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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:19 pm 
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Luisboost wrote:
OK, I'm gonna check this in the week, I'll let you know, thanks for the info.
Regards
Luis.





If you have never cleaned it before, it is wise to take a look at it. I cleaned mine first at 12k miles and it was GUMMED UP. since then, I checked it at 24k, and it was clean. I just checked it AGAIN AT 48k....still clean. I suspect this ULSD that we are now using has something to do with it staying clean. I do not have the EHM. It is still stock.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:23 am 
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BVCRD wrote:
Luisboost wrote:
OK, I'm gonna check this in the week, I'll let you know, thanks for the info.
Regards
Luis.





If you have never cleaned it before, it is wise to take a look at it. I cleaned mine first at 12k miles and it was GUMMED UP. since then, I checked it at 24k, and it was clean. I just checked it AGAIN AT 48k....still clean. I suspect this ULSD that we are now using has something to do with it staying clean. I do not have the EHM. It is still stock.


Partly could also be we've all (most anyhow) know where "full" is on the dip stick and are no longer filling it to the MAX :shock: Mine goes through the extra pretty quick :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:29 am 
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Yea, could be. Mine likes a level 1/4 inch below the high mark.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:26 pm 
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[size=18]OK, back again with the latest news. Fist of all, I stop the CRD and gave it to a friend that is a professional mechanic, that's because we continue with the intermittent power problem. We change the FUEL FILTER for a brand new, remember that I changed the MAP SENSOR. Then we gets out the Diesel Tank of the CRD and WASH AND CLEAN IT, it has a very dirt and ugly deposit of bugs????, and some glycerin (please I know I made Biodiesel, and it won't happen again, going to work with my washes BD, also I don't plan to use it for a while until I resolve this mistery), then he discover some electric cables that comes from the ECM to the transmission that were FRIED by the downpipe. He replaced it, then he discover some "jumps" of cables that comes from the transmission to the ECM, this were not corrected as a Factory CRD (I know Jeep dealers works the transmission in this car before I get it, with an old owner, maybe the reduction in power work??). My friend put ALL THE CABLES IN ORDER, AS FACTORY, then he discover another electric cables in the ECM that were broken and repaired it. ADJUST AGAIN THE HOSES OF THE TURBO with the intercooler that were leaking some air. And the most important thing we INSTALLED AN EXTERNAL LIFT PUMP (BOSCH) of about 4-7 pounds, connected to the wire of the Heat Sensor of the Fuel Filter (that by the way I removed from the fuel Filter). ONE BY ONE HE REMOVED EVERY SINGLE BAD CODE from the ECM, (it lights the ORD, because I disconnet that sensor to stop the EGR, after his work). He has the CRD for 2 days testing it, and the CRD some times (more than 50%) works GREAT, with the RPM running all the way to 4,000rpm (it never feels stronger than that, feeling like a sport car), then with any warning or situation, the CRD comes back again to the piggy power and didn't goes to more than 3,000 rpm feeling very slow with no apparent reason of what's going on..... ?????. When I take it frustrated to go to my home, we disconnect the battery to remove all the bad codes, and voila, I have the power again, all the way to 4,000 rpm all day, including the night when I use it, the next day when I started it to go to my work with no apparent reason, it feel piggy and slow again!!!!. The codes that my friend were reading the last time we tested, and then clean it, were P 1267 (Fuel Air metering), P 1854, P 009, P 0101 (MAF Range Perf), P 1263 (Fuel Metering), P 1261 (Fuel Metering). Only the Fuel Metering codes appear ramdonly after all the works).

In general, new MAP Sensor, Clean Tank, new Fuel Filter, new K/N Air Filter, new external Lift Pump (Bosch 4-7 Pounds), No air leaks from Turbo-Intercooler, Trans works Great, but don't change at 3,000 rpm in Full Throttle, New Petro Diesel with Cleaning additives. WHAT'S GETS WRONG??????, ANY HELP WOULD BE EXTREMELY APPRECIATE.
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Luis.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 7:04 pm 
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The P0101 is from the MAF being disconnected and will not cause the vehicle to limp. P1261, P1263, and P1267 are all glowplug codes (Diesel engines do not use fuel metering codes). I don't know what the P1854 code is and the P009 which you listed is incomplete. All P codes have to have four numbers. Possibly it is P0090-fuel Quantity Solenoid Open Circuit.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 8:02 pm 
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What's the meaning of "glowplug", and the other codes is P 0090 or P 0094, not sure what's my friend write. Does these codes mean anything???. Right now I'm going to run the CRD, putting a half bottle of "Sea Foam" in the oil (with the EGR connected) and the other half in the Diesel Tank, looking to clean internally both the Diesel and Oil. Thanks to write
Luis.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:39 pm 
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No se como las llaman en Boriqualandia, pero segun el lugar donde vive los golwplugs son candelas, bombillas o bujías de incandescencia. No hay un codigo de P0094 en el CRD pero hay P009A-INTAKE AIR TEMP/ AMBIENT AIR TEMP PLAUSIBILITY. Segun lo que has descrito todavia me parece como un filtro tapado. Si cambiaste el filtro y arranco el motor antes de limpiar el tanque, probablemente chupaste mas glicerina al filtro, o tambien si no limpiaste las linias desde el tanque al filtro. Si hiceste eso, te puedo asegurar que tambien esta tapado el filtro nuevo. Yo hice eso una vez que no limpie bien mi biodiesel y se separo la glicerina. La glicerina satura el papel del filtro y causa un P0093, que es una fuga de aire segun la computadora pero en realidad es casi siempre un filtro tapado. Estas seguro que eso no fue el codigo que hecho? Anyway, si estabas ajustando los alambres, probablemente causo un corto el el circuito de los glowplugs.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 2:01 pm 
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Hi "NurseCosmo"., well the situation still "INTERMITTENT" after ride my CRD yesterday in the night and today in the morning for already 100 miles, I understand what you mean about the Filter, but my situation (last night and today for example) is that in one stop at Red Light the CRD, launch like an sport car, running all the way to 4,000 rpm, then in the next stop of Red Light, again pushing Full Throttle, and it don't goes above 3,000 rpm. I thought that if I have a dirt FFilter, well maybe it gets hard to acelerate from let see, 3,500 rpm or 2,500 rpm, etc, for example, but always the problem is in the 3,000 rpm mark, and is intermittent, some time from minute to minute, you can hear additionally the change in the sound of the engine when it gets right (louder) or wrong. Other thing is that when the CRD goes above 3,000 rpm, in route to the 4,000 rpm, it arrive fast and powerful without hesitation.

Its like maybe some electric ground??, bad sensor???, ECM??, definitively for me is an electric problem right now (remember also I have a new external lift pump installed trying to correct this situation). The CRD beside that, star smootly, don't hesitate in the running, and overall is in very good condition. Another thing that I forget to mention is that I made modifications in the exhaust pipe to be less restrictive to the CRD.
ANY OPINION WOULD BE HAPPY ACCEPTED.
LUIS.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 2:19 pm 
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Like I posted Luis, It still sounds like the fuel filter. A partially plugged filter (such as with glycerin saturation) will give EXACTLY those symptoms. If fuel can still get through the filter but causes enough restriction to set the fault code the computer will make it go in and out of limp mode. I bought a new filter this afternoon because I've been experiencing the same thing for the past week. It happens to me from time to time when I don't filter my fuel enough. I usually carry a spare filter with me for this purpose but have been waiting for Napa's spring half price filter sale at the end of the month. I can tell when the filter needs to be changed because of worsening intermittent limp modes occurring under moderate to full acceleration.

Did you run dirty fuel through the new filter that you just installed before cleaning the tank? Did you clear the glycerin out of the fuel lines? I'm not saying that your problems are positively related to the filter but it sure sounds like they are.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 3:57 pm 
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Ok "NurseCosmo" I have another brand new FFilter, (I bought a pair by ebay, good deals), I'm going to change again, I'll let you know.
Regards
Luis.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:25 pm 
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NOPE, THIS DIDN'T CORRECT THE PROBLEM, INCLUSIVE GETS WORSE, LESS ACCELERATION, THE SAME 3,000RPM, AT LEAST NOW I HAVE LITTLE CONSISTENCE, NEVER GOES TO THE 4,000 RPM AND ALWAYS FEEL PIGGIER. I CHECKED ALL THE CONNECTIONS, ALL LOOKS FINE, THE LIFT TANK THAT I INSTALLED WORKING ALSO. START TO GET FRUSTRATED.....
LUIS.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:12 pm 
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Well I'm sure sorry that your problem wasn't a simple filter, but it had to be eliminated as the most likely cause based on symptoms. Your next priority will have to be identifying for sure which P-codes are triggering the CEL. You will have to either take it to someone with a good scanner or purchase one which will read it.

I have found the P1854 which you listed earlier. It is "Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate 'C' Circuit Failure". I don't know if this one will cause a limp mode or not but that would be my starting point.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:19 pm 
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Luisboost wrote:
we INSTALLED AN EXTERNAL LIFT PUMP (BOSCH) of about 4-7 pounds, connected to the wire of the Heat Sensor of the Fuel Filter (that by the way I removed from the fuel Filter).


One other thing to consider is that if you did indeed draw power from the heat sensor on the filter head, you are altering the temperature which the computer senses. If the computer senses that the fuel is too hot it will lower the fueling and even put the vehicle into limp mode. You need to reconnect the heat sensor and draw the lift pump power from the lift pump circuit.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 4:32 pm 
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Hi "NurseCosmo", you're right about the connection of the external pump, I was thinking about it before, the doubt that I have is that I heard it working, but you're right, maybe is sending some signal to the ECM that start the Limp mode. The other problem (Transmission) was eliminated when we discover some wires broken by the downpipe. The code was eliminated after that. I'll let you know, thanks for write.
Luis.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 3:51 pm 
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Back again to the forum, OK, the situation is that the external pump installed take energy directly from the battery, just take the signal from the plug of the Heat of the FFilter that is disconnected but functional. I heard it working, although the CRD is running at limp mode. Today I bought an scanner that read 2 codes (only), the P 0102 (normal because I run the CRD in ORM, the sensor disconnected) and the P 1190, this is a little strange, (it reads "inlet air pressure sensor circuit high"), but the thing is that I installed a brand new MAP Sensor to the CRD, the question is why this CODE??, have anything to do with the LIMP mode??. What I need to check in order to eliminate this malfunction code??.
Thanks for your answers
Luis.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 3:53 pm 
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I forgot to mention that the limp mode still ramdonly, some times you feel the CRD strong and some time very weak, all in the same running. Maybe the ECM is damaged??.
Luis.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:18 pm 
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There's a sensor on the side of the Air box - JL Rockies had problems with that
(I'm not sure of the name - but that sounds right)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 7:29 pm 
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In the side of the airbox??, the MAF sensor is over, do you know a what side??, or the name??
Luis.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:00 pm 
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Luisboost wrote:
In the side of the airbox??, the MAF sensor is over, do you know a what side??, or the name??
Luis.


Luis you do not have to go so far; Your problem is the vacumm hose that connect from the Turbo to the vaccumm where that small filter is, that hose is leaking install a regular vaccum hose and take for an spin. I had that problem and it drove me insane. check it out.


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 Post subject: GAME OVER????
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 3:49 pm 
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ATXKJ wrote:
There's a sensor on the side of the Air box - JL Rockies had problems with that
(I'm not sure of the name - but that sounds right)



GAME OVER?????, today eliminating possibilities I check the vacuum hoses, all fine, then I check the sensor that is in the side of the case of the Air Filter, it looks fine, and I run the CRD with this sensor disconnected but the problem still in the way. Then after I installed it again, VOILA!!!! the CRD all the way is running strong, at least until now, with more than 25 Full Throttle passes in the afternoon. It appear that this sensor didn't have a good contact, and with the installation again I resolve the problem, GO FIGURE... I'll let you know if finally this resolve the problem,
Regards
Luis.


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