Oh no, the thing I dread
I believe it’s another oil thread
Please, it’s kicking me in the head
I thought the oil threads were dead

I know you obsess about your oil
But the stupid threads are making my blood boil
You really are expending too much toil
Cause the Amsoil crowd is very loyal

What weight, what brand they scream
It really is a bad dream
I have not heard arguments ever so mean
The logic is often very lean

So, argue if you must
But remember not everyone has oil lust

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

Interesting observation.

So, if I were to run those 3 particular oils for 15,000 miles in my CRD and submitted an oil analysis for each, the oil analysis will come back indicating they are all providing a similar level of protection??????

Hells bells, I might as well save my $ then and buy the cheap stuff!

Would you be comfortable running those 3 particular oils in your CRD for 15,000 miles?

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08 GC CRD Overland
Provent

05 Liberty CRD Limited
Rocketchip Level 1, Provent

03 Jetta TDI Wgn 5 spd
Rocketchip Level 5 with upgraded: turbo, DD clutch, fuel delivery, intake and exhaust systems. Deletes: EGR cooler, EGR, Cat.



If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, thank a veteran.

I thought your user ID looked familiar.

Your the same guy from Fred's TDI club that used the same line over there about there being no difference between the oils. Didn't you used to take it one step further and tell everyone that using synthetic oil was waste of $ and you could get the same level of protection using regular oil, or was that a different clown?

_________________
08 GC CRD Overland
Provent

05 Liberty CRD Limited
Rocketchip Level 1, Provent

03 Jetta TDI Wgn 5 spd
Rocketchip Level 5 with upgraded: turbo, DD clutch, fuel delivery, intake and exhaust systems. Deletes: EGR cooler, EGR, Cat.



If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, thank a veteran.

I wouldn't be comfortable running ANY oil for 15K without an oil analysis to back it up. If that is what you are going for, go with the one that meets a CI-4+ rating and has a TBN of 12 or more. Do UOA's at a reasonable interval (3-4K), and go with the results.

No two diesels are the same. Only a UOA will tell you when to change the oil. Some here might get 15K or more while others won't. Even oil brands will fluctuate in performance in like engines.

I stated in my previous post, that unless you are looking for going to the max miles before oil change, just get a high quality synthetic at the best price. Yes, get the cheapest stuff you can get and do regular oil changes. By cheapest, I obviously mean the cheapest price. You still need to go with one of the better oils. There is a difference in quality regardless of opinions. Get the best quality at the best price. Simple economics. Even though I use and recommend Amsoil, unless you just want to spend the money or are wanting to go the full monty and do UOA's and such, any good synthetic will do the trick.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

Over on TDR and in Issue 57 of their magazine, there's an article where they did analysis of 21 different types of oils, basically to see what the difference was between CJ-4 and CI-4 rated oils, and what they actually had in them.

As far as cost effectiveness, the author mentioned that one of his friends, when it came time to change oil, just went to the auto parts store and picked up whatever brand of CI-4 rated oil was on sale, and that looking at the analysis results of the different oils, that was just as good a method as any for deciding what oil to use!!!

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

I ran the Series 3000 5W-30 for a bit and it showed a bit too much Aluminum in the UOA...top end wear. Not bad mind you but more than I wanted to see. With the AME 15W-40 and the ORM everything is working well...5,000 miles...spun on a new filter...topped off the oil from the oil removed in the old filter...and I feel comfortable running another 5,000 miles and retest. With the Fumoto Drain Valve it is pretty easy to drain.

The time tested arguement about no real difference in oils...it is true that for the most part you can use any good quailty oil changed frequently enuff and go 100,000 miles in todays cars/trucks/JEEPS...but not all oils/filters are created equal! There are differences and for some people they do make a difference. Synthetics flow better at all temperatures, do not break down as fast or as much, can go for longer drain intervals, ect than Dino Oils...just plain facts of life. The cost of Dino vs Synthetic is also a hottly debated topic. With longer drain interval possibilities the "gap" is very small. I like the fact that with Synthetics I am getting better protection and using less product (less waste to dispose of) than if I used Dino. Just remember any oil can damage your engine if the proper changing is ignored...the synthetic gives me a bit of buffer to forget.

_________________
Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

Good stuff, I'm saving that.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

But if you check the FSM, section 0 page 5, you'll find that 10-40W is called for in Export models unless it's below 5f then 5-40W

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

It's all about winter "w" flow rate. Just about all of the class 4 synthetics flow quite well down into the -40F or more range. A 5w40 class 4 will flow only a few degrees colder than a 15w40 class 4. Both are 40's and and have only moderate differences in lower pour point.

I have absolutely no problem with a 15w40 class 4 synthetic flowing well in most areas of the country in the dead of winter. I wouldn't feel so confident in a class 3 oil. Just look at the cold pour points.

Heck, if it is all about cold pour point and what "w" rating is the issue, then put on a oil pan heater pad and plug it in at night. It will keep things flowing nicely and does a pretty good job of warming ALL the engine than a block heater (heat rises, right?). Everyone uses pan heater pads in Alaska. I never had a problem with 15w40 conventional flowing at -70F in Alaska using an oil pan heating pad. The pad also uses less power than a block heater and eliminates any sediment buildup around the block heater unit. A pan heating pad is relatively inexpensive and will cure what ails ya regarding oil. I have one on my CRD, my New Holland tractor, and Semi. I have never had a hard start in any winter conditions.

If you want, you can also put the pad on a temperature controlled outlet so that it will only heat below a specific ambient temp.

Now... problem solved.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

so since I live in the South West , the 5W-40 should be fine, right? it doesn't get very cold here in Vegas in the winter, definitely no freezing temps...

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2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...

No problem. You could also get by quite nicely with 10w40 or 15w40 if you had a mind to. You are not in a situation where winter flow rate is an issue. The "40" part of the rating is the important one for you.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

I know that syn is the best to used because the turbo but is a ok to use Delo 15w-40 deno. I have a Dodge Sprinter 05 and it has turbo with a 5 cylinder and EGR valve. Engine is made by Mercedes, and from the first day I been using Delo. ?? could i use Delo on the CRD and if no why not.

Well I did it over the weekend, drained whatever the dealer had in the crankcase, spun off the Italian made Mopar filter, spun on the Mexican made Amsoil filter, dumped in the Amsoil 15W40 HDD Severe Service Diesel & Marine oil and away she goes.

_________________
08 GC CRD Overland
Provent

05 Liberty CRD Limited
Rocketchip Level 1, Provent

03 Jetta TDI Wgn 5 spd
Rocketchip Level 5 with upgraded: turbo, DD clutch, fuel delivery, intake and exhaust systems. Deletes: EGR cooler, EGR, Cat.



If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you're reading it in English, thank a veteran.

well I just changed my oil and air filter today went with the Amsoil 10W-40... we will see how she does.....

_________________
2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...