The CRD is back in the shop, Help with Diag = FIXED

Bovie · **Posted:** Sun Feb 03, 2008 4:52 pm

Update!!!

Trip's to Dealership:

1) Computer Update
2) "Nothing is wrong, just drove it hard" Couldn't duplicate this time
3) Found Coolant Sensor was bad and replaced (Note: This made it 80% better, but it's still there) (2cd Note: they did duplicate it multiple times)

I just took it in for time number 4. The jeep spent over 3/4th the month of January in the shop and now were into February.
I'm gonna give them this 4th time then I'm gonna look into the lemon law.

I haven't been so physically ill since the Hawks lost the Superbowl. There is no other car or truck that comes close to what the CRD offers but, I cannot keep going to the shop over and over and over again for the SAME problem that they cannot find let alone fix.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Feb 03, 2008 9:06 pm

Letting us know what mods you have done or tried on your CRD would help. Have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor and observing any effect on the symptoms? What if you just give the fuel primer a couple pumps before starting the engine? Have they replaced the EGR valve with a known working part? How about the FCV? Have they tried installing a new filter head? Install a lift pump and see if it changes. Have they monitored boost pressure and fuel pressure while driving during the multiple times they reproduced the symptoms? One of these values should be off when it happens. These guys need to get their hands dirtier.

Bovie · **Posted:** Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:27 pm

No mods so far. I've tried giving the primer pumps a few times before starting. Even tried bleeding air.
I haven't tried unplugging the MAF. They suggested that it might be the EGR but didn't replace it because there wasn't any codes. I've directed them a few times to the fuel filter head just because it feels like a fuel starvation problem to me.

It seems like they are attacking the problem in the wrong way to me. They have done a compression test and bench tested each injector. Maybe it's something simple. I would have started with replacing the fuel filter even though it's new it may be clogged.

This is taking way to long to diagnose, I want my CRD back or I want to stop making payments to ChryslerFinancial.

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:49 pm

Perhaps it is time to head up the freeway to the Dodge PU dealer. Or you could drive the 400 miles to Spokane and visit my dealer that has so far been good.

Bovie · **Posted:** Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:56 am

I've considered taking it to another dealer. Not sure it I would trust it to drive 400 miles.

If the local dealership can't fix it maybe I could convince them to sent it to another dealer.

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 05, 2008 4:38 pm

If you have the vehicle then there are a few things it could be:

*Turbo boost problem*
I would buy this due to the fact that you stated that if you let the vehicle idle for a few minutes then it is okay. Because the turbo is vacuum operated, any leak or other depreciation in vacuum will cause the turbo to not respond. If it isn't making boost then the shortage of air will cause it to misfire. Teh vacuum pump is gear driven off the crankshaft and is located at the very front of the engine on the driver side, down at the bottom. Behind the power steering pump there should be a pipe coming up at which point a rubber line is attached. This is the vacuum line - follow it everywhere to ensure that there are no leaks.

*Blown hose
Crack or split in hose could cause air leak and thus misfire from too much fuel. Check hoses and clamps.

*Malfunctioning/sticking throttle valve
I've had identical problems with my dyno setup when the shaft of the throttle plate becomes encrusted with oil deposits which, when heated become sticky and the valve doesn't move. When the engine is shut off, pull off the hose and verify that the valve is wide open. If so, unplug the Throttle Valve (Flow Control Valve in lingo used here) and the EGR valve (driver side, mounted to side of block) and drive vehicle until warm. If the problem goes away, drive to dealer and perform same test in front of them. Then ask for both comonents to be replaced. If it continues, EGR could be partially stuck open.

*Use DRB scan tool
If the dealer is willing to help you, ask to measure the following channels:
Rail pressure (fuel pressure)
Rail pressure/fuel pressure setpoint
Injection quantity
Mass air flow
Mass air flow setpoint
EGR duty cycle
Throttle valve duty cycle

If you can get issue to duplicate while driving with DRB, ask for a freeze frame snapshot while in the misfire. That information will be greatly beneficial in diagnosing the problem.

Bovie · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:56 pm

UPDATE!

So the dealership called last week and said I quote "We have our hands in the air, we don't know what is wrong with it". He said that called Chrysler explained the problem and they suggested putting fuel additive in, so they did and ofc it didn't make a lick of difference.

Anyway they gave up and called Chrysler again. Apparently Chrysler is sending a regional technician that should have shown up yesterday or today. I'm really hoping it's just something that the tech overlooked and a new set of eyes will find it. If it's something in the wiring they may never find the problem.

MrMopar, I'll take your suggestions to the dealer. They all seem like good ideas to me. The sticking throttle valve has been brought up a few times.

Thanks, I'll keep you guys posted.

P.S. As much as I love my old Mercedes I'm getting really tired of not having the big blue ox around especially in the snow and bad weather we have had the month or so.

manganos · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:15 pm

Sir, Welcome to my world. I can NOT go into specifics but please pontificate your Lemon Law in your state. ( I have signed a release from Chrysler not to discuss the particulars of my Jeep "issues")

forensic · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:56 am

I had a similar problem, Replace fuel filter element and haven't had a problem since. Its a cheap fix if it works. The filter was a Mopar, I replaced with a Wix from RockAuto.com
I have not had a problem since. before I kept tighting the filter and problem would go away for a week and return. Also I would turn off and restart and problem would disappear for a little bit.
Hope this helps

forensic · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:57 am

Make sure you put a coat of oil on the o-rings before installing new filter!

wolcott · **Joined:** Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:16 pm **Posts:** 108

I didn't see a place to vote on your survey, but I've replaced the fuel filter housing once. The problem was the usual--a leak at the fuel heater plug. The cure I used was to leave the fuel heater plug off the Chrysler unit and I added a Racor filter w/heater and a Kennedy lift pump upstream of the Chrysler filter. . The original fuel filter housing made it to 40,000 miles in Florida.

Bovie · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:24 pm

UPDATE:

Ok here is the deal. Chrysler thinks the one of the injectors is bad and is bleeding off fuel rail pressure. They are replacing all for injectors. I HOPE this will fix it. I want my CRD back. They said I might get it back tomorrow.

On the other hand I talked with the Service Manger about a buy back if the injectors didn't fix the problem. He is going to talk to Chrysler about that. I'm at my wits end if the injectors fix it I'll be happy but if they don't I'm done.

P.S. Does anyone know the cost of the injectors?

Bovie · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:15 am

Ok Guys!!!!!

I FINALLY picked up my jeep after they replaced the injectors. I've been driving it for 3 days now and no problems. I'm still edgy but another couple of weeks will make me feel ok that the problem is gone for good or at least until these brand new injectors start bleeding off fuel rail pressure.

Thanks for the tips guys.

The CRD is back in the shop, Help with Diag = FIXED

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