and carelessness by the PO.....except for the fact that there was no noticeable wear on the turbo, a component known to be prone to early failure if abused.

Have you checked the rockers on your CRD?

Auberon · **Posted:** Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:53 am

I apolgise for the length of this post but it comes after much consideration.

I agree that a heavy haulage unit is working under as close to optimum as an automotive diesel can. No question pertaining to the longevity of fleets and tractors in honest work and well maintained. This is far from the running world where my little VM motori runs in. She runs in a very hostile cycle and that is why I am considering the following.

Diesel engines (especially automotive ones) create through ammasing condensate a very acidic and sooty environment that is overlooked as they do not get to run at optimum temperature. They rapidly deplete the additives that may be added to your oil depending on the Bse from which it is built. I have more to say on this but this is off topic - slightly. Fact is by-pass filters go a long way towards relieving this multiplicity of issues.

My studies on the current state of oils and choosing a change interval and even an oil are still ongoing and will no doubt change. My FULL FLOW filter will not. I use Pure1 or MANN. I do believe this is not enough.
To explain where I am coming from for those interested.

It is really interesting when you begin to delve into the operating cycle that "WE" as operators deem to be severe / normal and easy. It seems that the industry regards what is in our user manuals as rather out of date now. Just yesterday I found a Fleetguard article (quite credible source) re this subject and it only served to reinforce the conclusions my experiences and studies have drawn. With the adition of by-pass oil filtration studies have consistently presented the following results:
Upper conrod bearing shell...... 30% less wear
Lower conrod bearing shell..........63% less wear
Upper main bearing shell..........49 % less wear
Lower main bearing shell.........64%................................all when compared to 100% wear with Full flow as the baseline engine wear rate. In other words FULL FLOW FILTRATION is considered the benchmark for comparision. In ALL cases of what they term "Real world wear" wear was reduced - in my view quite soignificantly. Tested per SAE 710813 & 790089.

I would also ask those in this Forum to read the absolute wisom of the NORIA site especially in terms of the CHOICE of Oils for an automotive duty cycle which is well misunderstood.

The physical process of where I am at is currently:

I have purchased an Australian made by-pass filter. I am pondering the juggling of things under bonnet (hood) as this is written and through just about every available waking moment. If I succeed I will get a real kick out of it. :juggle:

So far I am fairly certain the following will happen:
1 oil return via a swivel unit in the oil filler cap.
2 oil take-off via a sandwich plate at the full-flow filter (from the by-pass filter supplier). I did consider the oil pressure take-off but dismissed this on this particular engine.
3 I will use the high quality hoses and AN fittings the chap I purchased the filter from sells.
4 I am exploring the idea of moving the battery both lower and forwards to afford the space for the unit (our arrangement under hood is different to yours) as our brake M cylinder is on the RHS of the vehicle but the ABS is still on the LHS. The engine bay fuse box can be moved forwards and down quite a long way. I think this will still allow ready access with the aid of a) modifying the front hinge of the fuse box so that it has a pull-out pin with an appropriately sized knurled head with a flat and a small clevis pin.

I am also hoping to somewhat ambitiously create the space for a pre-filter (fuel) of some 30 microns to go in-line before the 2 micron fuel filter I am changing to.
AND
Stiffening the air box perimeter. I have done a very loose pre-test looking for seal by-pass and it does happen. I will do a more controlled trial of this test. I do not want unfiltered air entering my engine even though the paper filter does reduce flow - I do not have a racing engine.
5 The best location (but not the easiest) is the engine bay for ready access. I am not enamoured with the idea of mounting either fuel or engine filters under vehicle near the transfer case.
As part of the problems with this shuffling I recognise that the rear method of securing the engine bay fuse box lid also needs addressing. To facilitate moving this fuse box forwards and lower (as does the battery to allow clearance between battery terminals and the hood (unless I turn it on its side but that restricts me to Optima or at least AGM type batteries).
This should also allow the addition of a marine grade fuse box (10 micro blade fuses) to be slotted in a fashion similar to the slotting in of memory/computer circuit panels - allowing the addition of a loom that will cater for up to 10 accessories.

Need time to have her off the road for time to fiddle and I NEED this to be WORKABLE.
Unfortunately the ABS unit it on this side but I think low enough to be out of the way.

Cheers.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:50 am

I think bypass filtration is one of several worthwhile approaches that can be taken to reduce the impact of soot on this motor. Centrifugation is another. Measures which reduce soot entrainment into the lube oil are worthwhile as well.

bypass oil filter?

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