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 Post subject: Equilizer, Brakes and Break Away.
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:58 pm
Posts: 696
Location: Backwoods, ME
I knew a guy with a $20,000 bass boat. He was bummed when the boat passed him on the highway.
My firewood trailer rides great with the OME springs. I was pleasantly surprised.
We have a battery on the trailer for the brakes in case is gets loose, a state law here in ME.
The trailer wiring keeps the battery charged.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms


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 Post subject: Electric brakes
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:49 pm
Posts: 3553
Location: Aurora, IL
If you are dropping your boat into fresh water, you will want to ride your brakes for a few seconds to dry out the water. I would also coat all of the moving steel parts inside with anti-seize but not the drums. For some reason Cast Iron is more resistant to rusting than steel. I have seen cast iron pumps last for years around waste water that eats up carbon steel in a few months if not painted with epoxy paint.
Good trailer parts places like the one I used R&P Carriages who sell on eBay have the flanges you need to add brakes to your axle. The trick is to install the backing plate flange onto the backing plate. with the inner bearing inside the drum hub, slide the backing plate assembly into the drum and then adjust the shoes out so they are very slightly dragging on the drums. Put the assembly onto the axle stub, install the outer bearing. Tack weld the flange to the axle on both sides from the back. If you can weld the whole flange from the back side, do it. If not remove the drum and backing plate from the flange and weld the flange from the inside, paint it and assemble. If you can weld exhaust pipe, you can weld on the flanges.

I put on the biggest brakes that I could so that they will last longer and stop better. You will need to know your wheel size, bolt pattern, and axle size to get the right parts.

http://stores.ebay.com/R-and-P-Carriages-Trailer-Sales

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 3:31 am 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm
Posts: 679
Most of my boat use is saltwater, bays along the coast. Gotta be stainless/galvanized, and even then we usually get maybe 5 years of service out of drum brakes before they go kaput. I'm leaning towards discs for superior braking, but a lot of folks here end up warping their discs by not allowing them sufficient time to cool before dumping the boat in the water.

Was talking to a guy tonight who highly recommended these guys from Cabelas of all places:

Image

Only $145 each. Going to have to look into these.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Mopar engine, transmission, transfer case skids
245/70/16 Michelin Latitude X-Ice (winter)
235/75/16 Firestone Destination ATs (summer)
Thule roof rack, cargo box
V6 airbox mod
Flowmaster 50 2.5 inch muffler
Edge EZ module (set for fuel economy)
SEGR
TDIWagonGuy CCV filter
B99 (summer), B20 (winter)


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 Post subject: Supplier
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 8:31 am 
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Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 6:52 am
Posts: 3442
Location: Columbus, Ohio. USA
Here's a good supplier of trailer parts :lol:

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/

Joe

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Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)


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