Frankenfever

spencevans · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 2:29 am

rs4mtnitro wrote:

Does anyone have the new lift installed yet?

I installed it last week. Sorry it has taken me so long but I was doing finals for my college students and then it was my daughters birthday, and then brown santa delivered these bumpers so I have not sat for one minute the last two weeks. Here are some pics to hold you over. It has the CRD Frankenlift, TJM front bumper, and Rock Lizard rear bumper. I painted them Caterpillar yellow. I know that it does not match but I have not had time to paint the fenders yet. Tell me what you think.

Before

After

Linky fixed

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

Looking great!

rs4mtnitro · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2007 8:01 pm

spencevans wrote:

rs4mtnitro wrote:

Does anyone have the new lift installed yet?

I installed it last week. Sorry it has taken me so long but I was doing finals for my college students and then it was my daughters birthday, and then brown santa delivered these bumpers so I have not sat for one minute the last two weeks. Here are some pics to hold you over. It has the CRD Frankenlift, TJM front bumper, and Rock Lizard rear bumper. I painted them Caterpillar yellow. I know that it does not match but I have not had time to paint the fenders yet. Tell me what you think.

Do you have a parts list and any pics of the components? Did you measure to find total lift yet?

It looks good just not sure of the color yet. Make sure to post pics after the rest is painted.

Thanks

Mike

AndySRT · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2007 8:19 pm

now i can't wait for mine. walking by the MT/R's in my garage everyday is killing me :lol:

spencevans · **Posted:** Thu May 10, 2007 9:44 pm

rs4mtnitro wrote:

spencevans wrote:

rs4mtnitro wrote:

Does anyone have the new lift installed yet?

I installed it last week. Sorry it has taken me so long but I was doing finals for my college students and then it was my daughters birthday, and then brown santa delivered these bumpers so I have not sat for one minute the last two weeks. Here are some pics to hold you over. It has the CRD Frankenlift, TJM front bumper, and Rock Lizard rear bumper. I painted them Caterpillar yellow. I know that it does not match but I have not had time to paint the fenders yet. Tell me what you think.

Do you have a parts list and any pics of the components? Did you measure to find total lift yet?

It looks good just not sure of the color yet. Make sure to post pics after the rest is painted.

Thanks

Mike

I don't think I took any pics of the components. It is almost identical to the gas Frankenlift II. The lift came with:

2 Rear OME springs
2 Rear OME shocks
2 Rear bumpstops
2 Front strut/spring assemblies which were preassembled.

I took about 8 hours to install the lift. The total lift is hard to tell because the vehicle has been lifted since I purchased it new. I would guess it is 2 1/2" as advertised. I also have two heavy bumpers on the vehicle which pulled it down abit. I will measure it to the pinchweld and see what lift I have.

GilaMonster · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2007 11:58 am

ATXKJ wrote:

Looks like GilaMonster has

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=20382

but no Pictures

Sorry, been under the weather and busy. I've installed the front of the Frankenlift II, and it was seriously hard. I had to unbolt and move around the driver side lower control arm to get the job done, and it was not fun to do alone.
But, I gotta say it was definately worth it. The front end does not bottom-out like it used to with the mushy stock springs/shock. Also, the front end does not have that horrible nose dive when turning and braking. I've done some trail wheeling now with it, and it is great. The only strange thing is that it has a loud sound when you unload one side or both going over dips or rocks. I attribute this to the higher spring rating forcing the unsprung end down with much more force.

I'll try to get some pictures this weekend.

ETA: I ordered the front shock assembled. I replaced a rock krapper kit with this one. I have not measured, but I definately got a 3" lift out of the front, possibly a little more. I now have to level out the rear by about 1", where as before I had 2.5" lift and it was level.

spencevans · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2007 12:55 pm

GILA,

I added an extra set of rear isolators and the front still sits higher than rear. I am considering getteing some more isolators from AllJ's because the RL rear bumper pulled down the rear quite a bit.

GilaMonster · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2007 1:44 pm

spencevans wrote:

GILA,

I added an extra set of rear isolators and the front still sits higher than rear. I am considering getteing some more isolators from AllJ's because the RL rear bumper pulled down the rear quite a bit.

I had read a post that recommended getting the isolators from the dealer, are the ones from All Js different? I think someone, Daystar or Skyjacker, sells a spacer for the bottom of the spring that is maybe 1.5" thick.
From my eyeballin, it looks like I need 3 additional isolators if I go with the factory ones. I have no idea if they move around or can fall out if you are at some serious flex wheelin, but I may just try that. I also need to put some bump-stops on the rear, and might just do the hockey puck method.
In your case, due to the rear bumper weight, you might consider some helper air bags that go inside the coil. Another CRD user has them installed because they trailer with their lifted CRD, and it was pulling the jeep down a bit when hitched up.

Your rig is looking good.

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

Have you guys "broke in" the front yet? Is it supposed to settle a little lower or is that only the gassers?

spencevans · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2007 5:13 pm

GilaMonster wrote:

spencevans wrote:

GILA,

I added an extra set of rear isolators and the front still sits higher than rear. I am considering getteing some more isolators from AllJ's because the RL rear bumper pulled down the rear quite a bit.

I had read a post that recommended getting the isolators from the dealer, are the ones from All Js different? I think someone, Daystar or Skyjacker, sells a spacer for the bottom of the spring that is maybe 1.5" thick.
From my eyeballin, it looks like I need 3 additional isolators if I go with the factory ones. I have no idea if they move around or can fall out if you are at some serious flex wheelin, but I may just try that. I also need to put some bump-stops on the rear, and might just do the hockey puck method.
In your case, due to the rear bumper weight, you might consider some helper air bags that go inside the coil. Another CRD user has them installed because they trailer with their lifted CRD, and it was pulling the jeep down a bit when hitched up.

Your rig is looking good.

The isolators from AllJ's are much different than those from the dealer. The AllJ isolators go on top of the upper OEM isolators. They provide a half inch of lift for each isolator. The air bag thing is a good idea. I'll have to check it out. As far as the spacers go my Frankenlift came with bumpstops for the rear. If you ordered the complete lift then they should be there. If not then I am sure you order them from AllJ's or make your own from some hocky pucks.

spencevans · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2007 5:17 pm

Pablo wrote:

Have you guys "broke in" the front yet? Is it supposed to settle a little lower or is that only the gassers?

No I have not christened the front end yet but the back end will probably experience some settling as well. The back end could go up another inch with out any issues. I plan on giving the front end a 3/4" clevis lift soon.

foosed · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2007 2:27 pm

So does the new kit have spacers or not? In looking at the parts list, I only see rear bumpstops, coils, shocks and struts.

rs4mtnitro · **Posted:** Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:01 am

Here is the new set up. I just installed this last Tuesday. The bottom rubber has a full droop bump stop built in.

I don't like how close the strut is to CV boot. At full droop they do come into contact with each other.

spencevans · **Posted:** Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:40 pm

rs4mtnitro wrote:

I don't like how close the strut is to CV boot. At full droop they do come into contact with each other.

Yeah that's how my front boot got ripped. At full droop my clevis actually contacts the drivers side inner CV BOOT. I called Heather at AllJ's and informed her of the problem. So you are not the only one with this problem and I am not sure that there is and easy fix. The only things I can thing of is grinding the bottom of the clevis, or getting a strap.

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

Mine will touch at full drop. I tore the boot getting in on. As a band-aid fix, I have "gooped" the boot after shooting it full of grease. That stopped most of the leaking. Now I need to find the last few pin holes and get them plugged as well and hope it holds for a bit. I have also put my JKS disco's on all the way out. With those on-- the clearance is improved to where it barely touches.

This is a big problem for my CRD right now. I am thinking of taking the die grinder to the bottom of the strut as that is the only place it makes contact with the swaybars connected at full droop. It has settled a bit-- during the install it would push the boot out at full drop. What is the strap you are referring too?

I need a solution to this so I can justify spending the money/time to put a new boot on without having to worry about it ripping. Not being able to take the CRD on trips is getting annoying.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:19 pm

Pablo wrote:

Mine will touch at full drop. I tore the boot getting in on. As a band-aid fix, I have "gooped" the boot after shooting it full of grease. That stopped most of the leaking. Now I need to find the last few pin holes and get them plugged as well and hope it holds for a bit. I have also put my JKS disco's on all the way out. With those on-- the clearance is improved to where it barely touches.

This is a big problem for my CRD right now. I am thinking of taking the die grinder to the bottom of the strut as that is the only place it makes contact with the swaybars connected at full droop. It has settled a bit-- during the install it would push the boot out at full drop. What is the strap you are referring too?

I need a solution to this so I can justify spending the money/time to put a new boot on without having to worry about it ripping. Not being able to take the CRD on trips is getting annoying.

I would not grind(or apply any undue heat) to the strut,you could grind into the strut and ruin it,also to much heat can also be very bad for a strut.The strap they are referring to is a limiting strap,it hooks to the frame(or similer) and the LCA(or similer) and it a set length to limit downward travel of the suspension.

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

tjkj2002 wrote:

Pablo wrote:

Mine will touch at full drop. I tore the boot getting in on. As a band-aid fix, I have "gooped" the boot after shooting it full of grease. That stopped most of the leaking. Now I need to find the last few pin holes and get them plugged as well and hope it holds for a bit. I have also put my JKS disco's on all the way out. With those on-- the clearance is improved to where it barely touches.

This is a big problem for my CRD right now. I am thinking of taking the die grinder to the bottom of the strut as that is the only place it makes contact with the swaybars connected at full droop. It has settled a bit-- during the install it would push the boot out at full drop. What is the strap you are referring too?

I need a solution to this so I can justify spending the money/time to put a new boot on without having to worry about it ripping. Not being able to take the CRD on trips is getting annoying.

I would not grind(or apply any undue heat) to the strut,you could grind into the strut and ruin it,also to much heat can also be very bad for a strut.The strap they are referring to is a limiting strap,it hooks to the frame(or similer) and the LCA(or similer) and it a set length to limit downward travel of the suspension.

I will start my search for that then...

spencevans · **Posted:** Mon Jun 04, 2007 11:32 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Pablo wrote:

Mine will touch at full drop. I tore the boot getting in on. As a band-aid fix, I have "gooped" the boot after shooting it full of grease. That stopped most of the leaking. Now I need to find the last few pin holes and get them plugged as well and hope it holds for a bit. I have also put my JKS disco's on all the way out. With those on-- the clearance is improved to where it barely touches.

This is a big problem for my CRD right now. I am thinking of taking the die grinder to the bottom of the strut as that is the only place it makes contact with the swaybars connected at full droop. It has settled a bit-- during the install it would push the boot out at full drop. What is the strap you are referring too?

I need a solution to this so I can justify spending the money/time to put a new boot on without having to worry about it ripping. Not being able to take the CRD on trips is getting annoying.

I would not grind(or apply any undue heat) to the strut,you could grind into the strut and ruin it,also to much heat can also be very bad for a strut.The strap they are referring to is a limiting strap,it hooks to the frame(or similer) and the LCA(or similer) and it a set length to limit downward travel of the suspension.

Exact-o-mundo :!:

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

I talked to All J about my contact with the CV boot issue and they are working with me. Since the boot only touches the clevis by a little bit, and the clevis does not push up against the shaft, it appeared that this may be fixable without a limiting strap (by sanding the clevis and smoothing it out so it does not tear the boot when it drops down and touches it every once in a great while).

Some of the things they said to do are to check the alignment, which can cause rubbing, and to watch the Al's Uppers (perhaps they allow more droop than the CRD can handle?). Quinn is certain that a bad alignment can make it rub, but the Al's arms is just a theory.

If you have a CRD Frakenlift and Al's arms, can you verify if you get contact at full droop?
If you don't have the arms, but the lift-- do you get contact?

We agreed that since I tore the boot putting it on, it probably would not hurt to get in replaced and just take it easy for awhile and see how the new boot did. I also decided to get the alignment checked.

I had a mechanic replace the boot yesterday and he stated the alignment was ok. I drove home. Went outside this morning to sand the clevis down--- grease everywhere. Did not so much as go over a speed bump on the way home. I watched the mechanic put it on and it did not look like he tore it. I don't see it touching the boot when I turn the wheels either way to full lock. The upper A-arm does, however, touch the tire at full lock, which is a little disconcerting. Needless to say, I need someone in AZ who knows what their doing to align the thing and to see where the boot is torn now. I don't think it is aligned right for a lift. Yes it tracks straight but the tires seem ever so slightly cupped.

I looked and could not see where the tear in the new boot was. The grease was smeared all over where the boot attaches to the axle/shaft and I wonder if it is coming out from under the clamp (not on tight?). The other possibility is it is not hitting the clevis but the side of the strut itself, pinching it against the half shaft (which is what happened when I was trying to align the clevis in the first place, but I don't see how this contact can occur when assembled-- unless the strut flexes side to side when going down the road... and that would be bad, no? I am no longer sure if I can fix this with a limiting strap as I cannot even figure out how it is happenned this time. I did not unload the suspension on the way home.

1. Does anyone know of a good alignment shop in Phoenix AZ for lifted vehicles so I don't have to keep chasing my tail with this? I intend to have the mechanic who put it on look at it, but it would be nice to get another opinion from a 4x4 shop that will not snear at you when you show up in an IFS.

2. Does anyone have any other usefull advice on what is going on with this thing?

If I can't fix this soon, it is going bye-bye. I can't stand it stock (bottoming out on the engine support beam unless you go 5 mph) and I am not going to a smaller lift after seeing how this one rides and looks. It has sat for a month and I am getting a little frustrated having to take time off work to shuttle it around and every other weekend to work on it. Plus its darned hot outside-- 106 today.
(I am starting to look at XJ's... even FJ's... ugg).

spencevans · **Posted:** Sun Jun 17, 2007 12:42 am

This is what I reported to Heather over a month ago and she said this was news to her. So I was probably the first to encounter this issue. I knew I did not damage the boot on the installation. I was so careful.

I do not run Al's arms and I still have contact on the drivers side at full droop. I figure AllJ's will come up with a solution soon so I have not replaced the boot. No sense in fixing it if it's going to tear the first time I drive it. It seems to be an issue clear across the board, everyone is having this boot issue. It's fixable, just be patient, I am sure it's at the top of AllJ's to do list. They have a great reputation. I think that there ore two possible solutions to the problem; first, replace the bumpstop with a new larger bumpstop, second, add a limiting strap. My vote is the bumpstop. I have considered trying to extend the bumpstop. We'll see how it goes.

Frankenfever

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